gearbox - transferbox leaks

[rejeep]

im not looking to stop them all.. slow them down would be nice..

I am just getting an amazing amount of leakage and I cant pinpoint where...
I have already..
Replaced the oil pan cover with an Alum one..
selector seals and detent seals
rear output when i rebuilt the parking brake..

I know I need to do the front output seal..
anything else anybody can think of thats a common culprit..

[robert wood]

If you concentrate on the transfer case there are two things that may continue to cause trouble once you have solved the pan leaks with an aluminum transfer case cover.

1. The adjustment of the preload on the output shaft splines is too weak allowing the output shaft to move around and causing the rear output shaft to leak. The solution is a new seal and adjustment of the bearing shims.

2. If someone is too generous with sealant when mounting the transfer case to the gearbox the milled groove that vents the transfer cas can be blocked in which case it pressurises and forces the oil out. To check if the vent is open you can fill the box under the four countersunk screws on top of the transmission with oil and it will drain down into the transfer case if the vent is clear.

Ray

[Alk-3]

i had a similar issue just trying to chase down leaks.. mine was pretty bad. it turned out to be the inspection covers. it only leaked when the truck was in motion, which made finding the leak a challenge. what i did was remove the center seat cover plate and the prop shaft in the rear so the truck wouldn't move while i drove it up through the gears and got the transfer case up to speed. it was very clear at that point where the leak was, and a simple fix.

[rejeep]

good idea..
I think I may have the truck steam cleaned as well to clean off 30 years of gunk

[Terrys]

good idea..
I think I may have the truck steam cleaned as well to clean off 30 years of gunk

There goes your 'engineered-in' frame rust proofing.
Replacing the selector rod seals is a bit of a pain, and the little bit they leak is a trade-off. Sealing up the detents is often done with a spot of RTV on the end of the springs before you bolt up the keepers.
There should be a felt seal under the nut/washer on the output shaft. I've never found a toruq spec for the nut, but the end float of the output flange should be minimal, less than .005" I'd guess