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Thread: DUAL-CIRCUIT BRAKE PLUMBING REQUIREMENTS

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Mukilteo, Washington
    Posts
    17

    Default DUAL-CIRCUIT BRAKE PLUMBING REQUIREMENTS

    I'm in the process of a front power-assisted front disk brake/dual circuit conversion of my 1966 serIIa88 regular's brakes. I've got the disks and new master cylinder installed, but now I need to route new brake pipes to the wheels.

    The dual circuit master cylinder has two outlets: One to the front brakes and one to the rear. I can afford to buy new fittings, pipes and/or brake switches, but I'm not sure just which ones. Remember, this is an 88, not a 109.

    At first glance, I could run one pipe directly from the rear master cylinder outlet to the "T" fitting on the rear axles (if I could find the appropriate brake pipe), and another from the front MC outlet to the existing, single circuit fitting (with one outlet plugged) to the front brakes.

    I can afford the appropriate bits & pieces, but I'm not clear just which ones should be used.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated!
    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Mason NH
    Posts
    176

    Default Brake help.

    I will be happy to take pics of my series 3 dual pipe set up. I would loke to know what you are running for a disc set up... Kit or other brand swap. ????
    Whence came you my brother ? From the East....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield, CT
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    RDS has complete kits for dual circuit systems.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    I believe the MC fittings are 3/8 imperial. Easiest thing to do is to take the MC and a caliper down to your parts store and try it out. If you have the flex hoses for the front caliper and you know those work then you should take on of those so you can find the fitting to mate to the hard line.
    My front calipers are metric so I use a SIII style setup where the short hard line has the metric fitting on the caliper side and an imperial fitting to mate up to the flex line.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Flagstaff, Arizona
    Posts
    1,087

    Default

    This may be of help:

    www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm

    Last I checked, RN carried individual British spec brake line fittings. The premade brake lines at the car parts store carry the right tubing with the wrong fittings attached. What I did was buy premade lines the right length, cut one flare off, removed the US fittings, added the British spec fittings and made a new flare at the cut end. You start with a nice straight line that you bend to fit your individual truck.

    The premade ones you get from LR shops are usually wound into a circle and are made to fit more than one car. I often found them to be a little too long for my need. They are good if finish looks are not high priority and you don't trust your ability to make a good proper flare.

    Anyway, good luck with your project.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,020

    Default

    Les Parker
    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
    Rovers North Inc.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,020

    Default Dual brake pipes

    Also, the 2 lines for this, I believe, are :-

    1. RNC576 Master to junction (front circuit)
    1. RNC577 Master to rear pipe


    Both currently in stock.
    Les Parker
    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
    Rovers North Inc.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield, CT
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Les Parker View Post
    Good to know. I hope they are in stock when I do the next one. They weren't last time.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Mukilteo, Washington
    Posts
    17

    Default RE: DUAL CIRCUIT BRAKE PIPES

    I'm installing a Torrel front disk brake conversion kit from Rocky Mountain in Vancouver, B.C. After inspection, and seeing rust, I think I'll go ahead and replace all of the metal brake pipes between the master cylinder and the wheels.

    I just removed the starboard (right) wing (you should know what that is) to gain better access to the vital bits and saw a fair amount of corrosion. The whole point of this exercise is to make this thing safer to drive, so I shouldn't go half-baked.

    Thanks for all the advice!
    Mark

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