Galvanizing Leaf Springs

[amcordo]

Before you say "it can't be done because they flex and the coating will come off" consider that it was done on Roebling wire used for suspension bridges. And that had to flex when it was put on bridges.

Anyone done it? Have a convincing argument for me to not try it?

I dislike rust, even if it's just a cosmetic issue.

[Eric W S]

Before you say "it can't be done because they flex and the coating will come off" consider that it was done on Roebling wire used for suspension bridges. And that had to flex when it was put on bridges.

Anyone done it? Have a convincing argument for me to not try it?

I dislike rust, even if it's just a cosmetic issue.

Yes. Springs wear out. Why try to galvanize a worn out part or one that will soon wear out?

Springs should be consumable. Change them along with shocks when needed. Not like they don't make new ones anymore...

[I Leak Oil]

Not sure how the spring steel would like the temps involved. Might not be an issue but.......

Paint them black and don't worry about them.

[TedW]

Tony: I've had springs that lasted for many years, so your galvanizing jones is justified, imho.

I would think that it would work best on parabolics, where you have a minimum amount of contact between the leaves. Take 'em apart, dip 'em, and reassemble.

The earlier comment on the temps affecting the springs is certainly something to consider.

All that said, I think that you owe it to all of us on the forum to dip some paras and report back. You can easily recoup the cost by not chasing Columbus babes for one weekend. For you, that should about cover it.

[solihull109]

Tony, the best way to help eliminate the friction between the leaf springs is to just get rid of them. Coil springs are far superior.

[amcordo]

HA. I enjoy the responses I get on here.

[I Leak Oil]

Tony, the best way to help eliminate the friction between the leaf springs is to just get rid of them. Coil springs are far superior.

Yes but those don't get a pedestrian coating of zinc...no no no...those get the 24 carat treatment! If you can afford coils you can afford to have your butler polish them every weekend too.

[Terrys]

I am not sure what the temps involved in hot dip galvanizing are (Jim Y?) but if it's over whats known as the lower critical temperature range, the range it was stress relieved, or tempered at after normalizing, it will act as a second temper cycle, making them soften. Take a piece of a broken leaf spring to the galvanizer, ask him to check the brinell hardness, or if they rockwell test, the rockwell harness. Them have them do their thing, then check the hardness again.
Then you can tell the ladies you also study metallurgy.
I'm impressed you know about wire rope. My company made wire rope sockets for most of the big wire rope mfgrs for suspension bridges, and also draglines like the Great Musky. Every single wire rope socket used on The Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge, GW bridge, Tappan Zee and a mess of others were made in Hartford. Our largest, about 2400lbs was for 8"wire rope. Trenton and Williamsport used to be big in wire rope mfg.

[Apis Mellifera]

I still have my old deciduous springs if you're looking for new ones. Hot dip temperatures near 900F. If that didn't alter the spring steel, I think the leaves rubbing against each other would quickly wear the coating off.

This is worth a read:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/trucks-trailers/151156-does-anybody-make-galvanized-leaf-springs-old-thread.html

[gudjeon]

Didn't the rear of Chevy Venture vans use a one piece plastic spring?

[I Leak Oil]

Were they plastic or fiberglass? Maybe I'm thinking of the 'vette glass springs. Wonder if you could galvanize them?

[Apis Mellifera]

Corvette's have a transverse fiberglass leaf spring in the rear.

[Terrys]

900 degrees is deffinately above the lower critical, but don't they just dip and remove? It isn't as though they're left in to soak.

[junkyddog11]

900 degrees is deffinately above the lower critical, but don't they just dip and remove? It isn't as though they're left in to soak.

They leave it in long enough for most base metal to absorb most of the heat if they pull it too soon the coating cools quicker and stays really thick. Regardless of the effect on the metalurgy I can't imagine galvy working that well on springs.

leaf springs should be oiled. My favorite is the Waxoyl clear cavity wax. I creeps really well in conventional leaf packs, keeps the rust at a minimum and helps the springs function. This doesn't all apply the same for pairofbollicks but it will keep the spring looking good.

[albersj51]

Just throwing this out there. it makes sense that the rubbing would cause the zinc to wear off quickly. What if you used UHMW-PE tape between the leaves? Would that create enough of a barrier, and enough anti-friction, to make galvanizing feasible?