Series III progress....clutch working OK....coolant leak and speedo!!

[knac1234]

So everything, except for the seat belts (on order), trim panels, headliner, and bench seats is done!

Fired her up....started right up. Good start. Backed her out of the garage, and drove her round the property where I've been working on her.

The issues:

-Clutch pedal......is there any adjustment to it? All new hydraulics and fluid; bled; no leaks.....a little hard to change gear. Pedal does not feel hard enough.

-Exhaust leak.....between the exhaust manifold and the downpipe.....I remember tightening that sucker well....any thoughts other than retightening?? I was told to put no gasket in between.

-Have to mess around with the linkage....don't think the hand throttle is connected properly, and it might be interfering with the gas pedal as there is not much power (well, is there ever?!).....maybe related to that exhaust leak??

-Screeching sound on acceleration.....it has to be something run by the fan belt.....since the water pump stayed in place and so did the crank pulley, I'll start with the alternator as it was apart.

Positive side---cooling seems good (although maybe only 1/4 mile done!), brakes are good, starts right up, and everything works except the above!

Will dedicate tomorrow to troubleshooting....any tips appreciated!

Julian

[jac04]

Clutch adjustments are covered in the repair manual. You need to adjust the pushrod up at the master cylinder.

Correct, there is no gasket or sealant used at the manifold to downpipe connection. Check the mating parts for rust & clean as required. Try to get the flange bolted up as evenly as possible. I assume you are using a stock type exhaust and not a NRP stainless, correct?

There are several places to adjust the throttle linkage. First, put a brick on the gas pedal to hold it to the floor (against the stop bolt). Then go under the hood and make sure that the throttle on the carb is fully opening. You may need to adjust how the pedal is connected to the cross-shaft.

[Lance]

I had a exhaust leak on mine also. I too was told there is no gasket. Problem is I looked real close at the exhaust pipe and noticed someone before me had the pipe modified for a doenut type seal. Installed a new seal and that took care of it. It's worth a look.

[knac1234]

Thanks all,

Have the laptop on for comments as I work.

Jac-Just got the dust plate off the clutch tower (with the wing on....not easy). Adjusted the 2 bolts on the master rod.....using the Haynes manual, but not seeming to accomplish anything. I am looking through the access hole by the slave with the clutch pedal held down with a block, and without. I see no movement in the fork (measuring using the 2 plastic clips I can see). Any ideas??? Maybe I am misinterpreting the adjustment process, but I have tried it with the 2 nuts in every position up and down the threaded part of the rod.


Lance-Might be possible to use a gasket if I can't mate the surface flush enough, but am going to try again.

Julian

[jac04]

When you press the clutch pedal there is no movement at the fork inside the bellhousing? Interesting. IIRC, you set the free play at the clutch rod by having the pedal all the way up, then adjust to give just a little slop between the pushrod & piston (inside the master cylinder). That ensures that the piston comes all the way back up when the clutch is released. I would adjust the pushrod, then bleed the clutch again. If the rubber hose isn't in good shape it can close-off internally and make bleeding difficult.

[knac1234]

Jac-

Clutch working OK now after adjusting the rod nuts near the end (front of vehicle). Not as good as I would like it....maybe bleeding the slave again might work like you said. At least I was able to drive the property with no gears grinding!

Throttle-fixed....need to look at idle, but it is good. Not the idle screw...the linkage is slow to return and does not return all the way, giving me a 1000 rpm idle as opposed 500-750 or so.

Alternator scraping-fan blade on the alt was scraping....put a rubber washer in there and works great with no slop in the spin.

Speedo-Now I know how SLOW I am going! I thought it wasn't working (before hopped around wildly at times, but replaced the cable-the old was secured with 2 screws only and lubed the speedo)......but that was because I only paid attention when I rolled it into the garage. Ran it round again, and I was doing a whopping 10-20 mph, with no needle skipping about

BUT.....coolant leak now (I think from the tstat housing).

There are 2 gaskets for the tstat housing...upper and lower....the upper pokes out of the housing sides a bit and is bone dry...so I suspect the lower one. Should I use some gasket maker with the gasket when I remove it???

I did just try tightening the bolts further.....maybe I'll get lucky on the leak!


Thanks,
Julian