Transmission/E-brake question

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Bostonian1976
    5th Gear
    • Nov 2006
    • 750

    Transmission/E-brake question

    I'm getting my Rover inspected for the first time in 3 years either today or tomorrow (haven't been running it). Should pass fine. The one thing I always run into is the e-brake - the inspection guys want the brake to firmly hold the truck in place while they attempt to go forward in first. That's sort of laughable on my truck, as the brake just barely holds on the slightest incline. I end up having to adjust the transmission brake with the adjustment nut under the center seat, but when it's adjusted tighter, I get a pop-pop-pop as I drive down the road. What's my problem? Is something warped that catches on each rotation? Thanks...
    '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces
  • SalemRover
    3rd Gear
    • Aug 2007
    • 310

    #2
    You could always leave the overdrive engaged. The transmission brake adjuster is on the backing plate on the rear of the transfer case. It is a small square nut. Try adjusting that. Not sure what is causing the pop pop.

    Comment

    • rejeep
      4th Gear
      • Apr 2010
      • 420

      #3
      if something is loose or broken in the parking drum that would cause a repetitive “pop” sound..
      perhaps the adjuster itself is broken causing slack on one of the shoes
      does the noise increase with speed?
      1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
      1974 SIII 109" RHD

      Comment

      • Bostonian1976
        5th Gear
        • Nov 2006
        • 750

        #4
        thanks for the replies. Yeah the popping increases with speed. I then back off the adjustment nut, and it's gone - but I'm back to meager to nonexistent parking brake...
        '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

        Comment

        • LaneRover
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1743

          #5
          Originally posted by Bostonian1976
          thanks for the replies. Yeah the popping increases with speed. I then back off the adjustment nut, and it's gone - but I'm back to meager to nonexistent parking brake...
          Years ago I heard about a guy who had a really hot muscle car. The only way it would pass emissions was to lean it wayyyyy out. he would pull up to the inspection station pop the hood lean it out so much that sometimes it would stall just going up the slight rise in the drive to get it in the inspection area. Upon passing he would pull out, put the mixture back to richer where it would run well - and give lots of power.

          I say drive it close to the inspection station adjust the parking brake and once inspected loosen it up again. That way you have passed inspection and can take your time looking into the problem.

          Or find a more lenient inspection station - I always asked around in Maine!
          1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
          1965 109 SW - nearly running well
          1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
          1969 109 P-UP

          http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

          Comment

          • Bostonian1976
            5th Gear
            • Nov 2006
            • 750

            #6
            so I'm assuming you guys have decent parking brakes when properly adjusted? My other Series....er....aren't fit to compare to, so I have no reference..
            '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

            Comment

            • LaneRover
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1743

              #7
              Sometimes . . .
              1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
              1965 109 SW - nearly running well
              1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
              1969 109 P-UP

              http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

              Comment

              • masonater
                3rd Gear
                • Nov 2007
                • 329

                #8
                Bostonian, I know this doesn't answer your question but im assuming your in MA, on nantucket the inspection guys have never checked the ebrake on any of my series trucks. Could be that they are lazy but maybe try going to another inspection station and maybe they will overlook it.
                1970 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
                1971 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
                1982 Mercedes 300TD
                1989 RRC
                1993 D110
                1994 RRC LWB
                1995 RRC SWB Brooklands Edition
                1995 RRC LWB
                1995 RRC LWB
                1995 Disco
                1996 GMC 2500 Suburban
                1996 Disco
                1997 Disco
                2001 RR P38
                2005 LR3 HSE
                2006 RR HSE

                Comment

                • Bostonian1976
                  5th Gear
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 750

                  #9
                  okay thanks! Every station I've ever taken mine to has frustrated the guys that inspect it because they don't know what to do with it.

                  It's either the owner of the shop yelling at the inspection guy to 'slap a sticker on that thing and get it out of here!' or a complete teardown by another place up in Reading. Maybe I can find a happy medium
                  '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

                  Comment

                  • Terrys
                    Overdrive
                    • May 2007
                    • 1382

                    #10
                    The average inspection monkey doesn't understand that a Land Rover is geared so low in first. I had a CT inpector, in a random roadside stop fail me for the same thing. They want to see the engine stall when the clutch is engaged in first. I re-adjusted it but he wrote it up and I had to go to the DMV. As soon as I passed, I backed the adjuster off.
                    I do the same thing with my 110. When I go for it's bi-annual emissions, I pull over, reset the timing to 8 degrees BTDC, go through, then reset it back to 10. I suspect you'll never find one of these guys listing NASA as a previous employer.

                    Comment

                    • cousindave
                      1st Gear
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 192

                      #11
                      My e bake works really well. Actually its the only thing on her that works perfectly.

                      Comment

                      • gudjeon
                        5th Gear
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 613

                        #12
                        Adjust it just like the manual says, and it will work well. The square nut adjuster sits on a small assembly that is held on by two self lockers and is supposed to "float". This will let it move allowing for anything out of true while maintaining a close tolerance from shoe to drum. Then, when the lever is pulled - a good snug fit is made. It does work, it just has to be set up exactly like it says in the book. The pop-pop-pop sound is probably the shoes gripping when the drum goes round and round and like all things round, the drum is not perfect.

                        Comment

                        • Sputnicker
                          1st Gear
                          • May 2009
                          • 105

                          #13
                          Maybe it's because I use my Rover in the mountains, or perhaps the E-Brake sequence from "The Gods Must be Crazy made an impression," but I rather like having a properly functioning E-Brake. It really comes in handy and I like having a redundant means of stopping - especially in a Series Rover. When set up and adjusted properly, they work well. Why not just fix it?

                          Comment

                          • Bostonian1976
                            5th Gear
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 750

                            #14
                            I'd love to fix it.

                            I don't have the manual, only a restoration manual.

                            Can you recommend how the manual states to adjust it?

                            I assumed it would just be tighten the adjustment nut until tight enough that the brake functions well, but loose enough that it doesn't create drag when the brake is off. Is there a certain procedure I'm missing?
                            '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

                            Comment

                            • westcoastkevin
                              1st Gear
                              • Jan 2011
                              • 162

                              #15
                              I had a car once where I had to spin the distributor a little when getting my emissions cert. Then spin it back again in the car park after getting the papers. :-)

                              Comment

                              Working...