Series 73 Repairs + Modifications

[LR Max]

If you read the BP write-up on carbs, you are led to believe this. However, the current spec Weber 34ICH (part number 15290.027) is factory jetted as follows:
Main Jet = 165
Em. Tube = F6
Air Corr. Jet = 190

These are the BP recommended 'starting point' jets for the 2.25L if at sea level.

I bought my Webber from RN and straight off the bat it was running rich. Had to install a smaller jet (like, 150-ish, if memory serves). ever since.

[IslandRover]

Hi guys.

So I've heard a ton of mixed reviews on Rocky Mountain parabolics VS RN's British line, etc. Seems like everyone has their own opinion on them.

Supp RM are now made in India and cheaply made thus the cheaper cost.

But...MY QUESTION TO YOU...one guy just told me that you have to install gas shocks (he recommended OMEs rather than ProComp) when you upgrade to parabolics. He said without the shocks the car would not ride properly with the parabolics (og shocks are too short). He doesnt sell shocks either so it wasn't a sales pitch.

Any thoughts? Confirm? Disagree?

Also, if I do go for OME shocks is spray painting them black (so they blend in) ok to do with a Rustoleum spray paint?

Thanks again!

[TedW]

Hi guys.

So I've heard a ton of mixed reviews on Rocky Mountain parabolics VS RN's British line, etc. Seems like everyone has their own opinion on them.

Supp RM are now made in India and cheaply made thus the cheaper cost.

But...MY QUESTION TO YOU...one guy just told me that you have to install gas shocks (he recommended OMEs rather than ProComp) when you upgrade to parabolics. He said without the shocks the car would not ride properly with the parabolics (og shocks are too short). He doesnt sell shocks either so it wasn't a sales pitch.

Any thoughts? Confirm? Disagree?

Also, if I do go for OME shocks is spray painting them black (so they blend in) ok to do with a Rustoleum spray paint?

Thanks again!

See comments above. I have RN parabolics ( 2 lf front / 3 lf rear) on my soft top 88 and love 'em. I did NOT love the Old Man Emus - way too stiff for my taste. I put my OEM Woodhead shocks back on and am very happy. I've never had a problem with them bottoming out (or topping out), on road, off road, or whatever. The truck handles swell, no body roll, and has a nice cushy (sort of!) ride.

Just my HO.

[NickDawson]

Changing shocks is silly easy, as long as they aren't rusted in place.
I'm going to let Nick Dawson explain how to change a shock. He came to this forum with no wrenching ability at all (no offense Nick) and he is learning a ton. He was forced into learning shock replacement, and can give you a great step by step tutorial. Take it away Nick!

True on all counts! Should be easy unless there's rust and I'm as green as they come.

Happy to share my adventure with shocks

I ruptured a shock while four wheeling a few hours from home. Literally pulled apart. So after lurching home, I ordered a new set from RN.

Shocks attach two ways: by bolt at frame and by a stud, washer and cotter pin at the leaf springs. The bolts were easy. The PO of my rig used copper grease on them liberally. The stud/washer/pins however were rusted solid. At one point I was 100% convinced they were welded.

For the first two, I fought removal with brute force - sledge hammers, cold chisel, and finally a sawzall. It was rough and hard (but nothing compared to getting them back on).

Then I saw the light. PB BLASTER! I soaked the last two pins for literally a week each and the pins just pulled right out. It was great. I felt stupid. That pretty much sums up all the work I do on the rover

Putting them back on was also a learning experience. The blots were again easy. The two new bushings compressed under the pressure from the bolts just fine. The studs however were more of a challenge. I'm told there is a tool that helps you add compression but I couldnt find one anywhere. I resorted to using a series of C clamps and a lot of busted knuckles... there simply isn't much easy about compressing bushings.

I did replace the washers and pins with stainless versions and on the last shock I simply reused the old bushings. It fit snug enough and I'd wished I'd done that for all of them. Reference above: I felt dumb.

All in all, a solid day of hard work, but nothing technically challenging at all.

Its also great because you get to see a lot of the axels, hubs, and suspension up close for a good inspection.

Good luck on the mods and keep us posted!!

[NickDawson]

guy just told me that you have to install gas shocks (he recommended OMEs rather than ProComp) when you upgrade to parabolics. He said without the shocks the car would not ride properly with the parabolics

My research suggested the same thing - you need gas shocks that fit the parabolics. I have parabolics from unknown origin from the UK. When I went to replace my shocks I wanted OMEs... I was ready to spend for them too... and EVERYONE talked me out of expensive shocks and into the procomps from RN. I've been quite pleased with them and frankly I'm 100% sure the money I saved is better spent elsewhere on the truck. An extra $200 worth of shocks isn't going to get you unstuck while wheeling or make the rover ride like a caddy.

[AU_88]

Jac04 wrote:
NAPA Select 84 Group 27. This is the biggest that will fit in the tray. IIRC, the original battery was a Group 24.

NAPA batteries are great, but as long as it is the correct size, you should be fine. DieHard, Optima, Interstate, Champion.....I don't think any one would give you too much trouble.

I would stay away from Optima, I've had two in my Discovery, and both were not very good. The first was replaced within two years and the second went bad less than two years after that. I have a Die Hard Platinum in my Discovery now, and a Kirkland battery from Costco in my RRC. Honestly they've both been good batteries so far. I don't think for your purposes you would need a $200+ battery.

As far as tires, I may be wrong, but I think Michelin owns and makes BF Goodrich and I prefer the BFG's.

[IslandRover]

Follow Up Repairs....

Ok, so first off.....thanks for all your input to date.

Now onto the next batch of repairs that my LR is said to need. Any thoughts (on ease of repair + projected time involved + experience notes + genuine vs proline vs more expensive upgrade) you could share would be appreciated as I investigate the parts needed for these (see below).

Thanks again!!!!

Wheel Cylinder (right front, right rear, left rear)
Brake Shoes (1 axel set)
Upper/Lower return springs for rear brakes
Brake flex lines
All clutch lines
Muffler w/ hanger set

Also, thoughts on seatbelts?......I want to keep them as orig as possible and may invest in a softtop down the road. Should I stick with lapbelts for ease (btwn soft and hardtop)? If yes, which kind? Hoping for a non-modified / non-modern / somewhat stock looking belt, that is up to date on safety. I currently have a stock static on drivers side and lap belts elsewhere.

FYI - We've got about a foot and half of snow here on island right now. Wish I had my LR with me to cruise the streets of untouched snow....

[cousindave]

I used proline brake parts from RN on a previous rover. Absolutely no problems! Also RN gives great technical advise and stand behind all their parts. One thing I learned the hard way is; check you hub seal before changing wheel cylinders. There's nothing like getting new wheel cylinders,brake lines and pads only to find that your landy doesn't stop any better than it did before spending money, blood, sweat and lots of tears!

[I Leak Oil]

I bought Proline brake shoes. The set I received were Britpart, still in the Britpart box. I've never had good luck with Britpart stuff, if I knew I would have shopped somewhere else. I'll keep these as a set of emergency spares but I'll look around for a set of Mintex shoes instead.

[rickv100]

RN has Mintex brake shoes, I just got a set of 11" rears for my LR.

Rick

[Terrys]

RDS has Mintex also.

[IslandRover]

NRP Exhaust Systems

Any thoughts on NRP Stainless Steel Exhaust systems?

Worth the additional cost?

I'll be driving on road and beach so thinking it could be a worthwhile upgrade...

Also, is RN the best place to buy? best price?

Thanks!

[AU_88]

If your exhaust is on it's last leg than maybe, but there is no point in replacing the exhaust unless you need to. It's not going to improve anything.

[IslandRover]

My exhaust is on its last legs.....I've had to put the parabolic + shocks on hold as they are supp to last me through next summer.

I'm taking on the necessary repairs to my Brakes, Clutch, Engine, Loose Ends, and Exhaust in early Jan.

So I'm wondering if the add cost for the SS is worth the cost OR is it more of just a cosmetic / luxury upgrade.

Thanks.

[jac04]

The NRP exhaust system is only sold through RN as far as I know. It is made by Techtonics Tuning out west. I installed one on my Lightweight. IMO it isn't worth the money, and there are some considerable design flaws with the system.

First I was surprised to hear (directly from Techtonics Tuning) that the design of the NRP exhaust is based on a beat-up IIA with completely shot engine & trans mounts. I had trouble with clearance at the x-member and I was told that some of my clearance issues may simply be due to the fact that I have new engine mounts.

Anyhow, there was a lot of twisting, sliding, and repositioning involved with getting mine to fit. In the end, the system ended up in place without any pre-load or stress on it. However, to fit the NRP exhaust on the Lightweight (which I was told should be no different than a standard 88"), I needed to:

1) Install spherical washers at the exhaust studs to allow for proper adjustment of the pipe (McMaster Carr p/n 91944A029, three required). This was CRITICAL. I found that the front pipe needed to come off the manifold at a slight angle. No big deal because of the 'ball and socket' type connection between the manifols and the pipe, right? Wrong. The flange on the NRP exhaust doesn't 'float' like the original exhaust. This means that the flange doesn't end up perpendicular to the 3 exhaust studs. If you try to tighten the nuts on the studs, it tries to bend the studs. I have a feeling that this would only result in manifold cracks around the studs. The spherical washer sets allow for the flange misalignment.
2) Custom fab an intermediate hanger. This needed to be done because there is no 'ball and socket' joint at the intermediate pipe like the stock exhaust system. Therefore, there is no adjustability to the intermediate pipe and you have to take what you get in terms of hanger alignment. Mine was way off.
3) Rotate the rear hanger so it was lower. Again, to allow for hanger alignment.
4) Install stainless shaft collars to the rear hanger to keep the rubber mount in place. Collars are McMaster Carr p/n 6462K15, 2 required. Without the collars, the rubber hanger would work its way out of place.
5) Get a new tailpipe made. The standard tail pipe is much too close to the tire and it will rub when the rear suspension flexes. I designed a new tailpipe and Techtonics sent me one at no charge (although it took a long time for them to do it).

I probably had 20 hours into the exhaust installation by the time all was said & done. Not bad for a $500+ exhaust system. So, overall, don't waste your time & money. IMO, you would be better off going through multiple standard exhaust systems. If you really want stainless, you can see what people have to say about the stainless system available from Atlantic British.

Now, with all that said, the NRP system sure looks pretty once installed: