Transmission or Engine ?

[mrdoiron]

I need some advice here please...on my 69 IIa.

I recently had a u joint failure, following some transmission seal work done by a local transmission shop.

So I took it back to them as I figured it could have been related (per a previous posting I had). Turns out that the yoke portion of the rear drive shaft had a chip out of it and as such wouldn't secure correctly the new u-joint - so a new rear shaft went in (from Rovers north of course). Not sure if that caused the older u joint to fall out, OR if the shaft clipped the ground when the u joint came out not sure... regardless, the issue here is a new one :

While they had it, I told them that with the 'new seal kit' I had gave them for the transmission actually now drips even more...so "please check that also". So they did, re-sealed, shaft in - and home I went.

I noticed NOW however, that there seems to be far less power in all gears... with minimal pull, although it does go and cycle through gears fine... feels kinda like starting in second and never really picking up enough speed or power like before. None of the gears have any significant power...And top speed if far less also.
I moved it to low on the transfer and seems enough more pronounced in low with no real pull power ... is there a possibility they put it back together wrong yet still runs - geared lower ??? Or would this possibly be unrelated and something gone on the engine ?

Stumped and looking for thoughts on what could be happening before I take it back. It does sound a little different also...

appreciate some wisdom...

mike

[Apis Mellifera]

Sounds like they got the trans brake back on too tight. It's unlikely that you could disassemble a gearbox and reassemble it incorrectly such that it works fine mechanically, but somehow reduces performance in the way you describe. It appears to me to be a case of introduced drag. The most likely being an over-tight trans brake. If they (for some unnecessary reason) stripped the gearbox and TC to the bare case to replace the seals and gaskets, it's possible there is an end float problem (unlikely). So, I'd look at the trans brake first. It's the easiest to check too. This is assuming they didn't do any other work (timing adjustment, brake work). That would also cause sluggishness. I'm ignoring the possibility of the new prop shaft being stiff and needing to break-in. If it was stiff enough to cause the problem you've described, it would be faulty and apparent prior to installation.

Does the problem lessen as the temp warms up and you get some heat in the drive line?

[Terrys]

I agree with Apis. It sounds like a dragging E-brake. Easy enough to determine, and fix.
Or they used super-glue to seal up the leaks

[mrdoiron]

I agree with Apis. It sounds like a dragging E-brake. Easy enough to determine, and fix.
Or they used super-glue to seal up the leaks

Thanks - it is certainly strange.
I haven't noticed anything improve as she warms up, but then again I've not driven it far due to the lack of power/speed - only going to the home depot and back so far. I wasn't sue if I should drive it - or if that would potentially damage anything.... I'll take a few rounds around the block today and post back any findings.

thanks for the input so far, appreciated

mike

[SafeAirOne]

When you get back from Home Depot, is the handbrake drum too hot to touch, indicating dragging?

Coincidentally, I suspect that this is a good way to overheat the seals and get them to leak.

[mrdoiron]

When you get back from Home Depot, is the handbrake drum too hot to touch, indicating dragging?

Coincidentally, I suspect that this is a good way to overheat the seals and get them to leak.

I just got back in from a ride, and reading this I ran out to feel the handbrake it it didn't seem hot...although it has been parked 5 mins not sure if could have cooled in that time.

Two other things I noticed,
1. definitely even less power on an incline
2. the E-brake I tested while out, and it isn't holding very strong coincidentily as a smally declined surface with pulled full it still creeped forward..

mike

[Apis Mellifera]

After the next drive feel each hub to see if for some reason the brakes are dragging. Also feel the u-joints on your new prop shaft. I asked about the cold/hot change because I have a friend with a IIa that runs very thick gear oil. He says there is a noticeable sluggishness on very cold mornings.

There are a number of things that can cause a loss of power, so it's a matter of looking at the likely causes in each of the major systems and then narrowing it down from there. I'd still focus on the drive line from the TC since you had work done on that system and presumably it ran well before, but doesn't now.

[mrdoiron]

After the next drive feel each hub to see if for some reason the brakes are dragging. Also feel the u-joints on your new prop shaft. I asked about the cold/hot change because I have a friend with a IIa that runs very thick gear oil. He says there is a noticeable sluggishness on very cold mornings.

There are a number of things that can cause a loss of power, so it's a matter of looking at the likely causes in each of the major systems and then narrowing it down from there. I'd still focus on the drive line from the TC since you had work done on that system and presumably it ran well before, but doesn't now.

I also dont know what gear oil they used, but I would think after initial sluggishness it would not be a big factor... yet it does stay the same...

thanks,
will go out later today again.

[albersj51]

Did it drive normally after the tranny seals were replaced, but before the new prop-shaft? I ask because, if the interim time it drove fine, then perhaps you can narrow it down to one component over the other....do you hear the engine working harder to get up to speed; almost as if its supplying the power (higher RPMS) but that power isnt making it to the wheels?

[LaneRover]

This may be a bit too simple, but sometimes its that stuff that gets overlooked. Since they were working on the trannie and had to take out the tunnel and floorboards is there a chance that the floor mats (if you have them) didn't go back the way they came out and thus the gas pedal isn't going all the way to the floor?

[mrdoiron]

This may be a bit too simple, but sometimes its that stuff that gets overlooked. Since they were working on the trannie and had to take out the tunnel and floorboards is there a chance that the floor mats (if you have them) didn't go back the way they came out and thus the gas pedal isn't going all the way to the floor?

Just checked...in a somewhat "shoot me sorta way" , but no, the rubber mat is flat to the floor.
I enclosed a couple pics for reference - it'll seem a little odd, as I added both a removable cross member to enable trans our bottom, as well as a roughly fab'd skid plate...

thanks for triage help...

[Howsomever]

I would block the front wheels and jack up one rear wheel. With the transfer case in neutral what happens when you try to rotate the one wheel off the ground by hand?? It should turn freely.

[bkreutz]

Going back to the gas pedal idea, might be a good idea to check and see if you're getting full throttle when the pedal is to the floor. What I'm thinking is that maybe they removed the pedal (for whatever reason) and didn't get it back in the same position so now you're only getting partial throttle when the pedal is to the floor. (unless they decided to retard your ignition timing in retaliation for making them work on the vehicle). HTH

[scatterling]

not sure if it matters but your propshaft is on backwards.

[mrdoiron]

not sure if it matters but your propshaft is on backwards.

You know I wondered that, and not sure if it does matter either, but for sure will get them to reverse it when I take it back...

I check on the other suggestions - thanks