rebuilding injectors and pump to assess an old engine

[LaneRover]

Patina is nice but I would definitely protect the bulkhead as that is steel.

Check the front breakfast (radiator support bulkhead) as that is steel too. Pay attention to the bottom edge.

Once you get it going drive, see what you do and don't like about the bumps, scrapes and patina.

I agree to start doing stuff yourself. Ask the mechanic if you can work alongside him. I knew a Rover guy in Maine who would sometimes work on the Rovers that he had sold people. He would usually have them watch a bit and usually they said, "Thats it? Thats how you do that!?!?" and soon they were doing their own work

Best of luck and have fun!

Brent

[SafeAirOne]

Generally, smokiness= pump timing is retarded; Excessive clacking when you give it some throttle= pump timing is overly-advanced. Somewhere in between= perfection.

[leafsprung]

The cash "value" of the patina is only there if you find someone else willing to pay for something that looks like crap. What do you think the chances of that are?

Chances are good, I get far more people asking for original paint trucks than repainted ones. Id take a care worn original over shiney paint any day. Paint has no purpose exept to keep rust at bay on things you cant galvanize.

show the rover some respect, and make it pretty again.

Best way to show respect is to maintain it and use it as intended. Making it pretty diminishes its utility tenfold.

This truck really does have nice patina from the doors back, the zinc chromate looks great. The front is pretty crusty though. Keep your eyes peeled for matching panels while you tackle the mechanical aspects. If you can make it presentable without having to spend the time and $$ on a full repaint do it.

[ignotus]

learning

I started learning how to wrench on them in 1974 when I bought a new 73, 88. I drove it home the 30 miles from the dealer. When I got up in the morning there was a BIG puddle of oil under it. I called em up, they said drive it over we'll fix it. I knew enough not to do that. I looked underneath and found the oil filter cannister was loose. A quick bicycle ride to the local Grand Auto store and a new socket set later I tightened it up. Next I bought the shop manual and never looked back. I knew nothing about cars before then. It was my first car.

gene

[kwd509]

this is helpful....and helps me thinks about the next stages.

The range of answers and opinions is really quite helpful. I began the 'trip' of reclaiming the rover with a very narrow perspective. I was securing a long abandoned family relic, & on the heels of my mother's passing. I was focused on just getting-to Tennessee, assessing the vehicle and getting it back to VT.

It needs a lot of work but has potential. I'm just dealing now with the reality that a project car is 'a project'. In the immediate future I need to find accommodations for the truck, near my home and develop a plan for addressing the multiple needs.


As folks have been so generous in advising, I'm going to pose a couple of questions:
I.-How does one establish a sequence? I need to move to address a couple small areas on the bulkhead and figure that thIS requires some dismantling and that in turn allows me to sequence the project in a couple of ways.

It has recently occurred to me that rather than going right after critical systems I could focus initially on some things that are easier, and allow me to gain some confidence and skills.

acouple of options:
1-the fuel system is pretty much restored, except for the fuel tank and associated local plumbing. maybe that's a logical place to start.
2- The exhaust seems intact about 2/3 through. The last section of the pipe and muffler are gone. is this good for a beginner?

I figure that even though brakes, clutch etc are critical, they can wait a bit.
Thoughts? Suggested alternatives for sequencing?

II. It has recently been suggested that more is less. That cosmetic work take a lower priority than mechanical and anticorrosion efforts. Makes sense. So my anti-corrosion question: if the limited rust on the bulkhead can be easily corrected and rust is mild elsewhere. To what extent do I want to address surface rust, such as on radiator support radiator bulkhead and the chassis? (by painting). if a mechanic feels a the car is 'original', does that mean I should approaching the intact frame and breakfast differently? - and consider not stripping and painting.


III.
The bulkhead needs two repairs, 1-A small hole in the floor below the accelerator (left hand drive); and, a broken weld on the driver side door post (as will be required for bulkhead/footwell repair). Can these both be done by a skilled welder who is a non-rover guy?
thoughts.
Thanks again.

[ignotus]

sequencing

Jay,

Alot of how you schedule your work depends on your goals. Things such as I want to drive it NOW! means you go after critical systems, such as brakes, steering, motor.
I want to drive it in 2011 summer! means you can take the time and do things as your interest and skills come along.
Is money a factor? do you want to get into a repair only to have to wait a month or more to order parts?
Some folks go the restoration route by stripping it down to the frame and refurbushing everything.

As far as the patina question; I say make it look like what you want, If you like the patina keep it, if not change it.
Some things can be done at the same time, say you want to repair the bulkhead, fit new(or rebuild) the clutch n brake master cylinders. Then take off the front wings and the M/C's plus the heater system. Repair the bulkhead and insulate(dynamat?) reinstall the heater and M/C's. If you painted the bulkhead are you going to paint the wings at the same time? After all they are off and you might as well do the radiator support panel....
See what I mean, some planning and having materials onhand can make it an easier job. Instead of pulling the wings to repair the bulkhead then having to do it over again to remove the M/C's and heater. And a third time to paint(if you want).

gene

[kwd509]

between budgetary constraints and coming cold weather and road salt..... there is no rush to drive it now.... so I can afford to move slowly.

If I lean toward maintaining 'genuineness' but will need to do minor repair on bulkhead. Which raises the question of what, if anything to do to the chassis, while it is exposed (partially). Are there only two options (to paint or not to paint- that is the question)?