Series IIA Engine Woes

[fbnksrover]

Well, finally hit 20 degrees here in Fairbanks, so I took the Rover out for a drive. Hit about 5 miles down the road, and the engine began to lose power on me. Not sure what it could be. Too cold outside? Fuel pump? Any suggestions on where to start?

[griswald]

Could be many things...was the engine dying or coughing? Then perhaps carb icing or bad points...was the motor ok (revs fine) but seemingly slowing down? Perhaps a sticking brake cyl...we need more information to help.

Best,
Griswald
71 88

[fbnksrover]

Engine started up fine, no issues. Seemed to lose power as I was shifting through the gears. Not really coughing, more of a sputter and finally a shutter. Every time I stopped, I had no issues restarting the engine. Revs fine.

[fbnksrover]

Okay, after more driving around, it seems like the Rover does fine in reverse or second gear, but when I shift to third, it sputters out.

[SafeAirOne]

Sounds like fuel starvaton to me. Fine at low revs, not enough fuel at high revs.

[Manny]

You may want to check your vacuum hoses. I had this happen to me once and I found one of the hoses right at the carb was just loose enough to make the Rover sputtered once I got into third. Best of luck.

[Kiloengineer]

Just remember that most carburation problems are in the ignition. I would make sure that the points and plugs are good first.

[SafeAirOne]

So there you go. You've got the triad of items that make every internal combustion engine go: Fuel, ignition and air. Just check them all and see which one is messing up.

[fbnksrover]

Vacuum hoses appear to be good. Having a hell of a time removing he spark plugs. Tried using the 5/8 spark plug socket, but no luck. Doesn't look to be big enough to turn the plug. Am I using the wrong size?

[tkneese]

Had the exact same issue with mine. Bought it from someone who let it sit for 8 years... Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me also. After putting on a new fuel pump because the p.o. told me it needed one, it still didnt get enough fuel for 3/4th gear (pretty pissed about that but i've heard others talk about the quality of new ones). i installed a generic electric fuel pump and haven't had any issues. I also replaced the rubber fuel line and changed the fuel filters to rule those out before installing the electric pump. good luck!

[mearstrae]

The socket size is 13/16th of an inch. Old cars (and tractors) use these larger plugs.

'95 RRC Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[fbnksrover]

Whew. Thanks for that. Got the spark plugs out, but made a rookie mistake. The wires from the distributor weren't labeled, so now I don't know which wire goes to which spark plug. My green bible says 1342 firing order, but not sure which wire goes where?

[fbnksrover]

7853785478557856

Okay, I attahed some pictures to see if anyone can comment on my handiwork. Engine will turn, but won't catch. I'm going to try to attach a video to see if anyone can identify what may be the problem.

[fbnksrover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUy_NcS58pE&feature=youtu.be

So, here is the link to the video. God forbid it work, because the little guy won't. Here is a list of things I have done to him within the last 24 hours:

- Removed the distributor cap and all of the innards down to the base plate, and then replaced. (I think it was in the correct order, but drawings in the Green Bible weren't exactly clear on how to replace the weights.)

- Changed the spark plugs (AC Delco 45XLS). Set the plug gap to between .75 and .80, so should be okay?

- Replaced the plug wires after I took them out. This may be the problem. Didn't pay attention to the order, so not sure if they were replaced in the correct order, and the Green Bible ain't helping me here, and neither is Google.

- Took the top off the Carburetor (Rochester Model B) simply out of curiosity (couldn't help myself, have a 4 day weekend). I couldn't really check the float level because i don't have a gauge to do that. Looked okay to me. Replaced it and attempted to start it up...fuel sprayed from the carburetor. Wasn't tight enough and I wasn't real clear on how to replace the gasket. Figured out you have to remove the various bits of hardware to do that, but only after I slightly tore the last one I have. Didn't use any hylomar to help with the seal, but not sure if you can do that on the carburetor? Still some drops of fuel leaking, but can't figure out if that's due to the seal or the fuel union.

- Not really sure if the levers on the side of the carburetor are correct, hence the photos.

Currently, not running, but probably nothing major, just some gremlin I can't seem to work out.

Little Pooter is being a mean SOB this week.

[busboy]

You can tell if you have the plug leads on in the correct place. Remove #1 spark plug and rotate the engine with the hand crank slowly bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, you can tell it's the compression stroke by placing you thumb/finger lightly over the spark plug hole and you will feel the pressure releasing. The rotor will be at the #1 position so that lead goes to #1 and the rest follow. Next check your point gap and make sure they are tight, it's crucial that the gap is set correctly. Make sure all the wires are attached to the coil and if you stick the #1 plug on the end of the lead and let it touch the engine you should see a spark at the plug when you crank the engine. If there is a spark reinstall the plug and remove the air intake from the carb. I keep a small squirt bottle that I can fill with gas and a little squirt down the intake of the carb and a crank should start the engine. If it still won't start make sure you have fresh gas. As was already mentioned the engine needs fuel air and ignition at the right moment. You gave it fuel from the squirt bottle, with the air intake removed it is getting air down the carb and you proved it has a spark and compression. Now I did once see where the vacuum advance inside the distributor had broken and jammed the distributor in such a way that the spark was in the wrong place. Look at the vacuum advance where it attaches to the plate under the cap and make sure the attachment is not all bunched up. You could hook up a timing light to #1 plug lead but not everyone has one available to them. Those steps are easy to do and can be done by the side of the road with basic tools.

[busboy]

We posted at the same time, your plug gap should be .030 inch your gap is way too large and that is the problem, points should be .014 to .016 inch.

[fbnksrover]

I should have been more clear. I used the mm (.75 to .80) to set plug gap. I think it is correct, but wasn't real sure what "slight drag" meant from the book. I'm not so sure the point gap is set correctly. I couldn't quite figure it out from the book. I could not figure out how to slacken the gap. All I did was press the side of it to open it up, but then it would spring back. It was the only way I could get the feeler gauge in there. What's the magic trick I'm missing?

[busboy]

To decrease the plug gap very lightly tap the end of the plug on a hard surface to close the gap, it doesn't take much, and to open it I use a feeler gauge and wiggle it open slightly. The gap is correct when the right size feeler will just go in with a slight interference/drag.

[busboy]

Ah sorry you wanted the trick to setting the points and that does sound like you problem. They are critical. I have only ever seen adjustable points but I do believe there are set NON adjustable points available nowadays. To adjust points, key must be OFF and 4th gear selected with the distributor cap off. Rock the vehicle until the points come up on one of the 4 corners of the square cam, if you go too far you can go backwards but then come back forwards again to the set position. This is where the points are set .014 to .016 inch, by loosening the hold down screw with a flat blade screwdriver then use the same flat blade to insert into the notch to slide the points more open or closed. It is difficult to do especially if there is play in the distributor shaft. After you have it set tighten and recheck. It is also important that you inspect the contact surface of the points, they should be smooth as they pit from use and you cannot get them set if there is a large pit mark. They can be filed smooth with a point file or small smooth file. Excessive pitting is caused by a bad condenser, I always replace both when changing points.

[busboy]

One other thing make sure the spring loaded carbon brush is still in the center of the distributor cap and is free to move in and out.

[ArlowCT]

Remember the distributor rotates "anti-clockwise". I have fallen victim to this before.

[fbnksrover]

Okay.

Checked out the spark plug gaps. They seem to be properly gapped. Checked out the points gap on the distributor. It appears to be properly spaced. I have the CB Earth Connector grounded to the base plate screw. I think that is correct. Checked the carbon brush spring. It's there and working. I'm still convinved the plug wires from the distributor are not correctly set to the proper spark plug? The engine starts now, but fires a loud pop regularly, a lot like a backfire or loud, close gunshot. I attached a link to a video if anyone is following the drama.

Here's the result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3GSj0ZN43Q&feature=youtu.be

[busboy]

As Arlow mentioned the distrib rotates anticlockwise it sounds like there is a couple of leads switched 1342 clockwise gives 1243 anticlockwise.

[fbnksrover]

Okay.

Had the leads all out of order. I rearranged them I believe in the right order. The engine started right up, idled for 3-4 minutes, and cut off. I tried to restart, no luck, waited a couple of minutes, and it started up again. I've been through this same cycle twice now. Any suggestions?

[SafeAirOne]

Set the plug gap to between .75 and .80, so should be okay?

Without consulting the book, .75-.80 seems a bit...enormous...for a spark plug gap to me.

EDIT: Nevermind--There was another whole page of posts I missed.

[fbnksrover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3GSj0ZN43Q

Getting better, but still not quite right.

[SafeAirOne]

The engine started right up, idled for 3-4 minutes, and cut off. I tried to restart, no luck, waited a couple of minutes, and it started up again.

When it's NOT starting back up, will it start for a second or two if you squirt a tiny bit of starting fluid down the carb? If so, you have a fuel problem. If not, you have an ignition problem.

[fbnksrover]

Okay. Started right up and idled or about 5 minutes. I did not add anything to it, and it did not seem as if it was going to cut off. I had to turn off the engine before the carbon monoxide alarm activated. One thing though: I had a brand new battery in the rover (less than 30 days old) and it's already discharged. I swapped it out with an older one (maybe 6 months old) and the vehicle started running. Any thoughts on what could have drawn the power from the new battery? It's been kept in a heated garage with the vehicle.

[SafeAirOne]

A bad alternator or regulator (battery not recharging)?

It's time to get a multi-meter and do some basic electrical troubleshooting--Nobody is going to be able to tell you what's wrong with your electrical system over the internet. It'll just be a bunch of guesses, like mine above.

[busboy]

If you have a spare coil try that as a bad coil would do what you are saying and could be your problem, if you don't have one it's always nice to carry a couple of spark plugs and leads even old ones, a coil and condenser. Also some years ago I chased a no start problem on mine, there was no rime or reason to it not starting, I eventually changed the fuel pump and it never did it again.

[fbnksrover]

I found a couple of coils locally, but not sure if they are compatible. Any recommendations on Proline versus Lucas versus something from local big box? I need to pick p a multimeter too.

[busboy]

I'm sure everyone will not agree but to me a 12 volt coil is a 12 volt coil. On the multimeter.. digital or analogue??? they both have their uses but a digital meter might not find an intermittent problem as it "samples" where an analogue reads real time. I have both kinds in the shop but the one I use the most and carry with me is an analogue one.

[I Leak Oil]

Busboy is right...not everyone will agree that a coil is a coil.

The coil needs to have the right internal resistance or you can burn up points very quickly. That's not a rover thing, it's a general automotive points ignition system thing. Look on line as to how a points ignition system works and you will probably find all the reasons to go with it.
The last coil I bought was from NAPA probably 18 years ago. You probably won't notice any difference between the Lucas and Proline units.

[Dietersrover]

You have a lot of great advice here, But I would double check ignition coil and the wire going to it. And a coil is not a coil. 12 volts yes, ohms No. You need a 3 ohm coil.

[SafeAirOne]

Disregard this un-delete-able post.

[fbnksrover]

Okay. Lots of great advice. Here's what I have done:

Replaced and gapped the spark plugs.
Replaced the condenser.
Replaced the ignition coil (found one locally). Checked the reading on the old one and it was about 2-2.5 ohms. Assumed that was low?
Replaced the contact points and gapped them (.15).

I fired the little guy up and nothin. Not a click or a tick from the engine. I checked the battery. The lights are strong, so the battery seems good. Not sure what to check now. Distributor? Alternator? Plug wires?

[SafeAirOne]

Clean battery terminals and clean the other end of the battery ground wire along with the grounding surface that it's attached to. Same for the starter-to-engine grounding strap and the engine-to-chassis grounding strap.

[busboy]

Busboy is right...not everyone will agree that a coil is a coil.

LOL. I meant between brands or makes of coil which was what I thought he was asking, I missed the bit "I'm not sure they are compatible" I know some people have preferences as to what brand they buy.

If you mean it won't crank over now I am beginning to think it may be the ignition switch, and to begin with it was dropping the power in the run position. You can check to see if the turn signals work with the key in the run position. I may be off base and the starter solenoid contacts have just failed because of all the cranking you have done, coincidence?

Did you ever remove a plug and connect the lead then crank the engine with the plug touching ground to see if you were getting a spark? Have you tried squirting a little gas or starting fluid directly into the intake with the hose removed, this will rule out a fuel problem. Like I mentioned earlier I once had a fuel pump that came and went as it pleased.

I just noticed the very next thread is about a bad ignition switch just his wouldn't shut down.

[fbnksrover]

I ordered some new leads from our sponsors just in case. The old ones looked, well, old. When the new leads come in, I'll check for the spark. I'll try some gas in the intake in a few days. I'm still paranoid about the location of number 1 on the distributor cap. I aligned the timing tick mark with the pulley with the manual crankshaft. What I can't figure out is this: There is a brass fitting on the top of my rotor arm with an arrow that points counterclockwise. Is the location of the number 1 where that arrow points or is the location of the number one where the straight portion of the brass top is pointing? I attached a picture to see if anyone can point that out to me, if this makes sense.7859

Although not clear, the arrow is pointing towards the red writing.

[SafeAirOne]

I don't have a distributor on my engine, so I have nothing to compare it to, but something looks odd about the orientation of your distributor and especially the rotor if it is shown pointing to #1 TDC on the compression stroke. IIRC, most of the distributors I've seen have the supply line to the vacuum advance pointing directly aft and the lead to the primary circuit entering the distributor housing directly between the distributor and engine block.

For example:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f47/33903d1343300396-tuned-2-25-carb-choice-acr-su-fitted02.jpg

http://www.lroca.org.nz/clubfiles/image/RobEngine/HenryEngine-09_resize.jpg



I'm sure that a dozen other people who burn gasoline can confirm/refute this or determine whether it's relevant/related or not.

Is the vacuum line at the advance mechanism kinked? Hard to tell by the pic, but in that orientation, I imagine it'd have to be...

OH...and I believe that the arrow just indicates direction of rotation, so the leading edge (where your red writing is) should be the first part of the rotor to go past the terminals on the underside of the distributor cap.

[I Leak Oil]

Disregard this un-delete-able post.

You're too smart for this conversation anyway.....:p

[busboy]

TDC occurs in two spots, the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke, I mentioned earlier that it must be TDC on the compression stroke. THIS is where the #1 plug lead should go where the rotor is at that point. To determine TDC on the compression stroke remove the #1 plug and place your thumb or finger over the hole while bringing the engine to TDC, you will feel the pressure releasing. It is possible to install the distributor 180 deg out and from your picture that is what is wrong.

[tkneese]

You're really close to getting her running just right. The timing sounds a little retarded to me in the video and the pop may be coming from the leads being switched or a faulty lead.

The dist. rotor arm should be pointing to the lead for cylinder 1 at TDC (not the arrow but the middle of the brass fitting should be in line with the contact for cyl 1). If you manually set the timing by rotating the engine and lining the marks up on the engine, make sure the rotor is pointing at the lead for the #1 cylinder (theres a 50% chance that its pointing at #1) before rotating the distributor and setting the timing. On my distributor cylinder 1 lead is at about 2 o'clock (standing on the passenger side). The wires go 1-2-4-3 clockwise around the distributor. Hope this helps, i've gotta go back to troubleshooting my starter, fingers crossed its only a bad electrical connection. I like the nickname for yours... i'm about to call mine "big dump" if things don't start going better soon

[fbnksrover]

I see what you're saying about the distributor orientation based on the two pix. The vic came this way when purchased. Is it something that I need to take off and realign?

[busboy]

While you can position the #1 plug lead almost anywhere by juggling the leads around and rotating the distributor, my concern and that I suspect of Safeairone is that the vacuum advance might be pinched off. It might also be that because the vacuum advance is contacting the engine it might not be possible to time the engine correctly because of not being able to rotate the distributor enough.

[tkneese]

There's some great post on this forum and youtube about setting the timing and troubleshooting common problems with rovers.

I replaced the condenser and points in mine with a pertronix ignition but with those you still have to set the timing correctly and vacuum advance has to be in working order. I hope i'm not talking down to you or mentioning something you've already done but you may want to loosen the clamp at the bottom of the distributor and rotate slightly clockwise. (Dont overtighten! Just firm enough to hold it in place. I had to replace my entire distributor because the previous owner tightened mine down too far and cracked the distributor housing). See if the engine runs faster/smoother. If the timing is too "retarded" it will pop and backfire when you give it gas.

It should idle fine with or without the vacuum advance working. Where the vac advance comes into play is when the engine revs up and advancing the timing is necessary for it to run properly. the higher the revs the more suction coming from the carb which rotates the inside of the distributor clockwise which advances the timing.

[fbnksrover]

No. I appreciate any and all advice. After looking at the two pictures with the distributors and comparing them to mine, it looks like I may need to rotate it a little bit. I've never done it before, so I'll play around with it tonight. I'm going to use the pictures in here as a reference to make sure mine lines up like them. This is my first Rover, and, while frustrating the hell out of me, is kind of fun to tinker with, although my wife does not appreciate that the garage is now an auto shop. I think that I did retard the timing. I started fiddling with the AR screw not really knowing what it was. Any suggestions on how to fiddle that back into place?

[SafeAirOne]

Is there any chance that you have a factory workshop manual? It'll tell you possible causes of just about any engine problem as well as how to repair everything that's wrong. It'll also contain the correct procedure for setting the timing on these engines. If you don't have the Workshop Manual (WSM), I would STRONGLY recommend that you download one of the ones available on the interweb (or purchase a paper copy from our hosts).

Your distributor doesn't necessarily need to look like the pictures, especially if it is (was) working just fine in its current position. I merely intended to point out that the position of your distributor is unusual and could be an indicator that something might be amiss in that department.

Once you get the engine to idle for more than 5 minutes, I would then be concerned about the vacuum line being all kinked up at the "B" nut where it enters the diaphragm chamber. If this is the case, this needs to be corrected or the engine won't run well at higher RPMs as was discussed before:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8489517429_1fbcb66aa3_z.jpg

[Dietersrover]

AR screw has little marks on it. Check the Series II manual.
But I think with 89 or so octane you should be a the third or four line.

Check your Vacuum line, it does looked kinked.

[fbnksrover]

I have a Workshop Manual. It's awesome. Makes tinkering a lot easier. Bad news is, the vacuum line that attaches to the vacuum tube was hanging on by a thread under the screw on fitment. Anyone know where I can find that vacuum line that attaches to the carburetor and distributor at?

[SafeAirOne]

You've got plenty of vacuum line left over.

Now remember that I don't have any vacuum advance on my engine when I write: "If the joint uses a compression fitting, just get a tubing cutter, cut the messed-up end off and use an appropriately-sized compression ferrule to make a good seal. If it's a flared tube, just slide the nut onto the tube and flare the fresh end and throw it back together."

Incidentally, if there was a vacuum leak where the tube was broken, not only will your ignition timing be off an higher RPMs, but the mixture could be off and the engine could run poorly even at lower RPMs, depending on where and how the vacuum is sourced on the carb.

[stomper]

Just go to the local auto parts store and get a new vacuum hose. they have it by the roll. Bring in a piece of your old one so they have the correct diameter, and measure the length so you know how much you need. Mine are just push on barbs that the vacuum hose slides onto.

[SafeAirOne]

Ahh-- That'd make it easy then. I thought it was a copper line.

[Dietersrover]

I used this chap for my Vacuum Line.
https://www.britishvacuumunit.com/

[busboy]

Ahh-- That'd make it easy then. I thought it was a copper line.

Sure looked like copper.

[fbnksrover]

It's definitely copper, and not soft copper. I think that I am going to swithch to a rubber vacuum tubing fabrication.

[I Leak Oil]

It's definitely copper, and not soft copper. I think that I am going to swithch to a rubber vacuum tubing fabrication.

Just cut the copper off with about 3/4" sticking out and buy the rubber line as was suggested. It's cheap and can be had anywhere. I may need to be replaced now and then as it dries and cracks it's well worth it.

[busboy]

If it is a compression/olive fitting which I think it probably is you should be able to buy another olive at a parts store. Many automotive mechanical gauges like oil pressure or diesel fuel pressure use 1/8 inch pipe with an olive for the compression seal.

[fbnksrover]

Okay. So far, I have installed new ignition leads, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new condenser, new points gap. All gaps have been set properly with a feeler gauge (checked, double checked, and triple checked, and maybe some more). And nothing. When I turn the key to start the ignition, all I get is the whir of the starter motor, so I think it must be electrical, or maybe the charge in the battery is too low. I'm going to charge the battery today. Any other suggestions on what else to look at?

[I Leak Oil]

The bendix on your starter may be stuck too. Remove starter, clean and reinstall.

[Dietersrover]

Have you tried starting it with the handle?

[fbnksrover]

Okay.

Finally got him started this morning after I recharged the battery. Now, going to check and see if the battery maintains charge. If not, could be more problems. Still some backfiring popping while engine idles. Have not worked on the idle or mixture, but hopefully that will clear out the popping. Or, could be incorrect ignition lead order. I think it would be easier to find the Holy Grail than to get that correct. That process still has be stumped no matter how many times I read the Green Bible.

[SafeAirOne]

Getting the firing order correct is one of the easiest things you'll ever do to this dead-simple engine:


With the ignition off, and the #1 spark plug removed and your finger over the hole, rotate the engine CLOCKWISE (as viewed from the front of the engine looking back) BY HAND till you feel pressurized air escaping around your finger.

Remove your finger from the hole and place a stiff wire into the hole so that it rests on top of the rising piston as you continue rotating the engine by hand.

Stop rotating the engine when the wire stops being pushed upward by the piston.

Pop off your distributor cap. The contact on the rotor is pointing to approximately where the #1 spark plug wire is located when the cap is installed.

Slap the other wires on the cap in the correct order GOING COUNTER-CLOCKWISE on the distributor cap as viewed from above.

Done.



I'll leave it to you to find the correct firing order.

[fbnksrover]

The little fella has come back to life. Thanks for all the advice and tips on fault finding. Now, the ultimate test comes when I back him out of the garage tonight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6cg7kQEqmQ

[I Leak Oil]

Sweet! Looks like you're making an adjustment to the carb in the video. Is the motor at operating temperature? Run it around a little then adjust the idle and mixture when it's warm.

[busboy]

The little fella has come back to life. Thanks for all the advice and tips on fault finding. Now, the ultimate test comes when I back him out of the garage tonight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6cg7kQEqmQ
Ha! it was just on "vacation" that's all.

[fbnksrover]

Well, looks like Little Pooter may have taken a siesta on me. These are my current symptoms that I need to diagnose:

- Engine starts and idles, but idling is rough and there is an occasional backfire, but less of a pop and more like air.
- Backs out of the garage in reverse, and does not seem to have any issues. However, shift into second gear and virtually no power moving forward. Took about 6 starts and restarts to lurch the rover about 15 feet back into the garage.

I'm going to check all of the vacuum hoses to make sure there are no leaks. Looks like there is a small fuel leak at the carburetor, but not sure where from. I replaced the gasket on the carburetor body, so probably need to recheck that. Timing may also be off? More work to do.

[SafeAirOne]

Disregard this un-delete-able post.

[tkneese]

lack of power, popping when you give her juice sounds like a timing issue to me. let her warm up and keep it idiling, loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor just enough to rotate it (watch out not to get shocked if you have old plug leads), and rotate it either way and you will notice it start to run pretty rough. Find a place where it runs well, for me it was farther towards the counter clockwise direction, just before it begins to run rough. Tighten the clamp back down, but not too hard, just enough to keep the distributor from rotating. Honestly, i would do this before I wasted my time doing anything else. Its pretty amazing how little of a timing change will affect the performance of the engine. also if you haven't checked the gap on the tappets you might want to check that after you get the timing tuned in. i found a good video on youtube for that. i have all the manuals and stuff but it helps me to see a video.



Well, looks like Little Pooter may have taken a siesta on me. These are my current symptoms that I need to diagnose:

- Engine starts and idles, but idling is rough and there is an occasional backfire, but less of a pop and more like air.
- Backs out of the garage in reverse, and does not seem to have any issues. However, shift into second gear and virtually no power moving forward. Took about 6 starts and restarts to lurch the rover about 15 feet back into the garage.

I'm going to check all of the vacuum hoses to make sure there are no leaks. Looks like there is a small fuel leak at the carburetor, but not sure where from. I replaced the gasket on the carburetor body, so probably need to recheck that. Timing may also be off? More work to do.

[I Leak Oil]

Hmmm....If you had another carb I'd suggest swapping it to see if there is any change and I'd bet there would be. When it's running try spraying a little starting fluid ( I mean a little) around some of the gasketed joints to see if the running conditions change temprorarily. This might help isolate any leaks. Try just a little down the carb when it's running also to see if it smooths out at all.
I don't know about a timing issue as a root cause though. If it starts and runs then cuts out and is challenged to restart, doesn't sound like purely a timing issue.