Series 2A front brake cylinder leaking

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  • Skookumchuck
    2nd Gear
    • Oct 2010
    • 269

    Series 2A front brake cylinder leaking

    Well I was driving out to the range last night to do some shooting and when I went to slow down to turn the pedel went to the floor and the Rover kept going. Long story short got it home and the inside of the front passenger tire was covered in brake fluid. this morning I took off the tire and drum but noticed that my brake set up uses 2 brake wheel cylinders not one. the bottom cylinder is leaking from the piston the top is ok. I need to rebuild the cylinders but the local parts store is looking at 6-8 weeks delivery for a rebuild kit. Should I rebuild the cylinders or just replace them?
    1968 Series IIA
    1987 D90 Kid's project
    German wirehair Pointer (Wood Hound)
  • jac04
    Overdrive
    • Feb 2007
    • 1884

    #2
    The 11" front brakes use 2 cylinders - one top & one bottom. I suggest just replacing them unless the bores are perfect. Since you need to bleed the system, just replace both cylinders. If the shoes are saturated with brake fluid, replace them as well. Save yourself a lot of headaches and buy either Mintex or Genuine shoes,

    RN should have all the parts you need in stock.

    Comment

    • Skookumchuck
      2nd Gear
      • Oct 2010
      • 269

      #3
      Here are some pictures of the Brake set up it is different than what is in my manual.
      1968 Series IIA
      1987 D90 Kid's project
      German wirehair Pointer (Wood Hound)

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        Originally posted by Skookumchuck
        Here are some pictures of the Brake set up it is different than what is in my manual.

        Look under the 109 brake section. You'll see that setup there.
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • SalemRover
          3rd Gear
          • Aug 2007
          • 310

          #5
          Just to throw a wrench in the mix, wouldn't it be a better to have the leaking ones resleeved and then rebuilt? You will spend more 20-30$ more per cylinder but end up with a longer lasting unit. I was thinking of doing this for the next time.

          Comment

          • Skookumchuck
            2nd Gear
            • Oct 2010
            • 269

            #6
            Why is it that your Rover always breaks down on Friday afternoon when everything is already closed and you can't even order parts until Monday?

            Anyway thanks for the advice, I am going to replace all 4 front wheel cylenders as well as new shoes. I was planning to do the disc brake conversion at some time in the future. If I wasn't swaping out the gas for a 200 TDI I would do that conversion right now.
            1968 Series IIA
            1987 D90 Kid's project
            German wirehair Pointer (Wood Hound)

            Comment

            • cedryck
              5th Gear
              • Sep 2010
              • 836

              #7
              Be wise,
              Brake fluid contamination, (as well as 90W) contamination can be a nusciance as well as a danger to proper braking, good advice to replace with(new)components anything contaminated with fluids that will make contact, ie: shoes, and drum. I experienced 90w contamination of a drum, and braking was quite scary, I mean seriously grabbing brakes.

              Comment

              • o2batsea
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1199

                #8
                So long as you have the drum off, go ahead and replace the hub seal and distance piece.
                Just wash all the parts in clean brake fluid and reassemble. You'll be good.

                Comment

                • chrismccarthy
                  Low Range
                  • May 2008
                  • 55

                  #9
                  Originally posted by o2batsea
                  So long as you have the drum off, go ahead and replace the hub seal and distance piece.
                  Just wash all the parts in clean brake fluid and reassemble. You'll be good.
                  I'm finishing my complete brake job, although very slowly. I had no leaks, just old parts that had sat for 40 years. I did not see anything about replacing the front seal and what is the 'distance piece'?
                  67 NADA 109 SW, 97 XD, an ABARTH (wife's), 2004 Evo RS, and two Alfas

                  Comment

                  • SafeAirOne
                    Overdrive
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 3435

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chrismccarthy
                    what is the 'distance piece'?
                    That metal ring that the hub seal seals around and the inner wheel bearing sits against.
                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                    Comment

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