to brake or not to brake - that is the question

[NickDawson]

Hey folks!
Long time no post. I've enjoyed catching up on the board by reading some threads this morning. Sounds like a lot of familiar conversations - I've missed them.

The good news (knock wood) is that my III is plugging right along. She starts and runs pretty well these days. I started graduate school in January and in addition to my full time job have been pretty busy. Since the rover has been ticking along, I decided not to fiddle with too much and just count my blessings.

Well, I've got the itch again. I'm sure I'll regret even thinking these thoughts...my Rover has a sick sense about my interest in the cosmetic and will often react violently. Nevertheless there are some things I'd like to work on and I need some advice about sequencing and execution. And besides.... I can get a lot of my graduate coursework on audiobooks so I can kill two birds with one stone, right?

Here's the most pressing mechanical concerns:

• Brake adjusters - the front left (passenger side for mine) is rusted solid and stripped. I can probably use a torch and some BP blaster to get it out, but it won't go back into service. I have a line on some new adjusters. This 88" has a 109" front end. Anything I need to know about that operation? The bible makes it look fairly straight forward. Right now, its drivable by me, although stopping at high speed requires a strong mental exercise and physical adjustment of the steering wheel. Not reallllly safe...
• cracked exhaust manifold - hasn't been a real mechanical problem other than it won't pass Virginia inspection. I know the studs are going to snap...just know it. Any concerns about just letting it be for another year or two?
• kock in the rear diff? - a mechanic seemed to think my rear diff had slack and the knock when first engaging 1st was the sign it was going out. That was over a year ago. Is that just drivetrain slack I hear? My inclination is to ignore and then when it does go out, put a detroit locker back there.

Which brings me to what I really want to do... some spit and shine work

• something about the ride - this could also go above. I know its a series rover and I love the bumpy ride, but mine at times feels outright dangerous the way it bounces all over the road. It has parabolics (from the UK, so who knows) and new procomp shocks (from our hosts, installed by me last year). When I hit a pothole it almost feels like we're going to lose control; like the tires aren't making good contact for a split second. If its normal, I can live with it. If its something which is easily correctable, I'd get right on it. 32"ish BFG ATs at 25-30psi
• inside floor board touch up and paint - got a little rust (I know, scary!) on the tunnel cover and floorboards. I'd like to find a way to stop the rust - some kind of sealer? and then get a tunnel cover to match my defender style rubber floor mats from our hosts. Any thoughts?
• inside trim and seats - what I really want! Tired of bare metal doors and the basic bench seats. I'd like to put in two high back seats and get the door trim kit from our hosts. Obviously a low priority considering the brakes, etc. Just adding to the list for thoughts and considerations.
• rear cargo area plan - same as seats. Would like to put down diamond plate. Easier than getting serious about the corrosion holes in the existing bed.

There you have it - my update and burning desire to get my hands dirty again. What do you think? How would you order things and what might you do differently?

Looking forward to catching up with everyone!
-N

[jac04]

Watch out for the contents of the brake adjuster kit. IIRC, you may need more than one kit to do all 4 adjusters on the front axle.

[knac1234]

Nick,

FWIW I don't think the cracked exhaust manifold will do any damage--might be wrong. I just replaced mine....it was a very easy fix. From advice on here, I soaked all the studs and nuts in PB Blaster for a few days. Came off just fine. I did order an exhaust manifold fitting kit, and replaced all studs and nuts at that time, and used antiseize generously on all. I think the cost of the manifold, gasket, and complete new fitting kit came to $130 or so shipped.

Cheers,
Julian

[SafeAirOne]

The good news (knock wood) is that my III is plugging right along. She starts and runs pretty well these days.

Now you've done it! Never even think that everything's OK--It's a sure way to have to walk home next week!

Brake adjusters - the front left (passenger side for mine) is rusted solid and stripped. I can probably use a torch and some BP blaster to get it out,

I'd try to use a cutoff wheel, personally.

cracked exhaust manifold - hasn't been a real mechanical problem other than it won't pass Virginia inspection.

Is it leaking? The only real concern is carbon-monoxiding your passenger.

kock in the rear diff? -

Um...I think it's spelled with a "c"...


...unless you aren't refering to a rooster.

My inclination is to ignore and then when it does go out, put a detroit locker back there.

Good inclination!

at times feels outright dangerous the way it bounces all over the road.

The shocks are resopnsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the road as much as possible. Your vehicle weight (or lack thereof) is probably also contributing (or the spring rate of the parabolics, depending on how you look at it).

inside floor board touch up and paint - got a little rust (I know, scary!) on the tunnel cover and floorboards. I'd like to find a way to stop the rust - some kind of sealer?

I'm a big fan of this rust converter from The Rust Store.

rear cargo area plan- Would like to put down diamond plate. Easier than getting serious about the corrosion holes in the existing bed.

Arghhh! To each their own, I suppose. I just can't stand the sight of diamond plate anywhere on a rover. A nice sheet of .060, .090, or .125 (overkill) 6061-T6 will look original, be strong and be much cheaper that the diamond tread plate (unless you're planning to go with steel tread plate!).

[NickDawson]

Hey folks - see what I mean about that crazy schedule of mine... three months since this thread started and I'm just getting back to it. The good news is that I have my priorities straight now. With MAR in sight in just a few weeks, I want to focus on some things I've been putting off.

For starters, I'm going to order the brake adjuster kit and finally tackle that problem. Jac04 thanks for the tip on the contents of the kit. I'm hopeful to just work on the front right brake before MAR, worry about the rest later.

Now, on to less important, cosmetic things...
I'd like to replace my bottom-of-the-line seats with something high backed... if for nothing else than the semblance of head and neck safety. I see two options:

These guys, are cloth

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-16470-classic-high-back-seat-moorland-defender.aspx

And these are vinyl

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-16574-trakkers-extreme-hi-back-seat-assembly-black-vinyl.aspx

Anyone have any experience and opinions? Other than cost, are they pretty much the same? I like the idea of vinyl's durability and cleanability...but I'm tired of searing the backs of my legs on hot days.

My current seat cushions just kinda sit in place. Do these "install" the same way or do I need some hardware?

Other things in my pre-MAR order include a plasma winch rope since I all but shredded my steel wire up on Shoe Creek recently, these defender style door panels: https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-...eries-iii.aspx (and yes, while I'm not a die hard traditionalist, I am a little worried about all these defender style accessories, we'll see how it all looks) and various light bulbs. Thinking about a Hella setup, but maybe that will wait until next year.

I haven't done anything about the tub yet, when I do I think I'll follow SafeAirOne's suggestion and just get a steel plate. Boom, done.

Mark, thanks also for the tip on Rust Converter, ordering some today.

[RoverForm]

I'd like to replace my bottom-of-the-line seats with something high backed... if for nothing else than the semblance of head and neck safety. I see two options:

These guys, are cloth

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-16470-classic-high-back-seat-moorland-defender.aspx

And these are vinyl

https://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-16574-trakkers-extreme-hi-back-seat-assembly-black-vinyl.aspx

I haven't done anything about the tub yet, when I do I think I'll follow SafeAirOne's suggestion and just get a steel plate. Boom, done.

Mark, thanks also for the tip on Rust Converter, ordering some today.

i had the vinyl seats in my '79 109, and they were excellent for neck and back comfort/safety when compared to the low-back stock seats. i always prefer cloth over vinyl for temperature comfort (which is what i currently have in my '66 88). but the vinyl definitely "looks" more original. if you want the OG look you can get the vinyl and then just put a nice soft, dry, cloth cover over them for summer. but i definitely back the support (no pun) of the defender seats.

and if you're going to put down some plate, as with safeairone, i agree with reducing "diamond" plate on a rover, however, "chequere" plate is perfectly at home anywhere on a rover. so have at it...

[SafeAirOne]

I haven't done anything about the tub yet, when I do I think I'll follow SafeAirOne's suggestion and just get a steel plate. Boom, done.

By "steel", do you mean "aluminum"?

I'd never recommend using steel sheet back there, but a nice sheet of 6061-T6 aluminum or 5052-H32...well that's pure art.

I said that the aluminum sheet would be cheaper than the tread plate you had in mind, unless you had in mind a STEEL tread plate (which is much cheaper, but NOT ADVISED).

[NickDawson]

Thanks Guys - yeah, by steel I do mean aluminum and totally agree regarding the look of diamond plate. I'll give our local metal shop a call and see about a simple plain sheet of aluminum.

Still conflicted on the seats - they may, in fact, take a budgetary backseat to the other stuff like the brake adjusters...those still seem kinda important.

[akrvr]

Rear End Knock

My rear end started to knock when turning left, otherwise it was fine. It was a broken ring gear. When I took it apart, I was amazed that it ran at all!

[NickDawson]

My rear end started to knock when turning left, otherwise it was fine. It was a broken ring gear. When I took it apart, I was amazed that it ran at all!

Well that doesnt bode well...

Fingers crossed that mine will make it through MAR in a few weeks... then I'll take it apart to investigate.

[SalemRover]

109 front brakes are notoriously difficult to bleed. Fixing the adjusters is a great start. Bleeding can be alot easier to do when you have two people on hand. One person to pump the brakes another for bleeding. You can get alot of the air out of the upper wheel cylinder by using the pipe that feeds that cylinder as a bleed screw. It is alot easier to do with the wheel off, making it ideal to tackle when you replacing the adjusters. Take some time and start dousing your brake pipe connectors with pb blaster so you have a chance at freeing them once you try to wrench them.

If your floor has corrosion holes then the supports underneath it are probably shot. Take a gander.

Best of Luck,

Jason