I just got new rubber bulkhead vent seals, but am not sure which way they go on. Point me in the right direction?
How do you install vent seals?
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The defender ones attach to the vents the series ones attach to the bulkhead. With the series ones go get some weather strip adhesive and run a line around the seal and the bulkhead.
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Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWBComment
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The original Series rubber seals are a real rust trap, I have switched to the Defender foam type, that sticks to the vent flap. Unless you want your Land Rover to be 100% original, I would avoid the original rubber seal and fit the Defender type instead, it's much easier to fit too.Comment
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Just an FYI,
My rover has had the original series seals replaced by newer after market series seals, and the seal is a bit thicker. This makes closing the vents a little difficult, as you need to compress the rubber some to get the adjuster lever into the full closed position.
I understand this is not a problem with the defender type.Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.Comment
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Either type you will need to either remove the hinge pins on the scuttle cover or disconnect the opening arm to get the top of the seal in position.
For the Series style, you need to use contact cement (3M is good) to glue it in position. You need to reconnect the vent to the arm or scuttle.
Next for the Series style, you will need someone to help. Close the vent and have someone else pushing against the vent from the outside while you draw the adjusting knob or lever as tight as you can without braking it. If you don't get it sealed tight it may never seal properly.
Leave it tightly latched for 3 or 4 months for the rubber to conform to the shape of your vent lids.
I replaced my Series vent seals 14 years ago and one side has started leaking air again. An inspection tells me the seals are cracking. I plan to try the Defender style next just so I can get a hands on comparison. So far I like Defender door seals better than Series door seals. So I thought I'd give the Defender scuttle vent seals a go.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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My only addition is if you plan to use the Defender type seals, be carefull that the seal is alighned with the lip of the mating bulhead area. The pocket in the vent door is larger than the seal, and while it may look as though all is well, if it misses the lip on the bulkhead, it won't seal at all.Comment
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Buying 3m contact cement and leaving the vents closed for 3-4 months? Holy hell, I thought this was a drop it in and go kind of jobI may be on the way to the hardware store for some nice old fashioned adhesive backed foam weatherstripping....
'75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.Comment
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Keeping the vents closed that long will insure that the seals "mold" to that vent shape. I think you will be hard pressed to keep all the air and water out with hardware weatherstripping.
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Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWBComment
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Last edited by crankin; 12-20-2010, 05:42 PM. Reason: Added "ZING!" for affect. Bada Bing would have also worked…but “ZING!” felt right.
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Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWBComment
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1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
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