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Thread: NAS D110 Rust - Solutions?

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  1. #1

    Default NAS D110 Rust - Solutions?

    I am finalizing a purchase of a NAS D110 that has rust appearing on the bottom of the doors and a few other places. Short of having it torn down, sanded down and repainted any suggestions for quick but not necessarily beauty perfect fixes? I had thought of just sanding down affected areas, rustoleum applied and then paint code match paint then painted ontop in affected areas (all done in my handy dandy garage). Any thoughts or feed back would be great!

  2. #2

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    The problem is deeper that sanding and painting. You are better off replacing the doors/affected panels with new.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I won't know the full extent until I own it and it is sitting in my driveway. At that point I will pull off the panels and look and see if it is cosmetic or deep down rot.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

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    Many NAS 110 doors were replaced for rot while still in the original warranty period.

    Chances are they are rotten.

    If you replace them, keep them Waxoyled on the inside, especially where the aluminum meets the steel frame.
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the suggestion regarding the "Waxoyled" on the inside. I will do that. Have you heard of a product that helps prevent the rusting in the first place. Some sort of electrical electrode that you attach to the body to keep it slightly charged and therefore helps reduce rust forming? I remember reading about something like that several years back.
    Last edited by DefenderDreams; 10-09-2007 at 07:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    The Waxoyl will prevent the rust in the first place. I meant to say, apply it to the brand new doors to prevent it.

    As far as applying an electrode to reduce rust, that is difficult.

    Since the body is mating panels of aluminum and steel, you essentially have a very weak battery. Ions are stripped from the steel whenever they are in contact. Salt water acts as the catalyst, making the process happen faster.

    To make the effect lessen, you need a less noble metal than the steel. I suggest Zinc, since it's cheap.

    If you had a large zinc electrode, the potential would strip the zinc ions rather than iron ions. But where do you put it?

    The best prevention is to isolate (insulate) the aluminum from the steel. Some restorers use plastic sheets at all the body attachment points. Make sure everything is well protected with paint, and keep the truck free of any salt or other chemicals such as Calcium Chloride or fertilizers.

    One thing to avoid is stainless steel. Since it is more noble than both the aluminum and the iron, it will strip mions from both... I have seen quite a few series restorations where the body attachement points were rotting faster than stock because they "improved" things with stainless hardware. Stick to zinc plated hardware, but I suggest nylock nuts and never-sieze on all nuts and bolts.
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

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