After-market fuel guage?

[Dashface]

My Rover-issue fuel guage (actually, the entire left-hand side instrument cluster thingy) doesn't seem to work. Can anyone suggest an easy way to just tack a new guage onto the dash and hook it in?

Thanks!

[gudjeon]

When I rebuilt my ser1, I opted to replace all my gauges as there was little of the original to work with. I replaced the fuel gauge with a generic 2" sized one. The neat thing with this is you can buy its matching sending unit and calibrate it to suit the tank depth. I know Napa sells such a combo but was pricey for me at the time. I opted for a gauge and sending unit from an agri/industrial supplier for about $25. I had to drill the holes on the sending unit mounting flange to match the tank, make a gasket, and I was in business. The sender is made for plain regular square tanks of varying depths, so it has instructions to fit.

Its cheap, has been working for about 4 years now, and can be replaced in a heartbeat.

[thixon]

For an example, see below. Auto Meter tends to be pricey, but the design of this sender will closely match most of the after-market adjustable senders you'll find. Make sure the ohm range of the sender matches the gauge you buy. I used the one below, with an auto meter gauge in a jeep I built up about 15 years ago (or so). To my knowledge, its still working.


http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/3262/10002/-1

[greenmeanie]

I'd start with a voltmeter first and check the truck before spending any money. If all the instruments on the cluster are not working the first place I'd go look is the voltage stabilizer. Check for juice going in (12V) and out (10V). Also check that the grounds are hooked up.

I like to eliminate the cheap solutions first.

[rovertek]

i have good used original gauges and senders <gauto@localnet.com>

[Dashface]

I'm pretty sure the sender works... We've actually replaced the damned gas tank on this thing two times now, and we checked the sender both times... So - it's likely something with the instrument cluster. I'll check if it's getting any juice I guess. I'm not so good with this electrical stuff haha

[Terrys]

I'd start with a voltmeter first and check the truck before spending any money. If all the instruments on the cluster are not working the first place I'd go look is the voltage stabilizer. Check for juice going in (12V) and out (10V). Also check that the grounds are hooked up.

I like to eliminate the cheap solutions first.

X2 on the stabilizer. Gauges almost never go bad. Senders do.