Few questions on gearbox removal

[SeriesShorty]

I gave up trying to get the synchro clips in through the top cover. So out is coming the gearbox. Eh, it's a good learning experience to boot so what the heck. I'm just about done but have a few questions:

1) Rear driveshaft - how can you rotate the rear driveshaft to get at the all the nuts on the transmission brake backing plate? I only got it to turn enough to get 2 of them out. I have the front driveshaft off already.

2) Transmission brake linkage - I removed the cotter pin off the lower section of the linkage that is near where the bracket is attached to the frame, but I can't pop the linkage apart. What is the best way to detach this linkage to remove the gearbox?

3) Clutch mechanism thingy - Where is the best place to detach the clutch mechanism at the gearbox? I see two spots where there are studs with cotter pins, one is horizontal nearest to where it enters the gearbox, the other is vertical nearest to the clutch linkage. I'm assuming just one of these needs to be removed, which is it?

Thankful for beautiful weather today,
Jen

[Apis Mellifera]

1. Raise one of the rear wheels or unbolt the DS from the diff.
2. It is threaded - unscrew to remove.
3. I have a SIII so wasn't face with such a dilemma.

Copper grease that clevis pin and other trans brake pivots during reassembly.

[SeriesShorty]

1) LOL Same as the front DS duh! I nominate myself for bonehead question of the day award. Thanks, it's off and now I can work on 2 & 3 when I get more daylight.

So far, not the worst task ever.

[SeriesShorty]

Just a few more questions...

Thanks to the lovely weather today I finally got the last few things unbolted for the gearbox removal.

1) Do you have to remove the handbrake crossbar in order to get the gearbox out?

2) Ever heard of a military chassis that didn't have a removable crossmember? Guess I'm one of the (un)lucky few.

3) I'll be using ratchet straps attached to a 2x4 to lift the gearbox out. I planned on borrowing some muscle, lifting it up and swinging the bellhousing end around to the passenger side, then sliding it through the door. Sound like a good plan?

Thanks again everyone!

[gudjeon]

If the box comes out through the top, then yes, park-brake cross bar needs to be removed. Coming out the top is waaayyyy easier, if not possibel by taking the time to remove the floor and seat box. Military versions had a bolt-on crossmember to make it possible to drop all out the bottom, probably to suit field repair. Strapping a 2x4 along with some muscle is a great idea. I pulled it back, tilted nose down, and lifted it out whole. level out and came out over the gas tank on the right hand side. I took the door off too. Makes life easier when stuff is out of the way.

Once you do it this way, you will wonder why on earth any one would wrangle the thing lying on your back in the dirt.

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks Gudjeon. Guess I've got 4 more bolts to undo then.

It's strange that my truck doesn't have a removable crossmember. But I will agree that it seems easier to take it out from the top anyways. I'll soon find out!

[JackIIA]

Series - I'm assuming you're using an engine hoist with those rachet straps and 2x4. Why not just use a tow strap looped right to the hoist? That's what I did, no problems. I'm just leary of using wood. No truly good reason besides personal prejudice.

I'm sure you know this, but if you do go with the 2x4, it should be used on edge rather than the wider flat side, because of additional strength. Just like you'd find in a door or window header in home construction, if that makes sense.

[SeriesShorty]

Hey Jack, no engine hoist, just some old fashioned muscle. My back would appreciate the hoist but the only place to put it would end up being in my neighbors yard. I think I may have a pressure treated 4x4 in case the 2x4 on edge feels weak.

About how much does the gearbox/transfer case weigh? I gotta start hinting around to friends for some muscle help.

[LaneRover]

Hey Jack, no engine hoist, just some old fashioned muscle. My back would appreciate the hoist but the only place to put it would end up being in my neighbors yard. I think I may have a pressure treated 4x4 in case the 2x4 on edge feels weak.

About how much does the gearbox/transfer case weigh? I gotta start hinting around to friends for some muscle help.

But would your neighbor mind?

[SeriesShorty]

But would your neighbor mind?

LOL He actually wouldn't mind, but as with most folks this winter it's been extremely wet here and his sump pump drains right near there. It would turn into a squishy mess in no time. Which could be fun in a different arena.

[cousindave]

Shorty, I just rebuilt my tranny two weeks ago... easier to seperate the transfer box from the tranny this way you don't need two butts in the rather small doorway of a landrover. Neither are very heavy when seperated. Good luck!!

[JackIIA]

Shorty, I just rebuilt my tranny two weeks ago... easier to seperate the transfer box from the tranny this way you don't need two butts in the rather small doorway of a landrover. Neither are very heavy when seperated. Good luck!!

This is a very good point. One I tend to forget. After doing benchwork on mine, it was a cinch to carry it piecemeal up from the basement to the garage. Definitely do it this way. Your back will thank you.

And obviously, if you have an OD fitted, do that first!