Intake Manifold Sleeve Removal

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  • printjunky
    3rd Gear
    • Jul 2007
    • 325

    Intake Manifold Sleeve Removal

    Anyone know how to remove the "alignment sleeve" from the intake manifold (or here http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-38-manifolds.aspx No. 7, called the "liner"). I haven't really tried removing it yet, but my Rochester is rejetted and ready to go on (so I can come up with some kind of throttle mechanism). But this part (and a cold rain) is impeding my progress.

    Thanks,
    Shawn
  • 69Bugeye
    Low Range
    • May 2009
    • 24

    #2
    Pull...

    Mine was only a slight interference fit and came apart with little effort.
    Yours may have a bit of corrosion or mucky muck keeping it from coming apart easily.

    I think your best bet is to find a way to twist and pull. Of course soaking with mouse milk or any of the other poplular penetrant oils will help also.

    Good luck.
    Beware the lollipop of mediocrity.
    Lick it once, and you'll suck forever.

    Comment

    • printjunky
      3rd Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 325

      #3
      I gave it a pretty good shot, finally, yesterday. No luck. It did NOT budge at all. I know it's not the case, but it's stuck so well, that it appears to be integral to the manifold. Tried heating the manifold a bit, nothing. Tried channel-locks (from about every possible angle), nothing. Tapped on it some, nothing.

      It's soaking in the aforementioned mouse milk (PB Blaster), so I'll check it again this afternoon, but it is in there TIGHT! And I do not want to pull the manifold right now!

      Any other ideas?

      Comment

      • stonefox
        4th Gear
        • Jul 2010
        • 450

        #4
        Originally posted by 69Bugeye
        . Of course soaking with mouse milk or any of the other poplular penetrant oils will help also.

        Good luck.
        Mouse milk? now thats a new one. Growin' up my Grandfather and Dad called it "Panther Piss"
        Sean
        ---------------------------------------------------------------

        1963 88'' IIa daily driver
        1970 88"
        1971 88"
        authenticstoneworks.com

        Comment

        • stomper
          5th Gear
          • Apr 2007
          • 889

          #5


          that is some pretty expensive stuff. does it work better than PB blaster? Wish it was available locally.
          Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

          Comment

          • 69Bugeye
            Low Range
            • May 2009
            • 24

            #6
            re: mousemilk

            Better? Who knows. Never did a side by side comparo.
            23 years in aviation maintenance, the only 2 products I've ever used for penetrant are Mousemilk and Kroil. One or the other will get the job done. Not saying PB won't. I've never used it.
            Beware the lollipop of mediocrity.
            Lick it once, and you'll suck forever.

            Comment

            • Terrys
              Overdrive
              • May 2007
              • 1382

              #7
              Originally posted by printjunky
              Anyone know how to remove the "alignment sleeve" from the intake manifold (or here http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-38-manifolds.aspx No. 7, called the "liner"). I haven't really tried removing it yet, but my Rochester is rejetted and ready to go on (so I can come up with some kind of throttle mechanism). But this part (and a cold rain) is impeding my progress.

              Thanks,
              Shawn
              Why are you removing the liner? It shouldn't extend above the insulator block anyway, so it won't interfere with your Rochester.

              Comment

              • printjunky
                3rd Gear
                • Jul 2007
                • 325

                #8
                Terrys, that's what I thought, but it does stick up above the spacer. And it is seriously STUCK (with a capital expletive deleted), so instead of pulling the manifold (think I could get the sleeve out from below - but man it sure looks integral to the manifold -- though I can tell from feeling inside that it's not.), I'm going to try to make a couple of layers of cork for below the spacer and shim it up enough that way. Seems like it should work.

                btw, thought 69 was referring to some metaphorical Mouse Milk. I like even more that someone called their product that!

                Comment

                • stonefox
                  4th Gear
                  • Jul 2010
                  • 450

                  #9
                  Originally posted by printjunky

                  btw, thought 69 was referring to some metaphorical Mouse Milk. I like even more that someone called their product that!
                  Me too,I guess I showed my redneck upbringing there. Whodathunkit!
                  Sean
                  ---------------------------------------------------------------

                  1963 88'' IIa daily driver
                  1970 88"
                  1971 88"
                  authenticstoneworks.com

                  Comment

                  • Cutter
                    4th Gear
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 455

                    #10
                    I'm not familiar with the assembly you are working on as my truck doesn't have one (I think) but is this something that you could hammer in versus pulling out? Seems like it would be easier to break the seal going in with a hammer.
                    _________________________________________
                    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

                    Comment

                    • Terrys
                      Overdrive
                      • May 2007
                      • 1382

                      #11
                      Originally posted by printjunky
                      Terrys, that's what I thought, but it does stick up above the spacer.
                      Do you have a die grinder or dremel, or some other grinder? Why not just grind it down so it would be flush with the top of the insulating spacer? after you get it to the right height, then just bellmouth the top edge a little. My guess is that it might have been ok as-is if you were using the adapter with a Zenith or Weber. I've had Rochester carbed engines before, but dont ever recall the sleeve being to tsll.

                      Comment

                      • printjunky
                        3rd Gear
                        • Jul 2007
                        • 325

                        #12


                        FYI, here's a great pic that just popped up here of the exact thing I'm referring to, the sleeve sticking up above the spacer. With the Zenith, that angled-in lip fits nicely inside the throat. Not so on the Rochester. But shimming it up with three cork gaskets below the spacer is going to work fine looks like. Got 'em cut today, and I'll put some dressing on them later in the week and install the carb.

                        Then it's on to figuring out a linkage.

                        Comment

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