Running fine and then died. No restart.

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  • OkieRover
    Low Range
    • Apr 2009
    • 5
    #1

    Running fine and then died. No restart.

    I just finished getting my repaired radiator back in and decided to take the Range Rover for a test drive. All was well, ran good, no problems.

    On the way home I was pulling around a traffic calming device and as I came out the Range Rover died. 1993 LWB 4.2.

    I coasted to a stop. I got out and started looking for the problem.

    I have spark.
    Tested the coil to ground good strong spark.
    I tested a plug wire to ground good strong spark.

    I have fuel.
    Took one side of the supply to the fuel rail off and got fuel to the rail as I witnessed it coming out of the line.

    I have air.
    I don't have a spare MAF to check with but I assume as it was running fine and stopped it must be electrical.

    I had an error code 17 the last time couple of times I drove her. Two times I pulled up to the house I had a 17. I did not have a code when I took her out this time. I had a dead battery and set her on the trickle charger all night. She started with no trouble before the test drive.

    I checked all the connectors at the coil and the water temp sensor. I unplugged the Engine ECU and reseated it. I reseated the MAF connector.

    I am wondering at this point if the throttle position sensor can cause the vehicle not to start.

    How do I test the TPS?
    1993 Range Rover LWB
    2003 Discovery (R.I.P. wrecked)
    www.okierover.com
    Tags: throttle position sensor
    • o2batsea
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1199
      #2
      Probably your ignition amplifier, the little doo-dad on the side of the diz.

        Comment

        • mearstrae
          5th Gear
          • Oct 2011
          • 592
          #3
          o2 probably hit the nail on the head, I'd had the same problem on my '95 R.R. It would shut down intermitantly and then it quit altogether.

          '95 R.R. Classic LWB
          '76 Series III Hybrid 109

            Comment

            • MJL
              Low Range
              • Oct 2007
              • 82
              #4
              If you have a strong spark then it is probably not the ignition amplifier. There is a signal sent to the ECU from the coil. Lets the ECU know the engine is cranking and/or running - I think it is referred to in the manual a an engine speed signal. There is a resistor in-line, if this fails or the connections foul up the signal does not get to the ECU so it will not open the injectors. Happened to me on a 94 RRC. You can find the resisitor in the wiring harness by the MAF sensor - just trace back from the coil

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