Is this alternator correct?

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  • Donnie
    2nd Gear
    • Apr 2007
    • 287

    #16
    Originally posted by SafeAirOne
    Hmm...Why can't one test it electrically, with a continuity tester/Ohm meter without opening the case?
    It can be tested with a meter, but he said that he was a novice & unsure of what he was into. So I suggested the removal of the rear case , reset the brushes, that is what the small hole is for. 5 minutes, a 3" piece of wire, done...Faster than I could explain the Fluke meter process...........Donnie
    I spent most of my money on women & cars, the rest of it I just wasted.......

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    • SafeAirOne
      Overdrive
      • Apr 2008
      • 3435

      #17
      Originally posted by Donnie
      It can be tested with a meter, but he said that he was a novice & unsure of what he was into. So I suggested the removal of the rear case , reset the brushes, that is what the small hole is for. 5 minutes, a 3" piece of wire, done...Faster than I could explain the Fluke meter process...........Donnie

      Makes sense.
      --Mark

      1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

      0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
      (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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      • futurafalcon
        Low Range
        • Dec 2010
        • 10

        #18
        I didn't open the alternator wider than 5mm (1/4 inch) only at one corner to clear a casting. (I incorrectly converted from metric to imperial when I said 1/2 inch in a previous post)

        I found this excellent you tube video on reclocking an alternator.


        Based on that video I feel pretty comfortable cracking the alternator and checking the position of the brushes. The one thing that confused me is hole on the back of the 10si alternator (see picture) looks blocked, while the alternator in the video has a hole that is 'usable' when the alternator is open or closed.

        Anyways, I think I'm fine but I might take it down to my friendly neighbourhood specialty shop for a test if I don't open it up myself.
        1971 IIa 88

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