several issues

[disco2hse]

Thanks for the info everyone. Rented a compression tester, which turned out to be broken (get what you pay for = free). Ill get another and try again.

Plugs looked ok, but smelled like gas...so in assuming its running rich.

As for billowing smoke from the exhaust, no. There is some blue, but it wasn't heavy and it seems to go away when you rev the engine. Im thinking blow-by from the valves, but we'll see what the compression test says.

Thanks again for the input.

J

Mostly sounds pretty normal to me

[albersj51]

Mostly sounds pretty normal to me

don't tell me that!

The dieseling doesn't bother me as, like you all stated, that's likely a timing thing. The purcolating noise does. We shall see. taking her down to the frame soon so id like get some drive time before her long hibernation.

[shock]

You would only have an indication of an engine `dieseling' if there were traces of fuel in the oil in the crankcase.

Do we have a difference of definition for the term 'dieseling'? I mean it as engine run-on after shutting it off (see the first link I posted) and it's usually related to spark timing.

[disco2hse]

Do we have a difference of definition for the term 'dieseling'? I mean it as engine run-on after shutting it off (see the first link I posted) and it's usually related to spark timing.

Probably. This is the context in which I have always understood the term:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/95574-diesel-oil.html

In particular:

The motor can run out of control on its own diesel fumes from the sump if it is dieseling the oil.
Usually results in the destruction of the motor.

But this thread offers much the same advice as here and some more insight:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/90098-pre-ignition-its-solutions.html

[albersj51]

In my case, I mean it doesnt shut off entirely when I turn the key off. In other words, it will acts like its turning off and then youll get the continued detonation for a few seconds before its finally done. I agree this is likely a timing issue. I have to catch a plane for Iowa in the morning, so I didnt get to replace the compression tester. When I get back on Friday I'll try it again. If the compression test comes back with something sub optimal (dead cylinder, burned valve, bad rings, etc), then timing is the least of my worries. As Disco has mentioned, I think getting the compression numbers is a good starting point.

Thanks again guys! I'll get you all the compression numbers when I get back from Corn Country!

J

[SafeAirOne]

Honestly...a compression tester is $35 and a vacuum tester is $25. They'll tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your carburetted petrol engine (and some things you didn't want to know too).

[albersj51]

Honestly...a compression tester is $35 and a vacuum tester is $25. They'll tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your carburetted petrol engine (and some things you didn't want to know too).

I know, i know...im cheap!

[Tim Smith]

Probably. This is the context in which I have always understood the term:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/95574-diesel-oil.html

In particular:

LandyAndy[/B]]The motor can run out of control on its own diesel fumes from the sump if it is dieseling the oil.
Usually results in the destruction of the motor.

But this thread offers much the same advice as here and some more insight:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...solutions.html

I think we call that condition a runaway diesel. If you google long enough you will find some hysterical and terrifying write ups from people who have experienced it.

As if google video was trying to say something, this is the first video that comes up.


Why does it have to be a defender in the first video?

[disco2hse]

Yeah I remember that one. It stopped somewhat dramatically not long after that. Great example, in Oz I think. TD5 90. The TD5 was prone to dieseling but the issues have mostly been resolved, however being the owner of a TD5 that is certainly one of those things one must keep in mind.

As I said previously, from what I have known dieseling usually means the engine is rooted

[albersj51]

Yeah I remember that one. It stopped somewhat dramatically not long after that. Great example, in Oz I think. TD5 90. The TD5 was prone to dieseling but the issues have mostly been resolved, however being the owner of a TD5 that is certainly one of those things one must keep in mind.

As I said previously, from what I have known dieseling usually means the engine is rooted

Im not familiar with the term "rooted". Would you enlighten me?

[SafeAirOne]

Im not familiar with the term "rooted". Would you enlighten me?

The same as "knackered" (or "nackered")

Probably explained somewhere earlier, but dieseling in the gasolie engine context = continuing to chug on its own after the ignition is switched off. If the conditions are just right, the engine can even run backwards when dieseling.

The cure for this is often a simple tune-up.

[disco2hse]

Yup. I mentioned that I had understood a different context and that does not apply in this case.

From http://www.chemistry.co.nz/kiwi.htm

root: to have [carnal relations -- the naughty word inspector doesn't like old latin words it seems]. A warning to folk from the USA! - A female visitor from the US has this to say... My first time in NZ I made the unfortunate mistake of listing off my hobbies to a family that had me over for tea.... among my hobbies? "I like to root for the football team!" (one of the boys said, "What, the WHOLE team??") Credit for this listing is on the page - but I'm not saying where!

When something is rooted it is another way saying another word that ends with ``ed'' and has the same meaning. In much the same way that someone might want to use the `John' (but I'm sure he might object ).

[albersj51]

Ok, did a compression test and every cylinder jumped right to 105 psi. Obviously that's low, but it seems odd to be low on all cylinders. Perhaps it needs a valve adjustment? I did an adjustment a couple months ago, but since then have installed a new exhaust
manifold, coil, pertronix. I also used some seafoam to clean the top end. Perhaps the seafoam/oil change removed some build up around the valves and now i need to readjust them. Just a theory, and am looking for any other ideas.

Thanks for everything guys!

J

[disco2hse]

Compressions are not outside what is operationally acceptable for an older engine. That they are consistent is a very good sign and that you should not go messing with head gaskets and the like.

When I put a Pertronix module in mine the spark was advanced and needed the timing set for it (the module sits a few degrees away from the previous ignition system I had - which was Mallory, I have a Mallory Unilite dizzy).

So getting back again. The sloshing is probably nothing to worry about unless you hear it on the ground

Do the timing. Rebuild the carby (won't hurt and is not expensive). Unless the tappets are making a racket I wouldn't bother with the valves. Blow by on an older engine is normal and will only be fixed (in the short term) with a rebore, new valves and guides.... So - don't worry about it.

Enjoy the old girl fer what she is. You know that in the future you will need an engine rebuild, but not yet

[albersj51]

Thanks, Alan!

I'll mess with the timing some more. As for rebuilding the Weber i may look at a Rochester or Holley to replace it.