Looks like that truck has longer springs on the front as well. I think that is a common swap when doing a spring over, along with using a flatter rear leaf spring (like a chevy pick up or jeep yj).
Looks like that truck has longer springs on the front as well. I think that is a common swap when doing a spring over, along with using a flatter rear leaf spring (like a chevy pick up or jeep yj).
Spring over will give you better ride and better off road capability. This will be a completely custom setup so if you aren't handy with the wrenches and welder, you are going to have a problem.
You will probably need to work with the driveshafts some. However I've always considered the stock driveshafts to be adequate, so this is a personal opinion. I can't imagine going SOA and NOT having to notch the frame front and rear. However you'll have to look at it.
Research "Trac-bar". Shortened for "traction bar". Basically, with a spring over axle suspension you can have whats called "axle wrap". This is when the axle rotates about its axis. As you can imagine, suspension and driveshafts can get very upset with you about this. So you install a traction bar to prevent this.
The front might have "bump steer" issues. Basically, as the suspension flexes, the front suspension cycles and to keep the wheels pointed forward the position of the steering links has to change. And thus, the steering wheel moves even though the tires continue straight. While this may seem like a major geometry issue (can be), it is more of a nuisance than anything else. A pitman arm with more drop can rectify this problem.
You REALLY have to route your brake lines smart to make sure they don't get jammed up/caught in a tire or something. You will need long brake lines. Just go ahead and accept this. But unlike a coiler vehicle, there really isn't anything to tether the line to. So you have this long, flimsy brake line hanging out, just waiting to get caught on something. People tend to zip tie the line to a shock or use little springs to retract them when the suspension isn't flexed. It really isn't a big deal...until you rip out a line.
But overall spring over is better off road than spring under. On road, if done right, shouldn't be a problem. Currently I'm thinking of flat leafs in a spring over setup for my rear (3 link + panhard for the front). SOA is cheap and provides good performance.
Thanks for the photos. They give some indication of the amount of work required to achieve SOA. Others take the coiler route, and in these parts people get old Rangie classics with their superior 100" chassis and put a series body on it.
Just thought I'd mention that in some parts of the world, those modifications are not legal or need certification. The adaptation used to be fairly common here about 30 years ago. Since then, better solutions have been created. In some cases including the removal of springs altogether.
The trend with competition/winch challenge trucks here is not to raise the vehicle but lower its COG. Articulation is more important than diff clearance inmost cases and in those where it is critical people fit portals and use larger diameter tyres (36"-40" seems normal at the moment).
Thanks for all of the replies and info. I meant to state spring over leaf conversion. The spring over axle gives too much lift for what I am trying to achieve. I only want about 4 inches and it is my understanding the SOA gives about a 7" lift. I am planning on doing it on a 1962 109. It is cheap enough to try and I can always switch to parabolics if I decide I do not like it. I've just heard of the parabolic sagging and uneven problems and also do not think they will give me enough lift even with extended shackles.
Thanks
SOA doesn't have to give you that much lift, Ideally the way it is accomplished is with dearched springs, and in the case of a Land Rover with longer springs. This gives you FAR greater articulation with a modest lift. Usually you alter the front so you can use rear springs on it. If you wanted even better articulation you could look beyond the Land Rover parts bin for longer leaf springs. Land Rover front springs are very short and stiff and do not allow for much articulation. SOA can be a very economical and well performing modification if you plan it out well to begin with.
Parabolics will give you a slight lift initially but so will any new springs, it usually settles out over time. Longer spring shackles will mess with your pinion and caster angles. Why are you looking for lift? A 109 can be fitted with 9.00 16 tires as is, there is plenty of room under there, it works better with a military/1 ton chassis but you can do it on a standard 109 chassis too. that is a ~35" tire with no lift. Your real problem is the pixie stick axle shafts.
Yep. What he said ^^.
And, the addition of helper springs is normally only advocated when you need to carry extra heavy loads or hauling heavy trailers. These days air bags are a better solution that provide greater carrying capacity and are height adjustable (which springs are not).