Yes, these are know for head gasket failures. The important thing is to be sure the repair is made correctly. The heads will need to be straightened, done by a good automotive machine shop. Sometimes they can heat the heads in an oven and force them back into square and level, sometimes they need to be machined, sometimes both. Many folks disagree with using ARP head studs for a Buick 215 (they are available for the Land Rover at a higher cost for fewer studs) instead of the use once and throw away Land Rover TTY bolts with the weird torque sequence. I've always had good luck using the studs on aluminum heads and also, (against all rules and recommendation) I use Permatex spray gasket sealer on "self-sealing" gaskets. I did this to my '70 Rover P-6 about 20 years ago and it hasn't failed since (these older engines use the steel shim gaskets). Others who have used this method have been lucky enough not to have had further failures. In some of the newer 4.6L engines (around 2003) the seemingly blow head gasket is actually a problem with cracked head bolt holes in the block, a treatment with industrial block sealant seems to solve the problem. This happened to a friend of mine (2003, D II, 4.6L) who had the head gaskets replaced only to find that the problem persisted. Block seal did the trick and he's been running it for over a year.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S