Static ignition timing vs. inductive timing lights

[Alaskan Rover]

I recently broke my last inductive timing light (they don't seem to build good ones anymore), and now am thinking of just going with the static timing procedure that the rover manual recommends.

Anybody have any input on which leads to better timing on a 2.25 liter series engine w/ points? Static or timing light?

I've always encountered a conumdrum when using the timing light: I initially set the engine RPM at 750, and then turn the distributer to get the timing marks to line-up to specs depending on octane as per manual. But here's the rub: Turning the distributer CHANGES the engine RPM, seemingly ruining your attempts to get 750 rpm. A blasted conundrum!

It seems for a points car, static timing would eliminate this "shifting RPM while timing" problem, thus resulting in more accurate timing, but removing #1 spark plug to find TDC and then hooking up a test light on the point-set takes much more time than simply hooking up a timing light.

Any ideas? Which is your preference? Static timing is certainly CHEAPER...but is it more accurate??

[I Leak Oil]

Static timing is good to get the engine started. To fine tune it use the b.e.e.r. method. It can also be used to tune the carb.

[NickDawson]

Static timing is good to get the engine started. To fine tune it use the b.e.e.r. method. It can also be used to tune the carb.

That has also been my experience.
I started with the induction light and have moved to using a volt meter (static timing) and then I dial it in by beer...errr... ear

[I Leak Oil]

In all seriousness though, a timing light is fine provided you can find the mark on the pulley and the pointer under all the greasy grime. If you have the earlier engine with the marks on the flywheel then the b.e.e.r. method is easier than moving all the junk and becoming a contortionist to read the marks with a light.

[Alaskan Rover]

In all seriousness though, a timing light is fine provided you can find the mark on the pulley and the pointer under all the greasy grime. If you have the earlier engine with the marks on the flywheel then the b.e.e.r. method is easier than moving all the junk and becoming a contortionist to read the marks with a light.

My timing mark on the pulley is easy to see...I always renew either a dab of yellow mechanic's paint on it or in a pinch a dab of white-out, as needed.

My rover engine leaks so much from the REAR seal that their is nothing left to leak from the front...so my timing mark stays quite clean.

Please fill me in. B.E.E.R. method = ?????

[I Leak Oil]

Please fill me in. B.E.E.R. method = ?????

Beer and Ear works on Every Rover...
Sit a can of freshly opened beer on the wing. Adjust the timing or carb. until you get as little vibration as possible. Use your ear to listen for issues (pinking or the likes). When finished enjoy your efforts with a by now warm beer.....

[stomper]

P.S. this beer needs to be in a glass or a bottle. None of that caned garbage!

[I Leak Oil]

....and if you're timing a diesel it needs to be a bock or stout or similar viscosity. A Bud is too thin and will just look like someone peed all over the wing.

[jimrr]

ha ha, use stout beer as opposed to bud light........that's funny.