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Before I pull the starter I'd like to get opinions in case my diagnosis is wrong. This is a suffix C series 2a, which is now negative earth.
While installing a shiny new exhaust I noticed the positive cable to the starter was loose. This is the only cable that goes to the rear of the starter from the starter switch, not counting a ground strap on one of the rear starter housing bolts.
I have occasionally gotten a click on start and figured this was the culprit so I proceeded to tighten it. I don't know how far I turned it before realizing, but the whole stud was moving so I removed the outer nut and cable, tightened the inner nut and then reinstalled the cable.
When I went to start it, i might have gotten an initial click, but after that nothing. There are signs of the ground cable heating up at the battery negative terminal.
I think by turning the stud, something has moved internally causing a short inside the starter. I wanted to make sure the cable wasn't just touch the casing so I removed it to add a bigger spacer, and with the cable off I checked for voltage at the starter side of the switch, and get 12v when the switch is pressed. After re-connecting the cable, making sure there is no way there is an external short, I used jumper cables to apply 12v to the starter side of the start switch and just get a spark, so I think it's still grounded.
Agree? Any other test I should do? I assume apply 12v directly to the starter stud, but there isn't a lot of clearance there. I might as well pull the starter at this point.
Anyone have a picture of the inside of the starter at the rear? The repair manual doesn't show how the stud is connected internally.
Oh, and is it a bad idea to run without the starter (use hand crank) while taking care of fixing it?
tia,
charles
While installing a shiny new exhaust I noticed the positive cable to the starter was loose. This is the only cable that goes to the rear of the starter from the starter switch, not counting a ground strap on one of the rear starter housing bolts.
I have occasionally gotten a click on start and figured this was the culprit so I proceeded to tighten it. I don't know how far I turned it before realizing, but the whole stud was moving so I removed the outer nut and cable, tightened the inner nut and then reinstalled the cable.
When I went to start it, i might have gotten an initial click, but after that nothing. There are signs of the ground cable heating up at the battery negative terminal.
I think by turning the stud, something has moved internally causing a short inside the starter. I wanted to make sure the cable wasn't just touch the casing so I removed it to add a bigger spacer, and with the cable off I checked for voltage at the starter side of the switch, and get 12v when the switch is pressed. After re-connecting the cable, making sure there is no way there is an external short, I used jumper cables to apply 12v to the starter side of the start switch and just get a spark, so I think it's still grounded.
Agree? Any other test I should do? I assume apply 12v directly to the starter stud, but there isn't a lot of clearance there. I might as well pull the starter at this point.
Anyone have a picture of the inside of the starter at the rear? The repair manual doesn't show how the stud is connected internally.
Oh, and is it a bad idea to run without the starter (use hand crank) while taking care of fixing it?
tia,
charles
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