Wheel bearing questions

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  • kwd509
    1st Gear
    • Aug 2010
    • 180

    Wheel bearing questions

    Rebuilding hubs as seals were found to be shot. Many questions but I'll try to limit myself somewhat.
    1- the gasket and seal surfaces. I assume they must be as clean as possible to get best prospect for seal......is it true that even stains on the metal suggest potential for imperfect mating? Is scothbrite the proper tool for cleaning?
    2- the inner races of the bearings must be removed from hub. Are they split with a cold chisel (seems I read this somewhere) or are the pressed out?
    3- in removing one wheel, two lug studs came out of the hub rather than the lug nut coming off. Should I fiddle with separating lug and stud and then try reinstalling studs, or does it make sense just to replace w 2 new studs?
    4- green bible says hubs can/should be converted from 90 wt to grease to reduce leaks..... I have never seen this referenced in the forum. Are folks actually making this conversion? Does it work?
    Lastly, green bible refers to the bearing sleeve, but this appears to be part of the axle casing. What am I missing?
    Thanks.
  • stonefox
    4th Gear
    • Jul 2010
    • 450

    #2
    Originally posted by kwd509
    Rebuilding hubs as seals were found to be shot. Many questions but I'll try to limit myself somewhat.
    1- the gasket and seal surfaces. I assume they must be as clean as possible to get best prospect for seal......is it true that even stains on the metal suggest potential for imperfect mating? Is scothbrite the proper tool for cleaning?
    2- the inner races of the bearings must be removed from hub. Are they split with a cold chisel (seems I read this somewhere) or are the pressed out?
    3- in removing one wheel, two lug studs came out of the hub rather than the lug nut coming off. Should I fiddle with separating lug and stud and then try reinstalling studs, or does it make sense just to replace w 2 new studs?
    4- green bible says hubs can/should be converted from 90 wt to grease to reduce leaks..... I have never seen this referenced in the forum. Are folks actually making this conversion? Does it work?
    Lastly, green bible refers to the bearing sleeve, but this appears to be part of the axle casing. What am I missing?
    Thanks.
    1. emory paper works well
    2. the inner races should not have to come out unless you are going to clean ,inspect and repack the bearings.Just pull the wheel seal and replace.
    3.wheel lugs pulling through is common,dont bother trying to reuse. Replace them with new style splined one.Problem is they will be a little shorter than the others .This can be solved by counter boring them while the hud assembly is off.
    4.I repacked my bearings with grease.
    5.the bearing sleeve you refer to is what the oil seal rides on.It needs to be split off the stub axle with a cold chisel ,very carefully not to damage the axle.At first glance it will look like it is part of the stub axle ,but it does come off.I guess this can be preformed on the vehicle but is easier off the truck A new one should be pressed on. But with out a press handy I have driven it on carefully with the right sized pipe over the axle and a BFH. I have also heated the race and flopped it on while it was expanded, that was by far the easiest way.The trick is getting it hot enough but not too hot and get it firmly seated before it cools .Ive also heard people putting the stub axle in the freezer over night and flopping the bearing sleeve on before it warms up.
    I'm no expert here so others can fill in what I missed or correct me if I've presented bogus info
    Good luck .Its not as complicated as it sounds and when you are done ,you will have a better understanding of that assembly on your truck.
    Sean
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    1963 88'' IIa daily driver
    1970 88"
    1971 88"
    authenticstoneworks.com

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    • kwd509
      1st Gear
      • Aug 2010
      • 180

      #3
      Thank you stone fox,
      Quick followup on item 2.
      Originally posted by stonefox
      2. the inner races should not have to come out unless you are going to clean ,inspect and repack the bearings.Just pull the wheel seal and replace.
      .

      Have one set of spare wheel bearings I had picked up. On inspection of those on truck, I found one outer bearing had a flat spot, and all had significantly more play than the new ones( though wheels turned fairly quietly/smoothly) but long story short, will change bearings while in there....... Therefore, do I take chisel to outer races?
      Thanks....
      Jay

      Comment

      • I Leak Oil
        Overdrive
        • Nov 2006
        • 1796

        #4
        You can press the races out or use a drift and work them out that way. No need to chisel the races.
        As Sean noted, the chisel is for the distance piece that is pressed on the spindle.
        Jason
        "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

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