Looks like easy access... its not! No need to pull fuses or relays. To depressurize the system... the easiest method is to bleed pressure from the schrader valve located on the RHS of engine, found along fuel rail. There will still be residual fuel left in the lines... gravity takes over. We're talking oz. not gal.
You will need two wrenches. Space is a premium on the down side of filter.
For the easiest access/replacement:
1.) Raise vehicle.
2.) Remove wheel.
3.) Remove (or loosen) bracket.
4.) One spanner on filter, one on line.
5.) Loosen the line nut, whilst holding the filter stationary.
6.) Remove filter
6a.) Inspect O-rings on each end of lines. Replace as necessary.
7.) Refit filter ensuring arrow is facing engine side.
8.) Refit bracket.
9.) Refit wheel.
10.) Lower vehicle.
11.) Turn key to run position (engine off) to pressurize system.
12.) Check for leaks.
13.) Run engine.
14.) Check for leaks.
15.) No leaks? Success.
The best way to diagnose fuel pump issues is with a Fuel Pressure Tester. Fuel pressure at the rail (schrader valve fitting) with the engine running should be ~35.534 psi. Engine running vacuum line removed from Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) should be > 40 psi. If not, this could indicate a weak/bad FPR. Otherwise you have either a weak Fuel Pump, clogged fuel filter or a crimped line to/from tank.
Cheers, Joshua
1990 RRC, 3.9L, AUTO "Willow Pond" (Sold)
1996 D1, 4.0L, AUTO "Lucas"
1999 RR, 4.0L, AUTO "Belle" (Sold)