U Joint replacement

[Cutter]

I just got in a pair of U joints for my rear driveshaft on my SIII 109. I need to pull the shaft and replace the current ones as they've started to make some noise and I noticed some of the rubber seals are torn. Any words of wisdom on this job before I jump in?

My friend and former rover owner told me that parabolics lead to this condition due to the raised height changing the shaft angle. Is there something that can be done to alleviate this other than going back to stock, or is this going to happen again eventually?

Hoping that whatever failure in the u joints isn't damaging the shaft at all as they aren't easy to come by for a 2.6 powered rig

[SafeAirOne]

Well, you can make sure that you use quality u-joints with grease (zerk) fittings and keep them lubricated. Avoid ones without the zerk fittings.

[Cutter]

I bought the genuine part ones from our host, assuming they would be the best. Is this something I can do in an hour or two based on past experience? I was hoping to swap them out in the morning before a trip. It seems relatively straight forward, but I've done enough on my truck to know quick jobs can eat up days some how...

[Terrys]

I tend to doubt going to parabolics resulted in the UJ's demise.
An Hr is plenty of time IF you have a good U joint tool (fancy C clamp, basically) Long driveshafts are tricky to do by yourself if you're doing it the old, sockets and bench vise method. Sometimes it's nice to have a helper just holding up the other end.
One suggestion, take the zerk out while you're assembling it, so moving the yoke back and forth doesn't pull needles out of position from the vacuum.

[Cutter]

Ahh special tools! Well i wont be using that... I was thinking of dropping the whole shaft and doing it on a bench. Will be certain to chock the wheels.

[stomper]

Took me 4 hours to replace one U-joint. Getting the drive shaft out was the easy part, but the prior owner didn't know that you could grease the u-joints, and they were siezed into the yokes.

Good luck, and pray to the rover Gods that it pops together easily.

[thixon]

If they're seized, then put the smoke wrench to 'em. You're tossing the old ones, so heating wont matter.

If you're going the socket/vice/hammer method and its your first time, you won't finish in an hour. You'll also be good an ticked off by the time your done if you hurry through it.

I think your buddy is referring to switching springs on the same u-joints you were using with the old springs.

[TeriAnn]

I just got in a pair of U joints for my rear driveshaft on my SIII 109. I need to pull the shaft and replace the current ones as they've started to make some noise and I noticed some of the rubber seals are torn. Any words of wisdom on this job before I jump in?

A few words:

1. U joints are considered to be consumable items. They wear out and need replacing on occasion. They are something you check for wear every so often & replace when they are no longer tight.

2. If you don't replace U joints fairly frequently and have a press they can be a bitch to remove. Some drop right out and some you fight for hours as you renew your cuss word vocabulary. However this is something automotive machine shops can do quickly and easily for not much money. If you decide to do the job yourself and decide to take the end off the slip joint, mark both sides of the slip joint so the yolk orientation remains the same when you reassemble it. Also when you bolt the shaft back into the truck, recheck the tightness on the bolts after a few hours of driving (maybe the following weekend) just to verify that the bolts are tight.

After doing a few I decided that this is a job I don't do often enough to maintain proficiency so I farm it out to a local automotive machine shop. I make an appointment, drop the shaft off, do some shopping and pick the shaft with the new U joints up on the way home.

3. There is nothing special about Genuine LR U joints. The factory buys them from a manufacturer who puts the U joints in a LR package instead of their own brand box. There are multiple good brands out there and a full service auto parts store with a automotive machine shop out back usually carries high quality U joints. Just ask for the best brand they carry and make sure it is a greasable type.

4. The Land Rover factory recommends that Series U joints and tie rod ends be greased every 4,000 miles. It is also a good idea to regrease the joints after a water crossing just to chase any water out that seeped into the joints. Do the maintenance and you will maximize U joint life. Don't forget some grease on the slip joint but don't over pack it.

[thixon]

T/A brought up a good point here, that we all sometimes forget. Sometimes it just not worth doing on your own. I seem to forget that one a lot.

A shop will probably charge you less than $50 to replace both.

[I Leak Oil]

Sometimes changing the shaft angle will hasten the demise of an already worn or wearing U-Joint. The needles wear in the same place all the time, by changing the shaft angle you can change the wear pattern, causing them to fail quicker. The parabolics themselves aren't necessarily harmful. Afterall you're only lifting the truck an inch or so (if I remember right it's about 2 1/2 degree change on an 88"). An inch of lift over the length of the shaft doesn't translate into such an acute angle that would be cause for concern.
As others have said, get quality joints and grease them regularly. Bringing it to a shop is an option but if you've never changed one you should learn incase you need to someday. There's nothing wrong with expanding your skill set!

[Cutter]

Well upon learning the schedule of my 8 month old (in a different vehicle) required a prompt departure and return time I decided to tempt fate and make the 2 hr highway rnd trip without replacing them. Definitely getting some feeling from the back end upon our return. My wife who was driving behind me said my back right tire was slightly wobbling, which I could feel above a certain speed (can't say what, speedo doesn't work). This leads me to believe that the wheel bearing is going too. Wee! Just got the truck back from 10 months in the shop, glad to see there's plenty left for me to tend to....

Back to the U joint, I'm going to try my hand at it now, I'll probably tackle that, and then the wheel bearings if that is what it ends up being, I suppose the tire could be mounted off or imbalanced but I doubt it, I don't think its been off since I got the truck and it was fine before.

[Cutter]

I think your buddy is referring to switching springs on the same u-joints you were using with the old springs.

I think this is exactly what he meant and is the case, the PO put the springs on and probably didn't swap out the u joints.

[LR Max]

First try to do it yourself. Best way is with a vice and a couple of sockets. Use the sockets to push around the caps once you've removed the C-clips.

Watch out, if the thing doesn't budge, STOP. You WILL break the vice!!! Yes, I've been present when this happens. The people at Advance Auto get really upset with you when you break their vice.

So your u-joints are in there good. Find a driveshaft shop and have them replace it. Having the driveshaft shop do the work is cheaper than replacing a broken vice...and your work gets done. Also get them to balance said driveshaft while they are at it.

[I Leak Oil]

Wow Max, must have been one wimpy vice! If it's that stuck you can put you oversize socket, open end up, on the ground or other solid surface, put the drive shaft yoke over it so the cap will fall into it, and give the top cap a quick burst with the air hammer. The quick shock load should be enough to break the rust bond free.

[LR Max]

Wow Max, must have been one wimpy vice! If it's that stuck you can put you oversize socket, open end up, on the ground or other solid surface, put the drive shaft yoke over it so the cap will fall into it, and give the top cap a quick burst with the air hammer. The quick shock load should be enough to break the rust bond free.

Actually I was assisting a u-joint replacement for the front axle out of an old bronco. Brother, they did not want to move!!! The guy I was with decided we needed to put a breaker bar on the vice handle. Yes...something broke. The casting on the vice!!

The people at Advance auto told us to leave, except they used many discouraging words. Many which I shouldn't repeat here.

Shop down the road said they would replace both for $35. Price was right .

So that is why I say if you can't get it done, then forget it. Take it to a shop and have them do it. No reason to destroy your own equipment...or get banned from the auto parts store.