Electrical advice

[JHK07]

Chasing down gremlin. Keep in mind wiring has been blacked taped/ wire nutted/ spliced/ diced yadda yadda over the years by previous owners.



License plate light no workie. tail light no workie on same side as license plate light. The tail lights are a newer LED version.

So i have one of those electrical testers with a light/ probe/ alligator clip.
But hell, on this alum body... rust covered frame..... well, I can't tell if i am getting a good ground to test if a wire is hot.


From the bible i am assuming(thinking) these 2 are powered from tail light on the opposite side.

My problem is, i have new wires/ old wires/ wires that do nothing/ unfinished projects(phone charger for example) from PO's.


what is the best way to tell what is hot? use my tongue?

Tracing the wires, meh..... not that big of a deal. pretty much completed that.

a friend suggested some #12 thhn stranded hooked to NEG post on battery. Then I can take my ground with me.......


any advice ???? 59 series 2 thanks

[4flattires]

...a friend suggested some #12 thhn stranded hooked to NEG post on battery. Then I can take my ground with me.......

Sage advice...

I would take the time though to find a ground closer to the circuit in question. After all, it just may be the ground that is at issue.

[JHK07]

The grounds were the 1st thing I checked. They seem to be the newest/ cleanest connections I have.

[SafeAirOne]

Your brake lights and trun signals are also grounded back there. If they work, then the tub is grounded properly (since the ground is a metal clip screwed to the tub). The problem is usually in the connector-to-metal clip continuity.

Just use the probe to poke through to the aluminum of the tub and use the clip to make contact with the positive contact on the light socket. Make sure the light switch is on.

I personally don't like the test probe. A cheap ($10-20) multimeter with an audible continuity tester is much better, IMO. If it beeps, you have a good electrical path between the 2 probes. If it doesn't beep, you don't. Plus, you can still test for 12v with it.

[JHK07]

Your brake lights and trun signals are also grounded back there. If they work, then the tub is grounded properly (since the ground is a metal clip screwed to the tub). The problem is usually in the connector-to-metal clip continuity.

Just use the probe to poke through to the aluminum of the tub and use the clip to make contact with the positive contact on the light socket. Make sure the light switch is on.

I personally don't like the test probe. A cheap ($10-20) multimeter with an audible continuity tester is much better, IMO. If it beeps, you have a good electrical path between the 2 probes. If it doesn't beep, you don't. Plus, you can still test for 12v with it.

good point. the turn signals are grounded (along with the tail lamps right on the tub) Turn signals are fine. Which further leads me to believe I am losing power from the "working" tail light to the other side "non working".

I do have a multi meter. I wish it had alligator clips ! It is really a mess underneath each wheel well. Black tape with finger wound connections.... sometimes 3 ways. some green conections from corrosion.... fun fun

[rickv100]

I made up some leads with alligator clips at either end. That way I can clip to a circuit and clip to the leads on the multi-meter to extend my reach.

You can get the alligator clips at Radio Shack.

Rick

[Les Parker]

A worthy peice of advice after electrical repairs, before you connect the battery, test the circuits by connecting a battery charger, 2 amps setting should suffice. Then, if there still any faults, only a small amount of smoke will be emitted, not vast plumes !

[JHK07]

Case closed. Had a bad "hand" connection that was corroded. Also had broken connection at one of those 4 way whatever connectors. (black rectangle) I bypassed/ spliced it.


good advice, made a ground from #12 THHN at the Tub where tail lights/blinkers ground. That along with some alligator clip extensions w/ muti meter.


thanks, jhk