Removing rear brake drums

[rickv100]

I tried to replace the rear brakes on my 109 today only to discover that the last time they were serviced the drum was put on wrong and the puller hole is aligned with one of the holes for the drum hold on screw and the drum is rusted to the hub.

I tried tapping around the back of the drum with a rubber mallet after adjusting the snail cams to the lowest point. Still no luck.

I have applied Kroil around the lug nuts and I am letting it sit over night in hopes that it will losen the rust.

Other then taking a torch to apply heat any other ideas to remove the drum?

Rick

[Terrys]

The ID of the drum is a machined fit to the hub. That's where they get tight. You'll need to heat bothe the OD and the inner section. Just heating the inner won't do it because the OD hasn't moved.
Oh, and a rubber mallet isn't enough to even get it's attention, let alone break it loose.

[rickv100]

Terry,

Thanks for the information

Rick

[artpeck]

My drums on my S3 were stuck on from sitting outside for 15 years or so and un run. I finally got them off by using a hammer and progressively tapping around the perimeter. I figured if they broke at that point who cared as I needed them off one way or another. They all came off intact and after clean up and por 15 look and work great. My two cents.

[kwd509]

Tangential questian

after clean up and por 15 look and work great. My two cents.

I'm headed down the same road but still far behind...... But curious, after the multistep process just to apply por15, do you, topcoat it, or prime it AND topcoat it? Or perhaps just leave it as is?
Thanks.

[artpeck]

The process wasn't too bad actually. Degrease, etch and then allow to fully dry after washing. Por 15 goes on easily and levels quite well. I simply left them as is as they aren't really exposed to UV which is the issue with por 15. If you want a different finish and or color or it will be exposed to UV you have to prime and topcoat according to their instructions
This was the first time I had used it so I purposely tried it on the drums as they are pretty hidden and I figured if I didn't like the finish they wouldnt annoy me. I did use the satin finish versus the gloss which didn't seem right. having had the opportunity recently to pull the wheels while replacing springs I was pleased that the finish looks great. Have since used it on the fan shroud and a few other bits as I work my way through the truck.

[kwd509]

Thanks artppeck,
That's helpful. my question was posed as I too am figuring out how to treat rust and paint rover components..... Por 15 seems workable, as you state. my current dilemma is whether ti try using a water based rust converter instead of por 15. While it seems good and is easy to work with (corroseal), I feel almost compelled to topcoat it with a primer and topcoat for added protection. But the primary is relatively noxious to deal with and serves to undercut any benefit and simplicity gained with the water based product........ So perhaps por 15 is ideal where it is not exposed to UV.


Or can por 15 be topcoated. W/o a primer?

[rickv100]

Terry,

Soaking overnight in Kroil and the use of a bigger hammer did the trick.

Thanks again for the assistance.

Rick