200 TDI into a Series IIA
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The Toltec Coffee fleet....
96 FZJ80: 3XL, lifted, and shaved
94 FZJ 80: our Costa Rican coffee and surf mobile
70 Series IIA 88: After 18 months of wrenching, its alive and legal to drive!
70 Series IIA 88: in US on H-1B visa
56 Series I 86: a whole new type of rover hell.... -
The 200 Tdi comes in two flavors, Defender and Disco/RRC. The Defender versions have all been poached for their intake/exhaust manifolds and finding one that hasn't is a daunting task. So, you are left with a Disco/RRC version to attempt to put into a Series.
By the way it is highly recommended that you go ahead and upgrade to a R380/Lt230 gearbox and transfer case in order to save huge amounts of headache. If you do you must purchase the short bellhousing in order for the engine to sit far enough back in the frame. You'll also have to mod the frame for the transmission mounts and probably have to remove the crossmember to make it easier to remove.
The Series gearbox is not only weaker, but the gearing is so low that you will find yourself winding it up too high on the road (like topping out the engine at 65 when you really want one more gear). Maybe the Ashcroft high ratio box is an option, but if you do that you might as well go with the R380, but I digress...
The first problem you will face is the steering if your truck is left hand steer.
The Series steering box is right where the turbo is, so one of them will have to move. Since you can't get the Defender manis, you'll best be served by converting to power steering either with the Range Rover box or a Saginaw box from a Scout. In either of those cases you will have to alter the steering column to be able to adapt it to the new steering shaft. Fortunately the 200 tdi has a PAS pump, so it isn't too big a deal once you work out the steering thing. You'l need to find a place for the reservoir and the hoses/plumbing. You also need a new track rod made.
Second issue is the cooling and intercooler for the turbo. The easiest thing is to use a Disco Tdi radiator and inter cooler as these will fit between the fenders, but the tins behind the breakfast are in the way so they must go. You should fab some sort of cross brace for the top of the radiator and for the top part of the breakfast tin to attach so that you can keep the original bonnet latch. The Bonnet prop rod can stay if you do the cross brace thing properly. Now if you are doing a 2A with lights in the breakast you will want to get the plastic buckets. Next is to find the correct fan shroud or use a Disco one with an electric puller fan (that's what I'm doing) but you'll have to modify it to take the generic fan.
You will need to redo the throttle pedal as the Tdi uses a cable type throttle pull. It may be possible to adapt the mechanical linkage, but a Defender pedal could be used if you somehow rework the mounting bracket to fit the Series footwell. I dunno I thought that it was too much and I hate the D pedal anyway so I'm doing a modified linkage.
You can keep the Series brakes, but I would at least upgrade to discs up front which is yet again a whole 'nother bunch of mods.
On to the chassis. If I am not mistaken the Series engine mounts have to come off, but I guess that depends on a lot of stuff and you may be able to keep them. If you upgrade to the R380 you will lose the cross bar for the hand brake and you will have to use one from a Defender. There may be fit problems with the front cross member and it may need to be notched.
I think you'll also find, if you go with the 5 speed, that your front floor tins are all wrong.
Exhaust. As mentioned before the turbo is a problem and with a Series frame it will hit the frame. You will need to make a small adapter to move the turbo up and away from the frame. The pipe. It can go one of two ways. You can run it out thru the wing like the Series diesels do or under the truck like on coilers. The Series frame is made for the exhaust to run outside the frame rail, so this might be the least painful way to go but will require an adapter for the turbo to pipe. A regular Series exhaust will be too restrictive so you'll have to make one up from scratch.
Lots of other little stuff like the speedo, wiring, fuel plumbing, and you'll want to add an EGT gauge and maybe a tach.
Over and above that the axles are still ten spline so you may wish to install late RRC diffas with 24 splines and the uprated axle shafts from GBR.
If that's a "drop in" to you then I guess it's a drop in.Comment
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In addition to what o2batsea said above, the 109 has a taller frame up front than the 88. The Disco turbo and the top of the 109 frame want to occupy the same space unless you raise the engine up a little.
I have heard a rumor that the 300tdi manifolds will work with a 200tdi as well as the 300tdi cylinder head (the 200tdi head is NLA) but have not confirmed it.
A transfercase high ratio conversion is quite strong & with an otherwise stock drive train will put you at about 2650 RPM @ 65 MPH with 33 inch dia tyres.
The Roverdrive and the Heystee overdrive can easily handle the power of the tdi's.
The LT77 is not much stronger than the Series box. The LT77S is the one to get or the stronger R380. If you go with the R380 you should go with the newer 300tdi as they have the same bell housing bolt pattern.
Ashcroft transmissions makes a five speed Series adapter kit for connecting a LT77 or R380 to a Series transfercase.
They also make part time 4WD kits for converting a LT230 to part time 4WD.
Don't forget that the gearing in a LT230 is VERY different from Series transfercase gearing. If you go to a LT230 you will need to convert to 3.45 R&P gearing.
I don't remember anyone saying a 2.25L petrol to tdi was a drop in conversion. But once done it is a heck of an improvement as long as the drive train is also addressed.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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I'm avoiding the whole adapting thing by switching to a coil chassis. You can keep up with the progress on D90 in the build ups section.Comment
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I must say that this conversion is not for the faint of heart. I too was going to coil my frame to handle a pair of D1 axles to compensate for the bonus torque of the 200tdi. I spoke with Ike and had a change of heart. Less to go wrong sticking with parabolics. So I modified the axles to fit the Series. Engine mount needs to be moved four inches (100mm) forward on passengar/right side. Left is fine. Better to upgrade to the LT77, but even better to get a stubby R380. Mine was shipped from Ashcrofts and arrived in three days to Vegas... Plumbing is an issue with regard to the Intercooler. I put on a Saginaw box, so the cooler situation is moved to the right. It fits, just a little off-set towards the rear. Must have an electric fan. Picked up a Defender pedal and the mod. is easy following the post on TeriAnn's site. Issue concerns drive line. Need shafts to fit. According to those across the pond, Defender front shaft will fit, but the diameter is fairly stout. Many like to have Disco shafts modified since they are skinnier in order to lessen the opportunity of hitting the engine cross member (which also has to be modified) during articulation. Ultimately, when doing this type of an upgrade, one is not reinventing the wheel. This has been done across the Pond for quite a while. Issue for us here is the steering upgrade, it gums up the works. It just takes time and M-O-N-E-Y. Until my Rover runs, it is an extremely expensive paperweight.Comment
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There are lots of companies in the States that make custom drive shafts to your specification. Stock Series shafts have a short slip joint and the yolks are not high angle. You can do a lot better by going with custom shafts.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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Im still asking, whats so bad with the 200TDI minus the turbo? Or a 200DI. I know it wont set land speed records, but an improvement over the petrol lump. It should fit, with standard trans etc. with little modification and a rebuild should last a long time, and get great milage, and some added grunt offroad.Comment
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The Toltec Coffee fleet....
96 FZJ80: 3XL, lifted, and shaved
94 FZJ 80: our Costa Rican coffee and surf mobile
70 Series IIA 88: After 18 months of wrenching, its alive and legal to drive!
70 Series IIA 88: in US on H-1B visa
56 Series I 86: a whole new type of rover hell....Comment
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I don't think anyone said it's bad. It just seems to be a fair amount of work for not much perceived benefit in power. If you're after better mileage then it could be a good fit. If you're after a money savings, you'll probably have to drive it a good long time to make up for the cost of the transplant. Durability? Better than a 2.25p but again, you'll have to drive it for a very long time to make up for the difference. Cool factor? Absolutely. Good, bad or indifferent...it all depends on what YOU want out of it. Your truck, if you want a 200DI then go for it!Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club presidentComment
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We are using a 300 manifold which moves the location of the turbo so that shouldn't be an issue. I already have the ashcroft conversion and 24 spline axels. The front disk conversion is already planned and parts ordered so that is not so bad. I would actualy like the powersteering conversion as well but will have to find the right box and parts. The rad and intercooler are from a Disco so the mods there are do able. Never new about the problem witht he gas pedal thanks for the heads up. We have a couple of parts Defenders so I will need to rob parts for that. I was told the engine mounts would fit for the 200. Did you just cut off and move or put on a new mount? The Motor and parts are showing up here this week with the works scheduled to start the following week. Even if it is a lot more work than I was origionaly led to believe it is still a major improvement in power, torque and best of best I can make my own fuel.....Driving for free1968 Series IIA
1987 D90 Kid's project
German wirehair Pointer (Wood Hound)Comment
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You'll be fine. You're not doing anything that hundreds of people haven't done before you.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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I was hoping this was thecase kinda getting a little nervous reading some of the posts here. No matter what it will be worth it to not have to shift down to second and crawl up the big hills doing 20MPH with semis pissed at me.1968 Series IIA
1987 D90 Kid's project
German wirehair Pointer (Wood Hound)Comment
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