Newbies To Do List - Help!

[sandythelandy]

Hi All -

I've already asked a few questions but I have been very busy up to this point so haven't gotten anything done yet. I've had my 74 landy for about 3 months now and I would like to change all the fluids I can so I can keep track of leaks, etc. The only thing I have ever done on any cars I've owned is changed the oil, battery, air filters, an done radiator hose! So needles to say, I'm a newbie so I need all the help I can get. Sorry for the long post!

My list:

Transfer case sump gasket change - mine is very leaky (at least I hope it's the gasket). Is this pretty simple? I've already got my new gasket from RN and GL4 gear oil and I'm going to get some Hylomar. Anything else I need to know?

Transmission fluid change - pretty simple, eh? I just need a pump to get the fluid in? Do I need to replace the drain gasket after I drain it?

Differential fluid change - I don't even know where to begin here. All I know is that I should change it, eh? Where do I start? I use the same GL4, right? Do I need to change seals/gaskets when I drain them?

Coolant flush - I've already asked about this one. Anyone have favorite products?

Anything else I should do? It seems to run well other than my inability to master double clutching - any tips?

[Jim-ME]

The transfer case is fairly straight forward. Remove the nuts from the studs, drop the cover, clean the cover and the contact area on the transfercase, put the cover back on. I personally would recommend Permatex Ultra-Black over Hylomar but that is just one opinion.

A plastic pump for putting oil in boat motor lower unit works slick. It screws onto a Qt. bottle and you pump it like a soap dispenser. You will find that the drain gasket is a crush washer. I replace them they are cheap enough. There are some that reuse them and others that rejuvenate them. I don't like leaks so I take no chances and replace them. After all you aren't going to be draining and refilling these units as frequently as you will be changing motor oil.

No gaskets to replace in the diffs just another crush washer on the drain plug on the bottom of the diff housing. These can be a pain to get out depending how long they have been in.

Jim

[Billy5]

Hello,,
I am newbie too. Welcome! I have a 69 series 2a. Since I have been doing the same to mine I will share what I have done. I bought a five gallon bucket with a hose and curved spout at the end. This is much easier, just hook the spout in the fill opening and pump the handle. Cheap, not really, but as it was said we change the fluids here as often as oil so I made it easier on my self. The drain plugs on the diffs, have a slot instead of hex head, I bought a large 1/2 in drive screwdriver bit to help, but they also make a tool for them. Yes, they can be hard to get out, depending on how well it was maintained before you. You may want to run some gear oil through them without the plug to flush. The radiator flush, i havent done yet, I may buy a new on as mine is original, but not sure yet. I have seen someone say there is a petcock on the block, and to crack this open while running water/cleaner through it. What ever you do, dont put those radiator repair powders down there. Some have just drained all the radiator coolant out, filled with water and cleaner, ran it, then drained and refilled with proper coolant mix. Double cluthing took me a few days to get down. Now its just the 3-2 downshift..lol. But I think series 3 111s have fully synchro transmissions so I am not sure if you have to double clutch. Good luck, let me know how you make out.

[SafeAirOne]

All the maintenance you ask about is very basic. You can't really go wrong following the advise here.

The only thing I might add is in reference to the oil dispenser. The BEST, most painless and clean system I've ever seen to do this task is a simple insectiside sprayer sold at the big box hardware/lumber stores.

All you need to do is remove the sprayer wand and add a short length of hose in its place, fill it with gear oil, then pump it up.

When you're on your back under the rover trying to fill everything, you're not fiddling around with pump handles. Just squeeze the trigger and oil comes out. Let the trigger go and it stops.

[Jim-ME]

Got to try the sprayer trick. Thanks Mark!
Jim

[artpeck]

Napa sells a pump for only a few $ that screws onto a gallon gear oil jug, has a barbed nozzle that stays in the fill hole and accurately measures quantiy with each pump. Hard to beat when you are under the truck.

[SafeAirOne]

Got to try the sprayer trick. Thanks Mark!
Jim

Actually I saw graniterover use this setup to fill his swivels. Very clean and painless!

[fishguy]

The only thing I might add is in reference to the oil dispenser. The BEST, most painless and clean system I've ever seen to do this task is a simple insectiside sprayer sold at the big box hardware/lumber stores.

All you need to do is remove the sprayer wand and add a short length of hose in its place, fill it with gear oil, then pump it up.

Thanks x2!! Mark

@Sandy and Billy for the diffs you will find an open end wrench will fit in the slot nicely like you were using it to clean it out...it will make sense when you try it. Use the largest one that will fit.

[sandythelandy]

Thanks for all the help. I'm also changing the spark plugs. I bought the plugs from RN after figuring out I had a 7:1 compression head, not an 8:1. Any hints?

I do have a SIII but the PO swapped out the transmission to one from a SIIa, so I still have to double clutch in second.

I'll check out the pumps and see what I can get. Thanks!