Series IIA Engine Woes

[fbnksrover]

Well, finally hit 20 degrees here in Fairbanks, so I took the Rover out for a drive. Hit about 5 miles down the road, and the engine began to lose power on me. Not sure what it could be. Too cold outside? Fuel pump? Any suggestions on where to start?

[griswald]

Could be many things...was the engine dying or coughing? Then perhaps carb icing or bad points...was the motor ok (revs fine) but seemingly slowing down? Perhaps a sticking brake cyl...we need more information to help.

Best,
Griswald
71 88

[fbnksrover]

Engine started up fine, no issues. Seemed to lose power as I was shifting through the gears. Not really coughing, more of a sputter and finally a shutter. Every time I stopped, I had no issues restarting the engine. Revs fine.

[fbnksrover]

Okay, after more driving around, it seems like the Rover does fine in reverse or second gear, but when I shift to third, it sputters out.

[SafeAirOne]

Sounds like fuel starvaton to me. Fine at low revs, not enough fuel at high revs.

[Manny]

You may want to check your vacuum hoses. I had this happen to me once and I found one of the hoses right at the carb was just loose enough to make the Rover sputtered once I got into third. Best of luck.

[Kiloengineer]

Just remember that most carburation problems are in the ignition. I would make sure that the points and plugs are good first.

[SafeAirOne]

So there you go. You've got the triad of items that make every internal combustion engine go: Fuel, ignition and air. Just check them all and see which one is messing up.

[fbnksrover]

Vacuum hoses appear to be good. Having a hell of a time removing he spark plugs. Tried using the 5/8 spark plug socket, but no luck. Doesn't look to be big enough to turn the plug. Am I using the wrong size?

[tkneese]

Had the exact same issue with mine. Bought it from someone who let it sit for 8 years... Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me also. After putting on a new fuel pump because the p.o. told me it needed one, it still didnt get enough fuel for 3/4th gear (pretty pissed about that but i've heard others talk about the quality of new ones). i installed a generic electric fuel pump and haven't had any issues. I also replaced the rubber fuel line and changed the fuel filters to rule those out before installing the electric pump. good luck!

[mearstrae]

The socket size is 13/16th of an inch. Old cars (and tractors) use these larger plugs.

'95 RRC Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[fbnksrover]

Whew. Thanks for that. Got the spark plugs out, but made a rookie mistake. The wires from the distributor weren't labeled, so now I don't know which wire goes to which spark plug. My green bible says 1342 firing order, but not sure which wire goes where?

[fbnksrover]

Okay, I attahed some pictures to see if anyone can comment on my handiwork. Engine will turn, but won't catch. I'm going to try to attach a video to see if anyone can identify what may be the problem.

[fbnksrover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUy_NcS58pE&feature=youtu.be

So, here is the link to the video. God forbid it work, because the little guy won't. Here is a list of things I have done to him within the last 24 hours:

- Removed the distributor cap and all of the innards down to the base plate, and then replaced. (I think it was in the correct order, but drawings in the Green Bible weren't exactly clear on how to replace the weights.)

- Changed the spark plugs (AC Delco 45XLS). Set the plug gap to between .75 and .80, so should be okay?

- Replaced the plug wires after I took them out. This may be the problem. Didn't pay attention to the order, so not sure if they were replaced in the correct order, and the Green Bible ain't helping me here, and neither is Google.

- Took the top off the Carburetor (Rochester Model B) simply out of curiosity (couldn't help myself, have a 4 day weekend). I couldn't really check the float level because i don't have a gauge to do that. Looked okay to me. Replaced it and attempted to start it up...fuel sprayed from the carburetor. Wasn't tight enough and I wasn't real clear on how to replace the gasket. Figured out you have to remove the various bits of hardware to do that, but only after I slightly tore the last one I have. Didn't use any hylomar to help with the seal, but not sure if you can do that on the carburetor? Still some drops of fuel leaking, but can't figure out if that's due to the seal or the fuel union.

- Not really sure if the levers on the side of the carburetor are correct, hence the photos.

Currently, not running, but probably nothing major, just some gremlin I can't seem to work out.

Little Pooter is being a mean SOB this week.

[busboy]

You can tell if you have the plug leads on in the correct place. Remove #1 spark plug and rotate the engine with the hand crank slowly bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, you can tell it's the compression stroke by placing you thumb/finger lightly over the spark plug hole and you will feel the pressure releasing. The rotor will be at the #1 position so that lead goes to #1 and the rest follow. Next check your point gap and make sure they are tight, it's crucial that the gap is set correctly. Make sure all the wires are attached to the coil and if you stick the #1 plug on the end of the lead and let it touch the engine you should see a spark at the plug when you crank the engine. If there is a spark reinstall the plug and remove the air intake from the carb. I keep a small squirt bottle that I can fill with gas and a little squirt down the intake of the carb and a crank should start the engine. If it still won't start make sure you have fresh gas. As was already mentioned the engine needs fuel air and ignition at the right moment. You gave it fuel from the squirt bottle, with the air intake removed it is getting air down the carb and you proved it has a spark and compression. Now I did once see where the vacuum advance inside the distributor had broken and jammed the distributor in such a way that the spark was in the wrong place. Look at the vacuum advance where it attaches to the plate under the cap and make sure the attachment is not all bunched up. You could hook up a timing light to #1 plug lead but not everyone has one available to them. Those steps are easy to do and can be done by the side of the road with basic tools.