Series trucks look best with dings and dents - even freshly painted. It will happen eventually anyway - so I embrace it. Sorry no clue on the best filler. I think a lot of people view it as sacrilege.
Chapter 3 of the Haynes Restoration Manual for Series I, II & III mostly glosses over it and really only covers U.K.-specific brands, but essentially suggests some of the finer, more flexible body fillers (since the Birmabright panels have some flex and therefore it can crack). I've not personally tried any filler on mine (still only dealing w/bulkhead emergency patch jobs).
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1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
2002 Discovery II SE
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im really just trying to fill in the holes left in the back door from the spare tire mount..
the PO moved it up and down.. so I have 2 sets of holes..
Google welders in your neighborhood. Usually you can find someone who can weld AL and have them weld the holes. Birma is still available but is called something different here...
I have all sorts of holes in the bed from old rivets holding god knows what. I drilled them all out when I repainted and filled them neatly with rubber hole plugs from the hardware store.
if it was the bed.. i would agree.. but this is the back door..
where the entire driving population of the US see my rover the most while im slowing down traffic...
at least it should something nice to look at..
Find someone with a decent TIG welder, settings are 90amps / 2.5 pulse per second / 7.5 balance.......get the Birma VERY clean (stainless wire brush and then acetone), use a heatsink on the back of the weld (copper or alum. block), pre-heat the area to be welded (I just heat up the heatsink with a propane torch), 1/16" 2% ceriated tungsten in the torch, and I've used 5356 filler wire with success on small holes and cracks.......if you have larger holes or gaps its best to get some donor Birma and cut a tight fitting patch.
A very good skim coat product is USC Autobody Icing Pt. #26006, available at any good autobody paint supplier and very easy to use.
I agree with others that dents and "character" marks belong on these trucks....however large holes and carved out gaps in the aluminum from ill conceived accessory placement, or whatever it was, gotta go.
Plastic filler won't work well to fill holes as in your situation. Easy solution already mentioned - fill w/appropriate nuts/bolts. Better solution is to have holes welded - if you can find a really competent auto body guy who has experience w/aluminum. If he's not really experienced then you might have bad warpage and/or blow through. Best solution is to replace the lower rear door panel. I think you can still buy skins in UK - however, that particuliar piece can also be made up fairly easily. I had same problem as you at one time. I made a new panel using 3003-H14 alum. which is a good body alum. Birmabrite has more Mg in it and is really close to 6000 series US alum. But, tempered 6000 series alum. work hardens very badly and isn't necessary for the application (totally non-stressed).
Best welding process for body alum. is oxy/acetylene set to a mild reduction flame. Tig hardens the weldment zone a lot - but since it's in a flat area here it could work too.
I have had good success by glueing on an aluminum patch on the backside with PL Premium construction adhesive. Once set I drill a small hole or 2 and apply aluminized body filler. Ooze the filler thru the small holes to act as a keeper. When all is set sand and prime as usual.
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