running hot

[Sputnicker]

If it's pinging it's too far advanced. Timing an electronic distributor is no different than one with points. Loosen the clamp and turn the bottom of the distributor body. Use a light, or just retard it until the pinging goes away. Then see what your temperature does.

[jac04]

I guess this is what confused me. I would think "Proper level" is empty.

Well, I checked the Green Bible. The black tank is technically called an expansion tank (ET). The tank is supposed to have fluid in it - the manual says to maintain about 1/4 full.

When the system gets hot and the rating of the cap is exceeded, the main spring on the radiator cap compresses and allows fluid to escape into the ET. Note that the hose from the radiator is plumbed to a fitting that leads to the bottom of the ET, and the overflow tube exits from the top. When the system cools, it creates a vacuum that can open the secondary valve on the radiator cap and fluid is pulled from the bottom of the ET back into the radiator. There should be some level of fluid in the ET so that air is not introduced into the system.

I believe this type of overflow system was used to keep toxic antifreeze from being dumped on the ground. My old 63 IIA and my 68 Camaro both have systems without overflow bottles. They would spit out a little fluid and then be fine. Not sure if the caps didn't have the secondary valve, but there seemed to be no ill effects of not having an expansion tank system.

[JimCT]

expansion tank

It is to keep the radiator full of antifreeze and not air, when the coolant contracts it draws the coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank.

[siii8873]

yea I know turning the distributor adjust the timing. With points I install a test light from points lead to ground and turn engine and see where the light lights in relation to TDC and adjust accordingly. In this condition none of the mechanical or vacuum systems are in use.
When doing a dynamic timing the vacuum systems will be in operation so I wouldn't think it should be set the same. That is what I would like to know is if anyone knows what settings when using a light.
Thanks

[siii8873]

Update
Pulled the T-Stat out this last weekend. Tested it and it opens. Adjusted the timing a few times with test runs. Improvement in pinging but cannot get rid of it completly. Could this be corrected with a hotter spark plug maybe.
I installed an 82deg TStat and this with the timing has reduced the temperature some.

[LaneRover]

Have you checked to see if the weights in the mechanical advance portion of the distributor have full movement?

[siii8873]

Ran the truck again today. The gauge is still reading higher than it historically did 2/3 way up from white cold band to red hot band. I checked the radiator after running it up to temp. Top is very warm and bottom is cold.
I am running an 82 deg stat which I checked in a pan of water and it opens. From driving this truck every day for over 1-1/2 years fjust seems something a little off.

[jac04]

Bob-
Did you ever figure out why the gauge was reading high?

I just drained & refilled my Lightweight because I had to replace a leaky hose. Nice & cool outside. Ran the vehicle until the gauge came up to normal range. Never really checked before, but the top radiator hose is hot, bottom is cool. Must mean the radiator is doing its job quite well (I'm sure the 8-bladed military fan helps as well). This leads me to believe that your gauge may be off.

[siii8873]

Jeff, thanks. I had done the same thing with my 109, drove to work and checked the top and bottom hoses after fully warmed up, Top very warm and bottom nearly cold, about same as the 88 I'm troubleshooting. Right now I'm thinking it's the gauge also. Can't change them as one is capillary and one electric. I'm driving it.

UPDATE:
pretty sure I have a gauge/sender or voltage stabilizer problem. Yesterday it was in the high 30's when I got into the truck. Started it and lokked at the temp gauge. It was registering just above the white with a cold engine.

I do have a problem w/ my fueal gauge when it gets a little below a 1/4 tank also. It will stay flat for a while then shake like crazy and then stabilize out. Understand that this could be a volt stabilizer problem.

[disco2hse]

You can stick a thermometer in the radiator while the engine is running. Shouldn't be run over 95ºC IIRC. It might boil a bit without the pressure cap on so watch out for that.

Your other alternative is to get a gauge with numbers on it.