Stripping rusty parts

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • mike_cyul
    Low Range
    • Aug 2010
    • 17

    Stripping rusty parts

    Just wondering if anyone knows a product in which you can soak parts in order to strip paint off them. This as opposed to brushing on and scraping off.

    My 1960 88" has some fairly rusty parts that were painted over by the previous owner and just applying paint stripper leaves paint in the small micro rust pits, which takes forever to get out even with brass wire and paint-remover wheels. Media blasting is not an option.

    Thanks,

    Mike
    1960 88" 2.25 Petrol LHD Export
    http://1960landroverrestoration.blogspot.com/
  • LaneRover
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1743

    #2
    My brother has used electrolytic rust removal

    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

    Comment

    • mongoswede
      5th Gear
      • May 2010
      • 757

      #3
      There is a product that is fairly cheap, doesn't have any real odor and won't take the skin off your hands instantly. I call it brake fluid. Brake fluid will destroy most paints in a pretty short period of time. It won't break down powder coating and some of the enamels seem to be a bit more resistant. but give it a try.


      Now if it is rust that you need to strip off of then there are other products that will work. A sand or bead blaster will be the quickest. Otherwise check out the "Eastwood" catalog or the POR15 website for some ideas. And lastly, you could put all the small parts into a plastic tupperwear bin, put in some sand or shot with it, tape the cover on, wrap the tupperwear in a towel and tape the towel in place...then go to your local laundromat, put this assembly in the drier, and tumble dry it for 20 minutes. Sort of a low budget sand blaster.....we used to do this for small motorcycle gas tanks

      Comment

      • TedW
        5th Gear
        • Feb 2007
        • 887

        #4
        Originally posted by mongoswede
        There is a product that is fairly cheap, doesn't have any real odor and won't take the skin off your hands instantly. I call it brake fluid. Brake fluid will destroy most paints in a pretty short period of time. It won't break down powder coating and some of the enamels seem to be a bit more resistant. but give it a try.
        Boy, I'll say. It worked like magic on my original paint finish. Dissolved it in a nanosecond. Trouble was, I didn't want it to!

        Comment

        • mike_cyul
          Low Range
          • Aug 2010
          • 17

          #5
          Removing rust I can do, it's the paint that needs to go. Not sure what type of paint it is, but it has been pretty resistant to stripper as well. Didn't think of brake fluid! I'll give it a shot.

          Mike
          1960 88" 2.25 Petrol LHD Export
          http://1960landroverrestoration.blogspot.com/

          Comment

          • masonater
            3rd Gear
            • Nov 2007
            • 329

            #6
            I got a 5 gallon bucket of stuff called Chemdip from autozone last year, i havnt met a paint that can hold up to it yet, or powder coat. Smells like your going to die going near it but does the trick.
            1970 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
            1971 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
            1982 Mercedes 300TD
            1989 RRC
            1993 D110
            1994 RRC LWB
            1995 RRC SWB Brooklands Edition
            1995 RRC LWB
            1995 RRC LWB
            1995 Disco
            1996 GMC 2500 Suburban
            1996 Disco
            1997 Disco
            2001 RR P38
            2005 LR3 HSE
            2006 RR HSE

            Comment

            • widerberg
              Low Range
              • Feb 2010
              • 30

              #7
              For some parts, I slather Naval Jelly on, let it sit for a while, slather some more on, rinse, repeat. Then dry and treat with something rust preventive before painting. I suppose if you had a plastic tub of some kind you could soak a part in this stuff. It basically eats away at the rust. How long you leave the part in will depend on how rusty it is. And if the stuff dries on your part, you just add more and it loosens up and rinses off.
              Last edited by widerberg; 02-15-2011, 03:07 PM. Reason: Er, that would be "naval" not "navel"
              Bo Widerberg
              '73 Land Rover 88"
              '69 VW Bus (Westy)
              '69 VW Beetle

              Comment

              • rickv100
                1st Gear
                • Aug 2010
                • 143

                #8
                2x for electrolysis, simple to set up and no hazardous materials to dispose of. It also will stabilise the rust to iron oxide. Plenty of information on the web about how to do it.

                Rick
                73 xMOD S3 109
                52 M37

                Comment

                • bkreutz
                  4th Gear
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 408

                  #9
                  x3 on electrolysis. I've used it on a number of occasions. Sometimes it works great for paint removal, sometimes not, depends on the paint and how it was applied. Here's a link for those interested. http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.co...st_Removal.htm
                  Gale Breitkreutz
                  '03 Disco
                  '74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
                  '47 CJ2A

                  Comment

                  Working...