Clutch is Out - Help!

[I Leak Oil]

I think in the series hydraulic clutch system you're looking to move volume and quickly, which is why they use the larger pipe. The clutch throw is much longer than that of a brake system.

[Terrys]

I think in the series hydraulic clutch system you're looking to move volume and quickly, which is why they use the larger pipe. The clutch throw is much longer than that of a brake system.

Right, but the throw of the clutch MC is about equal to the throw of the slave. The point I was making is that the length (not the diameter) of the tubing from the MC to the slave is irrelavant. If the MC forces .62 cubic inches of fluid into the tubing, then the same amount is going to come out the other end, into the slave. (Assuming the flex line is in good shape and not expanding.)

[ignotus]

M/c access

Tony,

This is the way I've done it. I ahve seen the piano hinge method and while I will admit it looks cleaner the things I don't like are; You have to remove the bonnet to open----the hinge protrudes when closed and hurts my elbows when leaning on it----the flap is kinda in the way sitting on the wing.
With mine I can remove the flap with the bonnet open, adjust my elbow to miss the bolt head---put the removed flap out of the way and use it to hold parts.
The main thing I need for mine is thick aluminum to hold the treads for the bolt. I used C channel on this because that is what I had. It is easier to cut the panel when mounted on the body, and there will be a little edge under the fold where the 2 peices bolt together. Cut it as big as you can as that makes it easier to work on the pedal adjustment. Just remember the mud splash panel under the wing.

gene

[amcordo]

I replaced the SC and the lower hose. I still can't bleed out the bubbles. Guess all that's left is to replace the MC. Again, it's not leaking - has anyone else had an issue of air getting into the pipes from the MC without it leaking?

[artpeck]

Sounds like the MC. Just to make sure however (and sorry for stating what is obvious) you did make sure you kept the reservoir on the MC full while you were bleeding? On mine at least the fluid capacity is very small so easy to suck air in during bleeding unless you stay on it and keep refilling.

[albersj51]

On a non-rover i own, i found that when i kept the cutch pushed in id lose pressure, but no leaks. It was the MC letting a small amount of air in but no fluid out

[Terrys]

How are you bleeding the system? There's 3 ways;
1)Pump it up, hold the pedal, open and shut bleeder.
2) Vacuum bleed using HandiVac.
3) Gravity bleed. Fill reservoir, open bleed screw, let it drip till solid fluid, shut bleed screw.

For a clutch, 3 is the easiest, and best method.

[amcordo]

How are you bleeding the system? There's 3 ways;
1)Pump it up, hold the pedal, open and shut bleeder.
2) Vacuum bleed using HandiVac.
3) Gravity bleed. Fill reservoir, open bleed screw, let it drip till solid fluid, shut bleed screw.

For a clutch, 3 is the easiest, and best method.

Thanks all for the feedback!

I've always done the Open the screw, pump, close the screw bleed. It worked fine with the last SC. So my bleeding method shouldn't be the issue (thanks for asking though; it's the simplest things that usually get you). Oh well. Good time as any to replace all the pipes and cylinders.

[amcordo]

Sounds like the MC. Just to make sure however (and sorry for stating what is obvious) you did make sure you kept the reservoir on the MC full while you were bleeding? On mine at least the fluid capacity is very small so easy to suck air in during bleeding unless you stay on it and keep refilling.

Ha. Thanks for the obvious - it usually is the simplest things that get you. But not this time. I made sure to keep it full.

[artpeck]

I am wary of passing things like that along at the risk of offending but since we have learned the hard way I figured I would. Thanks for not taking offense.

[amcordo]

Gotta love my truck. Random parts. So I replace the SC with the same model SC that was in it. It's from a 2a. I also replaced the clutch MC - which is from an S3. Well I purchased two flexi-lines, both different sizes (one longer and one shorter) and it turns out both ALSO have different sized ends on them.

Well, here's the issue: The clutch SC has a smaller thread input from the flexline than the steel pipe coming from the MC. In short, I either need an adapter on one end, or a custom flexi-line with two different sized ends (smaller diameter on the SC side, larger on the MC pipe side).

First: anyone know of what the sizes of the ends might be? The smaller flexline says 1/8 on the hose, and the larger says 3/16 on the hose.
Second: where would I get either the adapter or a custom flexline?

The old flex line looks in bad shape, but it has the two different sizes. Is that in any way normal?


ANOTHER OPTION?
I also have an S3 SC laying around. Any reason that could not be used if my clutch is an S2/a model? That would make this an easier swap.

[KevinNY]

Do you have the adaptor that connects the MC to steel line.

[amcordo]

Do you have the adaptor that connects the MC to steel line.

Yes. It's currently doing a good job of adapting the MC to the steel line. I take it one of those would work?

[KevinNY]

IIRC there is no adaptor on the SC and no reason why a replacement should need one? Maybe some pictures would help to see what you are dealing with.

EDIT: It seems you have quite an assortment of parts on your truck which is making this more difficult than it should be. Maybe it's back in thread somewhere, but what master and slave cylinder do you in fact have on your series 3?

[artpeck]

When I replaced mine (73 S3 88) I had to remove the reducer from the old master cylinder to connect the steel pipe to the new. On the slave which was sourced from hosts it was a direct replacement and exactly fit. Not sure why you ended up with this disconnect although maybe it is using a s2 replacement part.