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Sean, I believe that recipe is designated as 2NY14.
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Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club president -
I have found that some 5wxxx it 10wxxx are great in the cold or when they are put in new. After some time, even the best brand thins out when the ambient temps get warm. That's why if you go this route, use it for winter. This is the main reason I went to a good 0w50 or the Rotella 5W40 as I was too lazy to change it as soon as it warmed up again. Besides for amount of mileage I do and mostly put-put in the woods, I only change it once a year.
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I use 5w30 in winter and 10w40 in summer, but I live in Maine and the poor thing hardly heats up in winter, even with the front almost completely closed up.Comment
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Re: Oil - Check out this link
Some interesting info here for all you wonky types.Comment
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I don't bother with UOA's as one analysis costs as much as replacing with another batch of oil. I am just going by what the oil gauge does with a lighter weight of oil in warmer temps. Seems an overkill approach to a 1950's design engine. I like using decent stuff like the next guy, but I have other things to worry about.
Now if I drove and engine that would cost me 30K to replace, that would be another story...
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Sorry, based on you statements I just figured that you had UOAs showing some specific 5W-xx or 10W-xx oils that showed an unacceptable viscosity breakdown after a relatively short period of time.
I understand that everyone has their own views on engine oil. Unfortunately, people tend to read what others state and take it as fact. Also, people tend to believe that "thicker is better" for engine oil. It may seem like a good idea, but an oil that provides a viscosity higher than the design viscosity at operating temperature is providing absolutely no benefit.Comment
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I just get nervous when an oil works out great at first, but thins out when it get hot, especially when hotter weather hits. An oil that can maintain its viscosity on the gauge is what I go by. Seeing the pressure dwindle when at idling at a light is not what I look for. Also, I have settled on changing once a year using a 0w50 or 5w40 for my all weather, all condition driving habits. I used to be a summer oil/winter oil guy.
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Im in Richmond just south of you, I've been running straight 50w (which is surprisingly listed as standard in the green bible for my 2.5L).Comment
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If you run rich (I have a rochester carb) and drive it a lot I found it's best to change it more than once a year because the gas may "leak down" and dilute the oil.04 Disco, Gone-Disco died & so did mine
'72 S3 88 - Leakey & SqueakyComment
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jac04,
For my 109/2.25p, I just do not see any advantage to 5Wxx or 10Wxx oils. This is not to say they are a bad choice - they just don't put anything on the table so-to-speak. The 25W50 covers my application range quite well (presumably with less VII's), and is easily hand-cranked to build oil pressure prior to frigid starts.
I run Mobil Delvac1 5W40 in my 2003 VW Tdi, which is a modern (Group-3 base-stock) full synthetic, but this is simply not necessary for the 2.25p's working conditions. The Tdi has run Delvac1 since the initial break-in was complete. At 161k miles it has not lost a single psi of compression and returns 52mpg (highway). This is a tough application and UOA (I have not bothered with this since ~2005) has shown the 5W40 still has plenty of life at 10k change intervals.
On a whole I change the 109's fluid way more than needed (motor/diff's/trans/t-case/OD) but relax at the thought I can jump-in and go (long-haul, wheeling, daily-driver...) whenever I want.
Tom P.Tom P.
1965 exMoD 109
1995 RRC LWB w/EASComment
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10w 30 from wallmart all i ever use in my rover
aaron73 series III 88 2.5 na diesel daily driver
67 series 2a 88 RHD sold
88 RRC sold
60 mga coupeComment
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