Just dropped 3rd gear

[Clive]

SIII 1973. I was driving to work yesterday, downshifted and could not engage third...all other gears work fine, but it will not shift into third. I drained the oil out of the mainbox through a paper filter and felt around inside the drain hole. No bits of gear or synchro clips that i could find or see there.
Has anyone experienced this abrupt loss of a gear.
Much appreciate suggestions...thank you. Clive

[Tim Smith]

I'm guessing that this has to do with the linkage on the top of the gearbox. It's easy to get a look at it through the yellow knob's holding plate and if you need to open it up it would be pretty accessible by removing the tunnel cover.

[BackInA88]

Can you get it in 4th?

[a109]

When this happened to me it was the synchro clips.
John

[Clive]

Yes, I can get it in all other gears except 3rd....

[BackInA88]

Sounds like one of the synchro spring clips could be out of place.
I have read that these clips/springs can be replaced without removing the trans.
But none of the posts I have read have had any luck doing it.
This would suck as you would have to remove the floor panels and remove the trans shifter rod top cover. Than you might be able to move it back in place.
But if it moved once it might move again?
To replace the synchro assembly you have to remove the trans.

Or something has gotten wedged between the trans top cover and the shifting block on the shift rod that the shifter ball end sticks in.
Maybe a small stone, a piece of wood and old bolt?
This is the easiest to check.
It's the shift rod on the left side.
You maybe able to see it if you remove the plug from the side of the trans tunnel cover?

Good luck

[Clive]

Thanks very much for comments and suggestions. As expected above it was indeed a spring clip on the 3/4 selector that had broken. Replacing it was not a lot of fun...not a lot of space in there...destroyed the first replacement spring trying to get it in until I figured there was a small ridge at the back of the sliding gear that it was getting caught up on. Once I pried up the fore end of the spring (awkward) it slid home and clicked into place as pretty as you please.

[daveb]

To replace the synchro assembly you have to remove the trans.

technically this is not true. you could slide the trans back a few inches and pull the bellhousing and top cover. might save a little time over pulling the seatbox and breaking the transfer box from the gearbox etc. While you are in there you can replace most of the bearings too, and the clutch. (Ask me how I know this) Minor point but just for the record if this is the only problem you have you could save quite a bit of disassembly by NOT pulling the entire gearbox out of the car.

[Les Parker]

Back on the road again

Clive,
Glad to learn that you are back on the road again.
Perseverance pays off, again !!
Good to know that the clips we sent down worked for you.

[Chris McKnight]

No seatbox

technically this is not true. you could slide the trans back a few inches and pull the bellhousing and top cover. might save a little time over pulling the seatbox and breaking the transfer box from the gearbox etc.

For what it's worth, you don't need to pull the seatbox to get the transmission out. When I rebuilt my transmission/transfer-case, I simply dropped the t-case down, then unbolted the transmission from the engine, and slid it back and down. It's tight, but by turning the gearbox just right the bellhousing will slide right through the tunnel cutout in the front of the seatbox. I don't have a removable crossmember either--stock series 3 88.

Chris

[BackInA88]

technically this is not true. you could slide the trans back a few inches and pull the bellhousing and top cover. might save a little time over pulling the seatbox and breaking the transfer box from the gearbox etc. While you are in there you can replace most of the bearings too, and the clutch. (Ask me how I know this) Minor point but just for the record if this is the only problem you have you could save quite a bit of disassembly by NOT pulling the entire gearbox out of the car.

Interesting.
Is this a Series III bellhousing?
How do you access the nuts that retain the bellhousing.
How do you get to the bolt or nut (depending on what trans you have) on the layshaft?
I found that although the seat box and floor pans are no fun they weren't that bad.
I had the trans and t-case out in under 3 hours and this was my first time doing a Series.

[BackInA88]

For what it's worth, you don't need to pull the seatbox to get the transmission out. When I rebuilt my transmission/transfer-case, I simply dropped the t-case down, then unbolted the transmission from the engine, and slid it back and down. It's tight, but by turning the gearbox just right the bellhousing will slide right through the tunnel cutout in the front of the seatbox. I don't have a removable crossmember either--stock series 3 88.

Chris

Although the trans and t-case by themselves are not that heavy doing it no my back on the garage floor doesn't sound like fun.

Engine hoist in the passenger door.
Pick it out. (more room if you remove a fitted overdrive first, ask me how I know)
Jack the hoist higher.
Drop it on the work bench.
Get a bar stool and get greasy.

Besides while my trans, seat box and floor pans were out my wife washed down the frame and gas tanks!!
I am one lucky guy!

[Chris McKnight]

Although the trans and t-case by themselves are not that heavy doing it no my back on the garage floor doesn't sound like fun.

I thought the same thing, so I took out the floor boards (which need to come out anyway) and stood through the openings so I could let the boxes down from up above. Just reach through the seatbox to lower each box down onto a piece of cardboard. Then grab the edge of the cardboard and slide it out. I think I had to jack one side of the truck up a few inches to get the transmission to clear something when sliding it out on the floor. I don't remember what got in the way.

Maybe not the most elegant method, but it works well when it's just one person without a hoist.

Chris

[daveb]

hi

doesn't matter if it is a SIII or SIIa, you pull the clutch release housing on the IIa or the input shaft sleeve/bearing cover on the SIII. That provides access to the layshaft nut (IIa) or bolt(III).

Nuts that reatin the bellhousing are accessible from within the bellhousing...

Hardest part is getting the bellhousing back on when you are done doing whatever it is you were doing.

Granted also you'd need to support the gearox pretty well while it is off it's mounts. Sliding the gearbox back without fully removing it form the car is common for doing a clutch replacement but it is the bellhousing that keeps it from falling out. So you would need to support it pretty well and as we know that dlanted bottom on the t-box does not make a good jacking point.

I have my 109's motor out right now and just finished redoing the bellhousing /release mechanism/mainshaft front bearing(the little plastic one)and the layshaft and input shaft bearings. Easy this way since I didn't have to move the trans I didn't have to undo the driveshafts, etc etc etc

getting the bellhousing back on that way is not "fun" per se but not impossible by any means.

Gearbox out in 3 hours is pretty good.

Interesting.
Is this a Series III bellhousing?
How do you access the nuts that retain the bellhousing.
How do you get to the bolt or nut (depending on what trans you have) on the layshaft?
I found that although the seat box and floor pans are no fun they weren't that bad.
I had the trans and t-case out in under 3 hours and this was my first time doing a Series.

[chester rides again]

Operation C1-18 in the GB?

Clive and other,

I think I am experiencing the same issue. I was driving home and suddenly was unable to shift into either 3rd or 4th. Pulled over, got back into 1st, went up thru 2nd and was again unable to get into 3rd or 4th. On the third try, I did find 3rd for my trip thru the neighborhood.

In looking at the Green Bible, it looks like I just have to start the Operation of removing the Gear selector shafts and replace the springs that hold in the selector balls???

Could anyone elaborate on this?

I'm getting ready to have our garage torn down and don't want this to turn into a rediculous project with me working out in the cold.

Jeff

Thanks very much for comments and suggestions. As expected above it was indeed a spring clip on the 3/4 selector that had broken. Replacing it was not a lot of fun...not a lot of space in there...destroyed the first replacement spring trying to get it in until I figured there was a small ridge at the back of the sliding gear that it was getting caught up on. Once I pried up the fore end of the spring (awkward) it slid home and clicked into place as pretty as you please.