Starter Woes?

[LandRoverRo]

Symptoms are: parked car at shops after running fine. No hesitation in starting or signs of low battery at all over last 2 weeks.
Came out of store to start car and solenoid click but nothing else. Headlights are bright, fan works, all electrical working and seemingly strong.
Thinking my starter motor went kaput.

Next question is: can an automotive electrical shop rebuild these starters? Mine is a motor from an '85/'86 Sherpa/Rover 2.5l diesel.

My only other noted symptom is I felt like the car had a vibration on accelleration and deccelleration. THinking this is drivetrain-related and not related at all to the starter issue, but could it possibly be something to do with flywheel/starter gear mesh?

TIA.

[singingcamel]

Symptoms are: parked car at shops after running fine. No hesitation in starting or signs of low battery at all over last 2 weeks.
Came out of store to start car and solenoid click but nothing else. Headlights are bright, fan works, all electrical working and seemingly strong.
Thinking my starter motor went kaput.

Next question is: can an automotive electrical shop rebuild these starters? Mine is a motor from an '85/'86 Sherpa/Rover 2.5l diesel.

My only other noted symptom is I felt like the car had a vibration on accelleration and deccelleration. THinking this is drivetrain-related and not related at all to the starter issue, but could it possibly be something to do with flywheel/starter gear mesh?

TIA.

i would clean all connections to your starter, make sure things are tight,you may have a loose connection.
can be rebuilt.

[badvibes]

Start with easy stuff, check the battery posts/connections. Are they clean and solid. Look for corrosion. Make sure all ground straps are the same. Have had a battery cable corrode inside the insulation that caused a similar problem. Cable looked fine but when you grabbed it the insulation just collapsed in your hand, all the wire inside was basically gone. I've also run extra ground straps (my truck has had a + to - conversion done) from the battery to the frame, engine to frame, body to frame, distributor to frame. I went thru a period where it seemed all my gremlins were electrical. Maybe overkill and ground straps by themselves didn't solve my gremlins but I haven't had any problems (just cursed myself didn't I?) since fixing my distributor ground problem. Maybe it's something as simple as this.

Jeff

[Terrys]

I agree with the others. It sounds like a connection has loosened up. Frequently it's the cable connection at the starter. Because the bolt passes through a plastic insulation block, it's difficult to get it torqued without crushing the insulator.
I don't think your vibration issue is related to the starter issue.

[LandRoverRo]

Thanks...

...for all your help and suggestions.

Last night I took a test light and checked that power was going to the starter. Power was there but when I turned the key, there was no connection of the points in the solenoid (no light). I tried tapping with a hammer while turning the key but couldn't get any contact that way either. I did notice that the main post is loose as I took all the connections off and cleaned them up. Everything is quite clean. Perhaps there is an issue with it there. I've pulled it out and will take it to get checked out and rebuilt if necessary.

Thought I'd attach a photo of the car too just for the sake of it.
Thanks again.

[Tim Smith]

...Thought I'd attach a photo of the car too just for the sake of it.
Thanks again.

Nice wheels. Where did you find them?

[LandRoverRo]

Nice wheels. Where did you find them?

Thanks. Are you talking about the wheels or the car? Either way, I just imported the car from the U.K. two weeks ago. The wheels were one of the extras added to the car. Don't know what they are exactly.

[Tim Smith]

Thanks. Are you talking about the wheels or the car? Either way, I just imported the car from the U.K. two weeks ago. The wheels were one of the extras added to the car. Don't know what they are exactly.

Yeah, I was talking about the wheels. Mine are currently in a state of rust. So I've got it on the mind lately.

Looks like a good truck too!

Cheers,
Tim

[LandRoverRo]

Yeah, I was talking about the wheels. Mine are currently in a state of rust. So I've got it on the mind lately.

Looks like a good truck too!

Cheers,
Tim

Would it be cost-effective to have your wheels sand blasted and re-painted? I believe there are several sources for new steel wheels in the U.S.

[Tim Smith]

Would it be cost-effective to have your wheels sand blasted and re-painted? I believe there are several sources for new steel wheels in the U.S.

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.

I was more interested in your wheels because of the offset. They seem to sit a little further out than standard wheels and I like the way that looks.

Cheers,
Tim

[109sixer]

I believe those wheels are or at least look identical to the Black Nugget made
bu American Racing. They are sold by Gul Coast Rovers...

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=3

[Tim Smith]

I believe those wheels are or at least look identical to the Black Nugget made
bu American Racing. They are sold by Gul Coast Rovers...

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=3

Ouch! $66 each is too much for my squeaky cheap blood.
Looks like I'll be painting mine.

Thanks for finding them for us though.

[yorker]

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.


Tim

FWIW I read somewhere- (Here? LRUK Boards?) that LR wheels are heat treated and will lose their strength if you Galvanize them. The fellow claimed he did his and they got all bent to hell in short order. I don't know if it is true but it might be something to think about- it was the only time I heard of the issue...

[LandRoverRo]

I'm sure that would be the cheaper/smarter way to go. Actually, I might try and have them galvanized if I do try to save them. If they are savable that is.

I was more interested in your wheels because of the offset. They seem to sit a little further out than standard wheels and I like the way that looks.

Cheers,
Tim

Yes, I like the offset too. They sit just about even with the body work. I've seen Forward Control wheels on a regular Series and they have a larger offset than standard also which gives the same, more stable, look.

[Tim Smith]

FWIW I read somewhere- (Here? LRUK Boards?) that LR wheels are heat treated and will lose their strength if you Galvanize them. The fellow claimed he did his and they got all bent to hell in short order. I don't know if it is true but it might be something to think about- it was the only time I heard of the issue...

Thanks for the note. I'll have to do some research before doing that I guess.