Electrical Issue

[AU_88]

So the other day I get into my truck, it cranks right up, let it warm up for a little bit, then I shift into reverse to back out of the driveway and the truck immediately dies. So I went to restart it, and when I turn my key, the light to start the truck never comes on. It turns over when I push the button, but won't crank. It's a IIa. Any ideas?

[Nium]

The low tension lead in the dizzy might need to be replaced. Fuses good? Points adjusted? Gas in the tank?

[printjunky]

always check for fuel and spark first

I don't know what the "light to start the truck" not coming on might indicate. But a couple of quick checks can help narrow down the problem.

I was recently flummoxed by an intermittent mechanical fuel pump causing a no-start condition. Checked all my electrics multiple times. And finally thought to pull the fuel hose off the carb, cranked it and was getting nothing. Electric fuel pump solved that instantly.

I'd also put a spark test pretty high up on the list. Pull a plug, put it back in boot on the wire and ground some part of the spark plug casing (threads) without grounding the electrode (tip). I find a set of wires with banana clips INDISPENSABLE for this kind of - and any kind of electrical - diagnosis. Crank it and see if there's any spark at the electrode. If not, you can do the same test on the wire coming from the coil to the center of the distributor - I use a bolt in the boot on that wire and use a couple of wires with alligator clips - one grounded, the other to the bolt, and put the clips on the other ends of the wires close enough to each other to see if there's a spark (or just put the wire from the bolt close to a ground).

Those are the two most basic checks. If you have spark and fuel, and it's still not kicking over, you likely to have a more complex (probably ignition, but could be carb, vacuum, valvetrain ....) problem, as Walker implied.

But you should also check that you have good grounds, and a good battery. Occasionally, my Rover seems to hate starting unless the battery has VERY good kick to it. Haven't figured that out yet, but once in awhile it will turn over fine, but won't start until I put the charger (in jump mode) on it.

Post back with any results.

[AU_88]

I don't know what the "light to start the truck" not coming on might indicate. But a couple of quick checks can help narrow down the problem.

I was recently flummoxed by an intermittent mechanical fuel pump causing a no-start condition. Checked all my electrics multiple times. And finally thought to pull the fuel hose off the carb, cranked it and was getting nothing. Electric fuel pump solved that instantly.

I'd also put a spark test pretty high up on the list. Pull a plug, put it back in boot on the wire and ground some part of the spark plug casing (threads) without grounding the electrode (tip). I find a set of wires with banana clips INDISPENSABLE for this kind of - and any kind of electrical - diagnosis. Crank it and see if there's any spark at the electrode. If not, you can do the same test on the wire coming from the coil to the center of the distributor - I use a bolt in the boot on that wire and use a couple of wires with alligator clips - one grounded, the other to the bolt, and put the clips on the other ends of the wires close enough to each other to see if there's a spark (or just put the wire from the bolt close to a ground).

Those are the two most basic checks. If you have spark and fuel, and it's still not kicking over, you likely to have a more complex (probably ignition, but could be carb, vacuum, valvetrain ....) problem, as Walker implied.

But you should also check that you have good grounds, and a good battery. Occasionally, my Rover seems to hate starting unless the battery has VERY good kick to it. Haven't figured that out yet, but once in awhile it will turn over fine, but won't start until I put the charger (in jump mode) on it.

Post back with any results.

On my IIa, when I turn the key the red light illuminates saying that it is ready to be started... No light, no run.

The battery is brand new, and it was running great, like I said, I pushed in the clutch, moved the lever over to reverse and before I even started to let the clutch out it died. Now, no light.

[Jim-ME]

Check your fuses and connections into and out of the fuse block. Mine did that once and I checked the connections and rotated the fuses and it started.
Jim

[tmckeon88]

Also check the battery ground strap - sometimes it doesn't seat well against the the engine block. That red charge light being off means there's a major interruption in the circuit somewhere, like battery to alternator or something. Some connection has popped off/lost its hold somewhere.

Tom

[SafeAirOne]

As Tom alluded to, that "I'm ready to start now" light is the charge lamp.

If I'm not mistaken, it compares the voltage coming out of the alternator/voltage regulator with the voltage at the "energized with key in 'run' position" circuit. Any imbalance in the two voltages will cause electricity to begin to flow toward the lower voltage, illuminating the lamp.

That's why it illuminates the lamp when it's time to start the engine--The battery is energizing the "key in 'run' position" circuit but the alternator isn't putting out any voltage yet because, of course, the engine isn't running.

Now...looking at the schematic, the charge lamp and the coil primary (white) wire are both fed off the ignition switch "energized with key in "run"" circuit. I'd be willing to bet that the temp and fuel gauges are both dead when the issue presents itself along with the oil pressure and choke lamp (if used).

Note that the engine will still turn over or "crank"--they're both the same term--because the starter solenoid is energized off the "start" circuit of the ignition switch.

Soo...I'd be willing to put money on it being a bad ignition switch or a poor contact on the white wire going from post #2 on the ignition switch to the fuse...er...box, I guess you'd call it. This would certainly explain all the symptoms simultaneously

[AU_88]

As soon as the rain and sleet lets up I'll go check everything...

[Terrys]

All very 'possible candidates' but call me old fashioned. I look for the simplest things first. I would have checked to see if I had 12 volts at the coil. Since you said "pushed the button" I gather you have an older 2(A) with the combination headlight/Ign switch. They are well known to be sensitive, if not outright failed. No charge light is the giveaway.

[AU_88]

All very 'possible candidates' but call me old fashioned. I look for the simplest things first. I would have checked to see if I had 12 volts at the coil. Since you said "pushed the button" I gather you have an older 2(A) with the combination headlight/Ign switch. They are well known to be sensitive, if not outright failed. No charge light is the giveaway.

Is there anyway to see if the ignition switch is the problem without ordering a $160 part? I checked the fuses and connections and they all seemed okay.

[LaneRover]

Have you tried jumping from the battery to the coil with alligator clips? If you do does the light come on and will it start?

[SafeAirOne]

Is there anyway to see if the ignition switch is the problem without ordering a $160 part? I checked the fuses and connections and they all seemed okay.

Yup. Make a jumper wire going from the terminal with the Brown w/blue tracer wire on the ignition switch to the one with the white ONLY wire. This bypasses the "run" portion of that ignition switch, sending electricity downstream to the coil, oil pressure light, gauges, etc. The truck should start (after you hit the starter) if the switch was faulty.

Note that you'll have to remove this wire to get the truck to shut off, so plan accordingly and if you have a pertronics electronic ignition, don't leave this wire on too long with the engine NOT running.

Bear in mind that your porblem sounded intermittent in the OP.

Good Luck!

[Terrys]

Is there anyway to see if the ignition switch is the problem without ordering a $160 part? I checked the fuses and connections and they all seemed okay.

If you don't have a VOM (Volt Ohmeter) get one. They are indespencible. Short of that, the old electric icepick is an equally good tool. Clip the alligator clip to a good ground (the back of the black acc. plug) and poke the terminals at the center of the ign switch. The outer ring are for lights, the inner ones are ign. circuit. You should be able to light the ice pick on one with the key off, and both with the key on.

[AU_88]

So I tried all of the above tonight with a head lamp, I may not have done it right given the light and that my wires don't really have colors anymore... I couldnt get anything to work and now I feel dumb. I will try it again in the morning when I have sunlight. I'm starting to think its the ignition switch. I just don't think any power is getting to the coil or anything, but I think power is getting to the switch because it still activates my headlamps. A month ago I had a similar problem and I would shake the truck and the light would come back on, but then go off once I tried to start the truck. The problem eventually went away, now I never get a light. The switch is old and I'm new to series trucks, but I have to turn the key and come back to the spot where the light is, the key doesn't just stop or anything (eventually it does when you turn it all the way to the right, it doesn't just spin). Also, the switch for the lights does work, if I turn the switch the lights do work, BUT I can't turn on the headlights, only the side lights, while the truck is running. If I do the truck dies. I hope all that makes sense.

Anyways, I figured I'd look through my green bibles, which I keep in the back of my truck, well they were soaked from the rain and my leaky roof. Bummer.

[SafeAirOne]

Don't feel dumb...Without a meter and with hard-to-identify wires, it can be a difficult task. BTW--is your rover a positive-earth or negative earth electrical system? It doesn't really matter either way as you're not using a meter or test probe for troubleshooting; I was just curious.

Another, perhaps easier way of bypassing the ignition switch is to do it further downstream, at the fuse box. Assuming your fusebox is unmolested, one side of one fuse should have the brown with blue tracer wire feeding it power all the time.

The same side of the OTHER fuse should have a white wire that supplies power to it only when the ignition is in the "run" position.

If you place a jumper wire between the brown/blue wire and the white wire, you are effectively performing the same function that the ignition switch (with key in "run" position) is supposed to be doing upstream.

Remember that after troubleshooting, you'll need to remove this jumper wire to turn the engine off.




I wonder if they had a worldwide auto theft problem with land rovers prior to the series III? It's SO easy to do.