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Thread: Buying Rebuilt Engine Sources

  1. #61

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    You bring up some good points Scott. We all have wish list, want lists, and needs lists, based on our own individual values, and pocket books. But to say it's a "rip off", when someone steps up and upgrades his vehicle, to suit their own needs, is not right, just insulting. Would it be any better to spend $10k for a HS2.8 TGV base conversion kit, then need to upgrade the drive train to cope with the extra power? To some it would, and myself personally,not. That's my opinion, and would simply say, great engine, not on my list. Land Rovers are about individuality, improvising, and using whats available to you to make them work best for our needs. You want a $60k+ pretty truck to go to the mall, looks nice, only have $2k to make a runner, great job. Point being, neither owner is smarter, or more ignorant, just two people doing what they want. The world would be awfully boring with 1 Land Rover for all, based on 1 person's opinion.

  2. #62
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    Nov 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    The owner of this engine stated average of just over 14 mpg( D110) with lots of mud play. In speaking with Roland at ACR with the addition of the Magnetronic points replacement, and 110 specific exhaust (more efficient tan Series), 16 +mpg will be normal.
    UK Gallons or US gallons?
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    The owner of this engine stated average of just over 14 mpg( D110) with lots of mud play. In speaking with Roland at ACR with the addition of the Magnetronic points replacement, and 110 specific exhaust (more efficient tan Series), 16 +mpg will be normal. I am saying, peak power doesn't tell the whole story, it's the improved usable power band that makes the big difference, I will not running around at peak RPM's all day. Yes if the throttle was always on the floor, it would suffer greatly, and probably do your stated mpg, but that is not my intention, or how I drive. To me, the increased engine efficiency is the greatest advantage, nothing more. I think this engine is a great upgrade, and best suits my needs, and wants. Just as SGS714 is stepping up and acting, so am I, and thrilled about it as well.
    Greg
    You are still pushing around a ~5,000lb + truck with a small displacement overworked 4 cylinder. A 2.8 may have more capacity vs. the 2.25 but it is creating that via more fuel and air consumption. You still don't have a crossflow head or any other advances that will make a vast improvement in the engine's efficiency. Look at your torque to weight ratio and consider the drag coefficient of a LR is ~.59 and frontal area is ~37ft2. The only way you are going to get greatly different fuel consumption is with a more modern engine design or a diesel. What I am saying is don't expect any miracles.

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    As for nice shiny galvanized frames- they aren't just for that sexy shine, in the rust belt it is $ well spent .
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  4. #64
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    Nov 2006
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    Redding, CT
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    5000#? Well, I guess my truck diet works.

  5. #65

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    Originally I was going to swap a diesel, until this engine popped up on Ebay. It was mentioned earlier that the 2.8 is only good for ease of swapping. The 200Tdi requires only a few mods for the intercooler, and fuel delivery, no biggie.I would have to learn all I can, and wrench a lot before i leave to be self sufficient with any Tdi, which have taken away much time that could have been used in vehicle preparation. Now I have an engine optimized to the best standards possible, without negatively sacrificing reliability, that I can repair myself. Perfect for my needs. And bringing up the argument that its too this, or too that, is just opinions. How did countless travelers ever survive, or complete a trip with a, gulp, stock grossly under powered, inefficient engine, impossible right? Its not all about the engine, as there are more than one to choose, but the whole package we are able to put together. My ambulance weighted at Tillbury with a quarter tank was 1603k, light starting point. I do intend to keep it as light as possible, and travel light. As for the aerodynamics, my interior has roughly an extra 35sq ft over stock roofs, and how do you think I will compare with a 110 that needs a full roof rack, and RTT. Not to mention the COG and handling advantage I will end up with. My guess, a tad better, which I will require less power to to maintain the same speed, with better economy. There is a pattern here in the specs, and add them all together, I think I will end up with something just a little better in the end. That is exactly what this engine is, a little better breathing, a little extra displacement etc...I am not building this for anyone except my son, and I, based on what we are best able to put together for us. Modern engines are not all gems, some dogs have ECU's. I never said it will get 30 mpg, and climb K2 in third gear, or that I need that, only it will suit my needs, nothing more. BTW, I don't recommend this engine for you, and hope that your choice suit your needs. Merry Christmas all.
    Cheers,
    Greg

  6. #66
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    Nov 2007
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    NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric W S View Post
    5k? You could get a complete turner enginer for that. Course you'd be wasting money. For less than half that you can have it rebuilt locally to the same effect...
    Less than half????? The machine shop work alone is around 2k for a proper rebuild and that is without buying parts. Not sure where you are getting your figures from......good luck with that.
    1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
    1971 88 (restored and as new)
    1967 88 (the next project)

  7. #67
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    May 2010
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    Rutland, Vermont
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bertha View Post
    Less than half????? The machine shop work alone is around 2k for a proper rebuild and that is without buying parts. Not sure where you are getting your figures from......good luck with that.
    Guess it depends on what is being done. Local race shop to me will lighten a flywheel for $90, do a 3 angle valve job with cleaning, and head planing as necesary, and valve seals on an 8v head as needed for $200. Not sure what they charge for measure/inspect the cylinder bores, boring, and honing on a 4 cylinder but I doubt its much more than $500 - $750. So for about $1000 you should be able to get all the basic machine shop work done. Now this bill will of course go exponential if you get into balancing, blue printing, crank grinding, knifing, extrude honing, titanium rods, forged pistons, double valve springs, etc etc....but then again this is a rover engine...you would have to be rather foolish to dump that much work into a 2.25 motor (or really friggin obsessed ).

  8. #68
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    Nov 2006
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    N. York
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    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    Originally I was going to swap a diesel, until this engine popped up on Ebay. It was mentioned earlier that the 2.8 is only good for ease of swapping. The 200Tdi requires only a few mods for the intercooler, and fuel delivery, no biggie.I would have to learn all I can, and wrench a lot before i leave to be self sufficient with any Tdi, which have taken away much time that could have been used in vehicle preparation.
    The TDi is simple, and the learning curve isn't steep. It wouldn't require a lot of work to get to know it well enough for such a journey. There is always the 2.5 and 200Di too if you want added simplicity. There are other even better choices out there but I assume you want to stay with the Rover part's box for simplicities sake.

    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    Now I have an engine optimized to the best standards possible, without negatively sacrificing reliability, that I can repair myself. Perfect for my needs. And bringing up the argument that its too this, or too that, is just opinions. How did countless travelers ever survive, or complete a trip with a, gulp, stock grossly under powered, inefficient engine, impossible right?
    They drove slow used a lot of gas and eventually got there, the same thing you are going to do. The 2.25 and its derivatives are a slow, thirsty and overworked but pretty reliable series of engines. At low speeds the 4 cylinder gas engine's thirst for fuel can be alarming. Don't discount all the "opinions" you find here, many of them are a result of genuine first hand experience over the decades with these things. Everybody has an opinion but some of them are very well informed and the result of years practical knowledge.

    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    Its not all about the engine, as there are more than one to choose, but the whole package we are able to put together. My ambulance weighted at Tillbury with a quarter tank was 1603k, light starting point. I do intend to keep it as light as possible, and travel light. As for the aerodynamics, my interior has roughly an extra 35sq ft over stock roofs, and how do you think I will compare with a 110 that needs a full roof rack, and RTT.
    They usually a penalty of at least 2-3MPG with a V8 powered Rover with a roof rack, it is likely you'll see the same. Then again it depends how fast you travel too. The physics of the matter is just one of those things you can't escape. Naturally the slower you go the less and less this has an impact.





    1603KG/3530 Lbs for a starting point is pretty light, ask around for the average expedition weight of these trucks. Post here what it weighs when you are fully kitted out for this adventure.
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  9. #69

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    I did look at many options, just don't have your same opinions. Better choices for who? Are you driving this vehicle? What am I only supposed to use what you want me to use. What is the big issue, I get it, you don't like the engine, so don't buy one. But to say I am wrong in my choice is just ignorant. That is your opinion, nothing more. I don't need a whole lot of extra power, as it will not be loaded anywhere close to max weight. I have a somewhat unique vehicle, and am taking advantage of that fact. I am not using it for a rock crawler, just a long trip south, off the beaten track sometimes. So my choice will suit me just fine. End of story. If it bugs you that much, buy it and lets see what you will do, if anything.Then we can start a new thread, and I will tell you why your choices are all wrong. The reason I brought up the extra interior capacity, is because it will allow me to NOT have a roof rack, and it is a sleep in conversion. Yes you have a formula for drag on the hi top roof, but it is a lot more aero than a loaded roof rack, with a RTT. Or is that wrong too? I must have a roof top tent? I will have a fridge, it that cool? Here's a great formula: I bought it+ My choices+ My cash+ My build= My Land Rover The math does not lie. I like friendly banter, it's entertaining, but insisting that you alone know all, is just getting boring.
    Cheers
    Greg

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by gchinsr View Post
    I will not running around at peak RPM's all day.
    Greg
    I think you'll find that you will be much more often than you'd think. Not trying to be critical, just realistic.
    Matt Browne
    www.overlandengineering.com
    "resurecting junk through engineering"

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