Increase throttle... Engines wants to stall?

[RoverForm]

i thought i saw a thread on this topic.

after the trucks warm, and the choke is pushed all the way in, when i press the gas pedal, the engine starts to stall.

the only solution is to have the choke pulled out halfway, high idle, then it doesn't attempt to stall.

thoughts?

[Nium]

Which carb you got? Points been adjusted recently? Year and model of rover?

[siii8873]

could be a vacuum leak

[RoverForm]

'66 IIa 88" 2.25 petrol RHD
solex carb

points def not adjusted recently
started yesterday halfway back from the brickyard hauling half a ton of leveling sand

[Nium]

IMHO I'd say adjust the points and check the timing and see if that helps.

[singingcamel]

My money is on the carb, hence , needing to drive with the choke out.
Check for leak at the base plate of the carb, retorque the base plate and adjust the carb.
I would also adjust the valves and tune it up.
www.singingcamel.com

[mongoswede]

If the truck needs the choke on to run then thats a classic indication of a vacuum leak or a lean running condition...which could be a bad gasket or a clogged jet or passage. The choke chokes off the air supply to the carb so it gets more fuel....so with the choke on you are richening the fuel mixture.

[daveb]

could be the accelerator pump is not working. with the engine off, look down the carb while somebody pushes the gas pedal to the floor. You should see a stream of fuel shoot down the throat of the carb. If not, either the linkage to the accel pump is bad or the pump diaphragm is shot.

i thought i saw a thread on this topic.

after the trucks warm, and the choke is pushed all the way in, when i press the gas pedal, the engine starts to stall.

the only solution is to have the choke pulled out halfway, high idle, then it doesn't attempt to stall.

thoughts?

[jimrr]

it's usually the carb, floor the gas and the engine gags and will stop without feathing the pedal.

[gudjeon]

I would check for a line blockage, vacuum leak, and accel pump. After that, the fuel pump output. I have seen many seemingly big problems on old motors caused by these.

[NickDawson]

IMHO I'd say adjust the points and check the timing and see if that helps.

Sounds like points and timing to me too.
If they haven't been adjusted in a while, grab a new set and a new condenser too - $15 well spent.

[mongoswede]

in summary: its probably something under the hood (sorry...bonnett) thats causing the problem

[Terrys]

I agree with others; sounds like carb. Maybe a bunch of crud in th bottom of the bowl, slowly plugging the main jet. Doesn't sound like accel. pump, though the jet in the accel. pump is tiny (34ICH notorious for plugged accel jet body) Points closing up can mimmick this to some degree, but the choke hint kinda rules points out. Sounds like a 2 Six pack evening in the garage with a few good mechanics to kibbitz. I love a good problem with friends. We may not always fix it that night but we all feel good about it, and everything else too.

[RoverForm]

great input. i appreciate the replies.

today i went out and removed the timing cover on the fly wheel and the dizzy cover. was going to mess with the timing per page 32 in the green bible, but realized i didn't have a 12v test light, nor had enough spare bulbs/bits to make one. saving that for another day... what brand/type of test light do you all use for timing? the GB shows just a simple bulb with two wires?

i did start the beast up, let it run with the choke 1/2 way out for a good ten minutes to get warm, then pushed the choke in and hit the gas. no sputter, no attempt to stall.

i didn't have time to take her around the block and test under vehicle load... but i did have a look in the carb and the inner intake is completely black. perhaps it's time for a tune up?

but why didn't it try and stall today when i hit the gas?

[gudjeon]

I use an el cheapo multi-meter set on Ohms to do the work of a test light.