Heated Windscreens

[Pete]

Has anyone installed a set of heated windscreens on their series trucks? I just pulled out my old glass for a set of heated windscreens and was hoping to see some pictures of a completed set with wiring etc.

Pete

[disco2hse]

Search is your friend for info:

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3906&highlight=heated+windscreen

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7300&highlight=heated+windscreen

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8299&highlight=heated+windscreen

[Bertha]

Search is your friend for info:

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3906&highlight=heated+windscreen

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7300&highlight=heated+windscreen

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/sh...ted+windscreen

None of the threads above answers the original posters question of wanting to see a completed set with wiring

[greenmeanie]

What are you wanting in the way of a wiring diagram? They are comparitively high draw so treat them like adding relays for your headlights. If you need a diagram for that then run a search for headlight relays and I'm pretty sure you'll find a thread with that info.

Each side operates independantly so install a switch and relay for each windscreen. As your harness is most likely of unknown/questionable condition run a large gauge wire for a dedicated power feed to the battery. Most importantly fuse all circuits. IIRC 20A fuses should work but if in doubt start low amp and work your way up until you find a rating that doesn't blow in normal use.

If you want timers or any such fancy thing then your on your own with the design of your circuit based on what parts you use.

[mongoswede]

I have a set in my 109 project. They have 2 wires coming out...power and ground. Wire them into a relay and a switch. Be sure to fuse the switch or switches (if wired independantly) and fuse the relay/s. The circuit is pretty straight forward if you have some basic DC electrical knowledge. I'd pull the power from a switch block that is energized when the key is turned on.

[I Leak Oil]

Similar thread started here as well:

http://gunsandrovers.yuku.com/topic/6094

[siiirhd88]

You don't want to run the main relay power thru the ignition switch due to the amp load of the screens. The ignition switch contacts are weak enough.... Run the relay actuation power from the ignition 'on' side of the switch, off of the white (unfused) side thru a fuse, or from the green (fused) side of the fuse box. Run the main screen relay power from the brown (always powered) side of the fusebox or starter solenoid. This way only the small relay actuation power is going thru the ignition switch.

Bob

[mongoswede]

You don't want to run the main relay power thru the ignition switch due to the amp load of the screens. The ignition switch contacts are weak enough.... Run the relay actuation power from the ignition 'on' side of the switch, off of the white (unfused) side thru a fuse, or from the green (fused) side of the fuse box. Run the main screen relay power from the brown (always powered) side of the fusebox or starter solenoid. This way only the small relay actuation power is going thru the ignition switch.

Bob

I forget I am talking about rover wiring here. Was thinking of more modern switched igntion power. Yould always get a fancy and safe and put in a master battery/alternator switch that energizes/de-energizes the whole truck...like we use on race and rally cars.

Something like this:

http://www.weekend-racer.com/master-battery-cutoff-switch-with-alternator-protection-p_319.html