What did you do to your Rover today?

[superpowerdave]

Finished putting in the rear main seal, thanks to help from here

During the move the clutch alignment tool was misplaced so I have to dig through the donor rig tomorrow and hopefully drop the motor back in and start getting her buttoned back up.

I cannot wait to be back on the road in a Series truck! The DII is nice, just doesn't have the same character.

[siiirhd88]

I plan on topping up all of the 90wt oils on my 109, since I haven't checked them in weeks.

I will also measure the battery cables on the Disco for replacement this week. Interestingly, the Disco rarely starts unless I turn on the headlights. It cranks like it has a low battery or doesn't crank at all until I turn on the headlights and then it starts right up. I have already cleaned all of the grounds and added an additional ground wire between the engine and chassis. Hmmmm...

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[Pete]

Continued disassembling my SIII for a new galvanized frame. Took both drive shafts off. Started unbolting the steering assembly and many other bits and pieces. Heated and hammered the set screws out of the drums of the Salisbury rear end and pulled the drums etc to start prepping it.

Pete

[gudjeon]

Just driving to and from work and going downtown to buy odds and sods for the house. Nothing exciting happening. Last week had -20c mornings so had it plugged in for a couple hours each morning on the block heater. I tried the 5w50 for winter and I am happy with the results. Pressure comes up very fast when starting up cold and viscosity must remain when the engine is warm. The pressure doesn't start to drop during a warm idle like regular winter weight oils.

Next up when its warm, new door latches, relocate the spare tire, and hardwire a 120v inverter. I'm already looking forward to camping this summer.

Oh yea, I have two US style gerry cans to mount.

[Firemanshort]

I added my custom radiator muff (cardboard box) and I replaced my turn signal / headlight hi-low stalk today (now my headlights work). I started on a lower dash heater plenum rehabilitation.... but that will take the rest of the week to sort out.

(thinking about the 'romp)

[Nanoose]

Just general maintenance...

Pulled the plug on the bell housing to see if there was any oil to drain (nope)

Changed the transfer case oil

Changed the gearbox oil

Greased the prop shafts

Topped up the swivel pin housings

Poked around under the truck, cleaning and trying to sort out where the drips are coming from and decided that having a garage with heat, light and music is a very good thing...

Dave

[scott]

i pulled off my tow plate to install my new heavy duty hitch and was reminded of how rotted it was behind it so i stopped and went to mess on badvibe's truck with him. he did a rear wheel seal. went pretty smoothly. oh and we did this in the driveway, it was a really nice day here today. after the seal work he goes for a quick oil change. that goes pretty smooth. fire it up and no oil pressure, after about 2 minutes of high idling a weird whirly whiney not quite screachy sound begins. shut it down. he replaced a purlator with a fram ph8a. mmm, de ja vu all over again as yogi would say. put the old pulator back on, oil pressure good no weird sound.

a little over a year ago i put in a fram ph8a, did 7 miles, couldn't hear the weird whirly noise because i'm on the hwy doing 60 mph and the engine seizes. you may have remember my problem was my spin on was on 180` wrong and the new fram had some sort of anti back-flow valve or what ever makes 'em one directional now.

well jeff has been using fram for years and because his prssr gauge sender was oriented the way mine was when it was wrong a couple months ago he flipped his around but the store he went to didn't carry fram so he bought the purlator. you remember the purlator? well it worked well with badvibe's spin on adapter flipped around. so jeff points out that our spin on adptrs are different, mines about the size of a really thick puck and his is a two piece much bigger but way thinner. bottom line he's gotta flip his adapter around again if he want's to use frams

[SafeAirOne]

... fire it up and no oil pressure, after about 2 minutes of high idling a weird whirly whiney not quite screachy sound begins. shut it down. he replaced a purlator with a fram ph8a. mmm, de ja vu all over again as yogi would say.

Wow. Hopefully no permanent damage, though it sounds like metal-on-metal contact, so some damage must have been done. Still, sounds like you may have dodged the bullet on fatal damage!

[czenkov]

Yesterday - new carb to air filter pipe hose and aired up the tires. Went from 7.5 mpg to 14 mpg. Cold weather had let the tires down to abnormal levels.

My buddy wrapped some wiring that had a couple of bare areas.

Good times.

[badvibes]

sorry this is so long.....

Wow. Hopefully no permanent damage, though it sounds like metal-on-metal contact, so some damage must have been done. Still, sounds like you may have dodged the bullet on fatal damage!

Yeah no kidding. So like scott and others found out the spin on adapter they have is the one piece type that when mounted correctly puts the sending unit pointed more to the breakfast than the bulkhead.

My adapter is the 2 piece type, I think it gets referred to as a"pancake" type. I had it mounted so that the sending unit was pointed more to the bulkhead. Hearing the woes of others from this orientation, and not realizing that there are 2 types of spin on filter adapters, I took mine off and re-mounted it so that the sending unit is pointed more toward the radiator. Couldn't find a Fram PH8A filter at the time so I used a Puralator. Oil pressure the last 2 months with the Puralator has been fine. Oil pressure the last several years with the adapter mounted with the sending unit pointed more to the the bulkhead and using Fram PH8A filters had been fine.

So now today after replacing the seal on the right rear axle I decide to do a quick oil change. Take the Puralator filter off and put on a new PH8A. Finish the oil change and fire the truck up to see no pressure on the gauge, engine starts making a bad noise after just a moment running and so I shut it down. Put the old Puralator back on, fire the truck up again and no bad noise, oil pressure reads 40 lbs at idle.

So now I'm wondering if I should have left the adapter I have mounted so that the sending unit points more to the back of the motor and I messed up by changing the orientation. Does anybody else run the "pancake" type adapter and how is it oriented? What filters are you using? Anybody know the direction of flow of oil into the filter, does oil enter the filter or exit the filter thru the center opening on the filter?

Here's a pic of the type of adapter I have:



Here's a pic of the adapter scott has:



Here's a pic of the rear seal replacement job, all cleaned up, brakes re-installed and ready to put it all back together.

[Jim-ME]

It's been too cold to do much of anything mechanical to it so I drove it about 150 miles.
Jim

[siii8873]

On Saturday morning it was about 0 degF. Needed to get some insulation for the garage. Havn't driven the truck in cold weather so off I go to the barn. Took about 4 times to get her to start. Took about 5 minutes to get the cold start light to come on. Seemed like another 5 to get her to run without choke, see deflection on temp guage. While she was warming up I put the transfer case in neutral and put the main gear box in 2nd gear for a short time to move the oil a little before I got going.
After the warm up the truck ran great and plenty of heat for me. Did also lock in the hubs and drove arount the lot, about 8" of snow, ran great there also.

Bob

[ivarra]

Took the Christmas lights off

[4flattires]

I used the hitch mount to anchor a come-along winch and length of chain to a 30' cottonwood tree I needed to fell. I needed to guide the tree in the right direction and it landed perfectly between my fence and the neighbors. A couple degrees error either way....and...BOOM...'spensive repairs would be needed.

Score one for my excellent novice engineering skills and the Rovers steadiness.

Jeff

[SafeAirOne]

Anybody know the direction of flow of oil into the filter, does oil enter the filter or exit the filter thru the center opening on the filter?

Looking at this on the Fram site, it would appear that oil enters the filter around the circumference and exits through the center.

To keep on topic, this week I removed the valves and checked/removed the crankshaft and prepped the block and head for a trip to the machine shop for a good cleaning and inspection.

Interesting that most of the replies to this thread are maintenance-related as opposed to the much more desireable "driving and doing fun stuff"-related. Perhaps everyone does their heavy maintenance during the winter??