2.25 not firing 3&4 ?

[Lance]

3&4 had spark but would not fire (ignite), when I pulled the wires off of those cylinders it never changed but I had good spark. I had everything it needed to run but it just wouldn't run. The hole (I never found it) is inside the "box" where the two manifolds bolt together and the exhaust passes through to warm the intake air. By blocking off that open space & isolating the intake the leak is plugged. YaaHooo

[SafeAirOne]

A leak caused spark plugs #3 and 4 to not spark unless you disconnected plugs #1 & 2 ?????

[Lance]

It is Fixed !!!!!!! The short of it is there was a leak in the bottom of the intake manifold where the exhaust preheats the intake air. The fix was to make a plate between the two manifolds. Basiclly isolating the two. Thats it! Thanks to all of you guys for helping me. Cant wait to drive it, it's been months!! Just in time for the snow!

[mongoswede]

Sounds good, Even though it isn't running good & is very weak on power right now I don't see any reason why I couldn't drive it on short local trips to help break it in. Any thoughts.

vary the rpm and use the full rpm range. dont sit at any one rpm for a long time. after the first 500 miles change the oil.

[Lance]

Sounds good, Even though it isn't running good & is very weak on power right now I don't see any reason why I couldn't drive it on short local trips to help break it in. Any thoughts.

[Terrys]

I only skimmed the first 4 pages, but it sounds like you haven't found the problem. I can say with some certainty that it has nothing to do with your cam, jumping timing or whatever. My initial thought was blown head gasket between 3&4, but your compressions are good. If you have spark at the plug wires,and it's running on 1&2, but it's not running on 3&4, I'd look to see if those 2 plugs are fouled.

[SafeAirOne]

Also, you dont want to idle the engine to break it in, you want to drive it under different RPMs so the rings will seat.

I agree--Find out how to properly break in an engine and follow those procedures closely. Doing it improperly could have a lasting effect on an engine's health and lifespan. Varying the RPMs is only one aspect of a proper break-in. There are other factors including pressure that you can't duplicate on an ordinary engine test stand (or sitting in an unfinished chassis).

[albersj51]

If I'm wrong someone will correct me. as I understand, you won't get optimal compression until the rings are fully and properly seated. Also, there was a thread on GnR about checking compression on these motors, may want to check it out.

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?1247-Compression-Numbers

Also, you dont want to idle the engine to break it in, you want to drive it under different RPMs so the rings will seat.

Best of luck.

[Lance]

No, I have only run it a few hours in the driveway but the compression is less then it was when I first put it back together. I just thought 110 was low for new rings but I really don't know.

[mongoswede]

I just checked compression again & it looks like to me that my compression is going down from when I checked it a few weeks ago??? The head is newly rebuilt, the cylinders honed with new rings. The readings I got today are the lowest I have seen. #1=110 #2=110 #3=118 #4=110 seems really low to me. Do the new rings need to break in?

the purpose of honing is to apply a cross hatch pattern to the cylinder walls. The cross hatch is a roughing of the cylinder walls that is designed help wear the rings to the cylinder walls. I have heard all sorts of break in procedures for newly rebuilt engines. have you done any sort of break in on your new engine?

[albersj51]

Its my understanding that yes, the rings do need to seat in the bore before they seal properly.

[Lance]

I just checked compression again & it looks like to me that my compression is going down from when I checked it a few weeks ago??? The head is newly rebuilt, the cylinders honed with new rings. The readings I got today are the lowest I have seen. #1=110 #2=110 #3=118 #4=110 seems really low to me. Do the new rings need to break in?

[stomper]

I would stay away from the dealer on this issue. you are better off finding an older gentleman who owns an independent garage. Dealer technicians don't seem to know how to diagnose anything that doesn't have a computer port on it, and they are only capable of swapping out parts, not always fixing the problem.

Search the yellow pages for a classic car shop or a british car shop in your area.

[Lance]

I changed the coil awhile ago, I have other coils I can try.
I'm totally out of ideas. I have talked to the Land Rover dealer about it but I have my doubts that they will find anything, they work on all new stuff & at $135.00 per hour it will get real expensive real fast. Would they have magic equipment that could diagnos this?

[Apis Mellifera]

Have you changed the coil since this started or are you still using the Pertronix?