Sandy the landy is dying

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  • sandythelandy
    Low Range
    • Aug 2011
    • 41

    Sandy the landy is dying

    After spending an entire week (12+ hours a day) working on my land rover getting ready for moving, all of a sudden she starts to die when idling. When I started the week, she ran pretty well but I still thought I should change the spark plugs since I didn’t know when the last time they were changed. I changed the spark plugs and gapped them per the green bible at the start of the week. Just before I lose power, the engine runs really well, much better then before I changed them out, but it still dies.

    On a side, possibly related note, it doesn’t start first time and often not the second time despite a brand new starter

    Any ideas?

    Thanks
    1974 - Series III 88" in Limestone (Sandy)
  • mongoswede
    5th Gear
    • May 2010
    • 757

    #2
    fuel pump?

    Comment

    • artpeck
      3rd Gear
      • Dec 2009
      • 368

      #3
      Sounds fuel starved. Filter? Low gas so gunk sucked up? Fuel pump? Could be a float issue also but try the easier stuff first.
      1995 NAS D-90 Soft Top, AA Yellow
      1973 Series III '88 Hard Top, Limestone
      1957 Series I, Deep bronze green

      Comment

      • Ncrover725
        2nd Gear
        • Jun 2011
        • 259

        #4
        Signal

        I had a like problem when I was not maintaining signal from the coil to the distributor. I had a bad solder joint in the low tension lead. I thought it was a fuel problem for two days. After taking apart the majority of the fuel system along I95 I was helped out by Tim Smith in Ct who found it very quickly and got me back on the road.
        1971 Ex Mod IIA 109
        1985 D110
        1998 D1 (Sold)

        Comment

        • sandythelandy
          Low Range
          • Aug 2011
          • 41

          #5
          Originally posted by mongoswede
          fuel pump?
          Could this still be true if she runs fine while I'm driving? I would say it's a bit more sluggish then when I first got it, but only is really a problem when I'm at a stop light or at an intersection.
          1974 - Series III 88" in Limestone (Sandy)

          Comment

          • sandythelandy
            Low Range
            • Aug 2011
            • 41

            #6
            Originally posted by Ncrover725
            I had a like problem when I was not maintaining signal from the coil to the distributor. I had a bad solder joint in the low tension lead. I thought it was a fuel problem for two days. After taking apart the majority of the fuel system along I95 I was helped out by Tim Smith in Ct who found it very quickly and got me back on the road.
            it's got a pretty new distributor cap, would the low tension lead be replaced if the distributor cap was? I'll try to figure out which lead it is.

            Thanks
            1974 - Series III 88" in Limestone (Sandy)

            Comment

            • Apis Mellifera
              3rd Gear
              • Apr 2008
              • 386

              #7
              How's the coil? I've had MGs (that use the same coil) do that when coil heats up. Typically the plugs will show incomplete combustion with a weak coil.

              However given your description, could it be heat soak. If the fuel vaporizes in the carb, you could get poor running and difficulty starting. That would also be more prone at low/no speed when there isn't enough air flow through the engine compartment.
              © 1974 Apis Mellifera. Few rights preserved.

              Comment

              • sandythelandy
                Low Range
                • Aug 2011
                • 41

                #8
                Originally posted by Apis Mellifera
                How's the coil? I've had MGs (that use the same coil) do that when coil heats up. Typically the plugs will show incomplete combustion with a weak coil.

                However given your description, could it be heat soak. If the fuel vaporizes in the carb, you could get poor running and difficulty starting. That would also be more prone at low/no speed when there isn't enough air flow through the engine compartment.
                You'll have to excuse my ignorance, but I'm brand new to anything dealing with cars! I assume you're talking about the ignition coil, correct? Is there a way of checking the coil or to see if I have "heat soak? I know it's had a new carb in the recent past. I know the easiest thing would be to take it to a land rover shop but I really got my landy rover so I could learn and so I might not have to pay someone $100 an hour!
                1974 - Series III 88" in Limestone (Sandy)

                Comment

                • Apis Mellifera
                  3rd Gear
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 386

                  #9
                  Yes, ignition coil. This will be a worthwhile read:
                  Learn how to do just about everything at ehow. Find expert advice along with How To videos and articles, including instructions on how to make, cook, grow, or do almost anything.


                  By heat soak, I mean the engine heating up components beyond their working capacity. This could be an overheated coil or a carb that is hot enough to cause the fuel inside to boil aka vapor lock.

                  Those are just guesses, by the way. There are many little things that can cause rough running. They are easy to test and fix. However, if you're just starting these are "unknown unknowns". Don't worry, if you and the truck survive, eventually you'll be able to diagnose faults by sound and will have the fix in mind automatically.
                  © 1974 Apis Mellifera. Few rights preserved.

                  Comment

                  • Ncrover725
                    2nd Gear
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 259

                    #10
                    "Red Wire"

                    I have attached a photo of what electrical problem has caused me to believe I had a fuel problem. The photo is of my 25D distributor with the cap off. I have inserted a red line box into the photo so you should be able to identify the wire I am talking about. Tim Smith from Ct showed me this after hours and hours of working on my suspected fuel problem. Once he applied some more solder it has worked great.
                    1971 Ex Mod IIA 109
                    1985 D110
                    1998 D1 (Sold)

                    Comment

                    • sandythelandy
                      Low Range
                      • Aug 2011
                      • 41

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Ncrover725
                      I have attached a photo of what electrical problem has caused me to believe I had a fuel problem. The photo is of my 25D distributor with the cap off. I have inserted a red line box into the photo so you should be able to identify the wire I am talking about. Tim Smith from Ct showed me this after hours and hours of working on my suspected fuel problem. Once he applied some more solder it has worked great.
                      Thanks for the help. I got a little worried as I needed my land rover (it's my only car) to move back to Asheville from Charlotte. I didn't actually do anything but make sure all the spark plug wires were tight and I found that wire you were talking about and wiggled it around a bit to make sure it was tight. I put everything back together and now it's running the best it has in the 4 months I've owned it. Now driving up 26 with it full of furniture and what not is another story. It was struggling in 3rd to get up the mountain!

                      Thanks again for everyone’s help
                      1974 - Series III 88" in Limestone (Sandy)

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