What is Normal?

[willincalgary]

Every bit of experience I have driving Landrovers has been in my own '59 Series II. As such I don't have a good idea what's normal for a 50+ year old Landy and what's not. In particular I don't know how good the cooling system is and when the truck would be expected to struggle to dissipate heat. On my recent nearly 5000 mile odyssey through the US west (cambrianadventures.blogspot.ca) I found on several occasions the truck would have overheated had it not been for the Kodiak heater and easing up on the throttle.
As an example, grinding out of Needles to the west on I40 was a windows open, heater on undertaking to keep the truck at 98 Celsius. Ambient air temperature was over 40C. People drive/drove these trucks all over the Sahara was it just because they weren't trying to go interstate speed that they didn't overheat constantly or is my truck's cooling system failing me? Any experience would be appreciated.

[I Leak Oil]

I think people tend to not mention the unforunate situations that they can get into. I'm sure plenty of series trucks have overheated all over the world. In the summer here in New England I have to sometimes turn on the heater when I'm on I-95 to keep it in a range where "I" am comfortable. These 2.25 motors are incredibly resiliant. I had my radiator frozen solid and overheating on the way to work one morning and once it thawed out it was like nothing ever happened. Do they need a coolant change and T-stat swap once in a while? Yes.

[busboy]

During the cold winter months I use a winter front that's sheet aluminum covered in black arctic vinyl but it can be opened. One night coming home from work at 4 am the temp had risen and I didn't want to stop on the main hi way in the middle of the night so I kept going. Huge mistake.. I partially seized the engine. I had to install new "standard" pistons and rings but luckily the cylinder walls were not marked so I just glaze busted them. $300 and I was done. For a couple of years I struggled with the engine over heating I tried everything to find the problem then one night on my way to work the temp was ok and as the sun started to go down I turned on the lights and the temp started to rise. Light bulb went on and although I had previously tried an new voltage stabilizer and temp sender and speedo head for the gauge it was a poor body ground. A new ground lead from the body direct to the negative terminal of the battery cured the problem. Sometimes things are not what they appear to be.

[willincalgary]

Interesting. I wonder how many times a dysfunctional voltage stabilizer has bit someone in the butt? I have the mechanical temperature/oil pressure gauge so no electrical demons in my closet!

[SafeAirOne]

Even with an oil cooler, my little 2.5NAD used to get hot when travelling through thick soft sand in the desert in 40-45 celcius ambient temps and also when climbing from -80' to +4000 on interstate 8 (at 35 mph) in that same environment. This was with a 4-row radiator too, so I think what you describe is probably normal in the Needles area, depending on engine loading.

[Sputnicker]

I've been driving my 1960 Series 2 through some of the hottest places on the planet (Sonoran and Mojave deserts) for 38 years and it has never overheated. That includes long mountain grades at highway speeds (sort of) and crawling in low range. I'd check the normal list of culprits like thermostat, timing, clogged radiator tubes, fuel mixture, vacuum leak, head gasket, etc. It could also be the gauge - especially if there are no other symptoms (like losing water), but those mechanical gauges are very reliable.

[TeriAnn]

On my recent nearly 5000 mile odyssey through the US west (cambrianadventures.blogspot.ca) I found on several occasions the truck would have overheated had it not been for the Kodiak heater and easing up on the throttle.
As an example, grinding out of Needles to the west on I40 was a windows open, heater on undertaking to keep the truck at 98 Celsius.

Back in the days when I had a 2.25L engine I had the same problems in the same location and used the same solution. My 2.25L engine tended to overheat on hot days going up long grades and the Kodiak was just enough to keep things going at the expense of burning my legs.

I've sometimes wondered if it was my timing. I never could see the flywheel timing mark so I always timed it by ear. Maybe if it were timed a little differently the engine might not have overheated. But it is just a guess.

[willincalgary]

I also think we should keep perspective, there are big signs on that particular section of road telling motorists to turn off their AC to avoid overheating. Maybe I'm expecting too much.
The timing marks are very annoyingly inaccessible on the flywheel. When I was in Durango, 4x4 And More timed the engine by setting it to achieve maximum vacuum on the intake manifold. To this day I have no idea how that worked. Truck ran way better though after the adjustment.

[mearstrae]

I often set timing with a vacuum gauge, especially if I don't have good spec's on where to set it. Just connect the gauge to a manifold port (not timing port for dizzy) so you get full vacuum readings. Then set for the highest number that has the engine running smoothly. Sometimes this brings the idle RPM's above the book spec's, just reset the idle back to the proper RPM range and off you go.

'95 RRC Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid
'70 Rover 3500S

[LaneRover]

I also think we should keep perspective, there are big signs on that particular section of road telling motorists to turn off their AC to avoid overheating.

Got it! Close the 2 front vents to avoid overheating!