body filler to use on a series truck

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  • rejeep
    4th Gear
    • Apr 2010
    • 420

    body filler to use on a series truck

    not a lot..
    little bits here and there..
    I am getting it painted and would like to take care of a few little things..
    1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
    1974 SIII 109" RHD
  • czenkov
    1st Gear
    • Sep 2008
    • 148

    #2
    Series trucks look best with dings and dents - even freshly painted. It will happen eventually anyway - so I embrace it. Sorry no clue on the best filler. I think a lot of people view it as sacrilege.
    1960 88" SII Pliny the Elder
    1997 D-90
    "Fear profits man, nothing"

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    • JackIIA
      5th Gear
      • Dec 2008
      • 498

      #3
      Bondo.

      I've used it with fine results. Just make sure it is compatible with your paint selection.

      Nothing wrong with using it, assuming you don't go nuts. If it's a concourse, then by all means hammer those dents out, anneal, and repeat!
      1970 88 IIA

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      • siii8873
        Overdrive
        • Jul 2007
        • 1011

        #4
        Be sure to thoroughly clean the spot of all paint and ruff up the aluminum with some sand paper.
        THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
        THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
        THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
        THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
        THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
        THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

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        • morgant
          1st Gear
          • Jun 2009
          • 170

          #5
          Chapter 3 of the Haynes Restoration Manual for Series I, II & III mostly glosses over it and really only covers U.K.-specific brands, but essentially suggests some of the finer, more flexible body fillers (since the Birmabright panels have some flex and therefore it can crack). I've not personally tried any filler on mine (still only dealing w/bulkhead emergency patch jobs).
          rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
          1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
          2002 Discovery II SE

          CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

          SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.

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          • rejeep
            4th Gear
            • Apr 2010
            • 420

            #6
            im really just trying to fill in the holes left in the back door from the spare tire mount..
            the PO moved it up and down.. so I have 2 sets of holes..
            1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
            1974 SIII 109" RHD

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            • Eric W S
              5th Gear
              • Dec 2006
              • 609

              #7
              Originally posted by rejeep
              im really just trying to fill in the holes left in the back door from the spare tire mount..
              the PO moved it up and down.. so I have 2 sets of holes..
              Google welders in your neighborhood. Usually you can find someone who can weld AL and have them weld the holes. Birma is still available but is called something different here...

              Ike has some pics of weld repairs on his site.

              EwS

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              • Cutter
                4th Gear
                • Feb 2009
                • 455

                #8
                Just buy or make something to bolt into those holes. Accessorize my friend.
                _________________________________________
                1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

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                • rejeep
                  4th Gear
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 420

                  #9
                  I was thinking about tool racks..
                  1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
                  1974 SIII 109" RHD

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                  • KevinNY
                    4th Gear
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 484

                    #10
                    I have all sorts of holes in the bed from old rivets holding god knows what. I drilled them all out when I repainted and filled them neatly with rubber hole plugs from the hardware store.
                    The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

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                    • rejeep
                      4th Gear
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 420

                      #11
                      if it was the bed.. i would agree.. but this is the back door..
                      where the entire driving population of the US see my rover the most while im slowing down traffic...
                      at least it should something nice to look at..
                      1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
                      1974 SIII 109" RHD

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                      • disco2hse
                        4th Gear
                        • Jul 2010
                        • 451

                        #12
                        I fill random holes with rivets or bolts (depending on size). They don't look out of place.
                        Alan

                        109 Stage 1 V8 ex-army FFR
                        2005 Disco 2 HSE

                        http://www.youtube.com/user/alalit

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                        • CMorris
                          Low Range
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 66

                          #13
                          Find someone with a decent TIG welder, settings are 90amps / 2.5 pulse per second / 7.5 balance.......get the Birma VERY clean (stainless wire brush and then acetone), use a heatsink on the back of the weld (copper or alum. block), pre-heat the area to be welded (I just heat up the heatsink with a propane torch), 1/16" 2% ceriated tungsten in the torch, and I've used 5356 filler wire with success on small holes and cracks.......if you have larger holes or gaps its best to get some donor Birma and cut a tight fitting patch.
                          A very good skim coat product is USC Autobody Icing Pt. #26006, available at any good autobody paint supplier and very easy to use.
                          I agree with others that dents and "character" marks belong on these trucks....however large holes and carved out gaps in the aluminum from ill conceived accessory placement, or whatever it was, gotta go.

                          Comment

                          • 109 Pretender
                            1st Gear
                            • Oct 2008
                            • 110

                            #14
                            Plastic filler won't work well to fill holes as in your situation. Easy solution already mentioned - fill w/appropriate nuts/bolts. Better solution is to have holes welded - if you can find a really competent auto body guy who has experience w/aluminum. If he's not really experienced then you might have bad warpage and/or blow through. Best solution is to replace the lower rear door panel. I think you can still buy skins in UK - however, that particuliar piece can also be made up fairly easily. I had same problem as you at one time. I made a new panel using 3003-H14 alum. which is a good body alum. Birmabrite has more Mg in it and is really close to 6000 series US alum. But, tempered 6000 series alum. work hardens very badly and isn't necessary for the application (totally non-stressed).

                            Best welding process for body alum. is oxy/acetylene set to a mild reduction flame. Tig hardens the weldment zone a lot - but since it's in a flat area here it could work too.

                            Good Luck

                            Comment

                            • Enigma
                              Low Range
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 88

                              #15
                              I have had good success by glueing on an aluminum patch on the backside with PL Premium construction adhesive. Once set I drill a small hole or 2 and apply aluminized body filler. Ooze the filler thru the small holes to act as a keeper. When all is set sand and prime as usual.

                              Cheers John

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