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scott
04-07-2010, 08:58 PM
well i goes by da autozone and picks up a cheap fuel filter. i've two on mine, a nice one just before the weber and the cheapy between the tanks and the electric pump. of course some of the lines were 5/16 and some 1/4" and all looking kind of bad. so i'm replacing the line between the filter and pump and the line between the tank selector valve and the filter with some new 1/4" i have around and the fitting going into the pump is 5/16". i try but just can't get the hose on so back to autozone, no luck, so off to pep boys, they have the fitting. everything tightened up, test drive confirms the need for a filter and now i'm enjoying my beer

amcordo
04-08-2010, 11:26 AM
Unpacked $170.00 in stainless steel bolts that are replacing all of the hardware in the truck!

oestlarsen
04-10-2010, 03:14 PM
The adventure of the broken tranny brake continues. The output flange seal must have been original or 20 years old. It looked nothing like the replacement, had metal sides, and what looked to be leather inside. I could not remove w/out taking the spedometer drive case off -and pounding it out from inside.

New seal on..looks better.

Wander
04-10-2010, 05:51 PM
Re-plumbed the tank that I put in last weekend, replaced the e-pump,replaced the fuel filter, attempted to install my reconditioned seat brackets (please see my other thread and give me some advise) and finally fired her up and drove her around the neighborhood to check for leaks, etc.

73series88
04-11-2010, 05:15 PM
incase you didnt hear i broke a frame horn out on the trails.
limped it back home with rachet straps and some very helpful rover friends.

well
i moved it into the backyard today so i can start tearing it down to replace the bent rotten frame horns.
figure ive sobbed long enough.:confused::rolleyes:
aaron

Wander
04-11-2010, 06:59 PM
Well that stinks, I can only imagine the sick feeling you had when it broke.

Oh well, the build up is the real fun anyway.:thumb-up:

gudjeon
04-11-2010, 07:18 PM
Took it out to find some more old logging railway remnants lost in the woods of time.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/Spring%20Rovering%202010/IMG_1457.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/Spring%20Rovering%202010/IMG_1456.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/Spring%20Rovering%202010/IMG_1454.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/Spring%20Rovering%202010/IMG_1443.jpg

G.G. Sprock
04-11-2010, 07:39 PM
Hmmm, stripped and painted the front of the chassis to my 1965 109SW 2.25 Diesel RHD in my "spare" time. I am starting to see the "turn around" point where I can start bolting stuff back on the frame... one day :-)

bear7343
04-11-2010, 08:10 PM
Fixed the ignition crisis (with help from the old man). Then I took the seats out, floor boards and unbolted the seat box in preperation for next weekends clutch work, then I got a phone call and used the excuse of fishing to prevent more knuckle banging...

siiirhd88
04-11-2010, 09:19 PM
The other day I installed a Weber progressive 2V carb on the 109. It was a used carb I found at the J**p junkyard for $25, already on an adapter that bolted up to the standard 2.25 intake. The truck has a much better top end, but doesn't seem to take the hills as easy as the Rochester. I still have to wire up the electric choke and check the mileage, while I re-jet the old Rochester.

Today, we bought a 2002 Disco II SD with 77K miles to replace the unreliable '96 Disco SE7 with 196K miles.

Bob

TedW
04-12-2010, 08:30 AM
.....on my longitudinal steering tube. What a PITA!

Took me almost two twelve-packs to get through it.

bmohan55
04-13-2010, 09:36 AM
Put on an electric fuel pump (NAPA $53) to combat my vapor lock. Also moved the fuel filter from in front of the carb to the other side of the engine. We'll see....

SafeAirOne
04-13-2010, 12:35 PM
Power-washed my engine bay in preparation for stuffing "new" engine. Cleanest it's been in 6 years!

Two things to note:

1) Leaking oil cooler lines double as a great engine bay preservative and

2) My transmissioin and transfer case are painted silver after all!

utahseries
04-13-2010, 01:27 PM
Bolted my engine and trans together and bolted them into place. Finished connecting clutch linkage, and installed my remote breathers for my axle cases!

rbonnett
04-13-2010, 03:17 PM
Did my routine stuff: fluids check, etc. Checked and set the points and plugs. Adjusted the valves, replaced the leaky valve cover gasket.

When I did the compression check I got (1-4): 155,120,150,145. This was after doing the valve adjustment. I wonder if I have an emerging problem with #2? At idle, pulling the #2 plug wire sounds like it has the same effect that any of the others do, for what that's worth.

I adjusted the timing - which was way off. I am very suspicious of the distributor clamp - see Jeff A's recent article on the DELRC shop day for the details on that.

Anyway, took it for a quick road test - everything seemed as fine as it ever is. Did the one last thing - tightening the distributor clamp bolt snug. See my separate post about the now dead starter :(

Oh yeah - took the insulation out of the soft top, now that Spring is here.

SeriesShorty
04-13-2010, 08:22 PM
I finally made some good progress getting started back on my Series. I've been working on removing the massive amount of wiring that a FFR truck uses, yanking all the 24v parts, etc.

Of course, shipfitters is kicking in a little bit so I figured I might as well remove the seatbox so I can get everything cleaned up before running the new wiring harness. After hours of struggling with rusted bolts, and the reciprocating saw to get the really stubborn ones, the seatbox is finally out. It's so nice to be able to get to all the guts under there and get things cleaned up!

It feels good to have a good reason to be spending more time on here. :)

bear7343
04-17-2010, 07:23 PM
Worked on the clutch (Seats, seat box, floor boards, front left fender and tranny all removed)... to be bolted back up tomorrow...hopefully..... Then it's brakes next weekend....

Master Cylinder Good
Slave Cylinder Good
Throw Bearing appears to be good
Clutch Housing... may have been seized up, popped when I started losening the bolts.

***Les - what is the deal with transmission mounts??? They seem to fail every five years or so... is that your take on it as well???

siiirhd88
04-17-2010, 09:10 PM
Yesterday we drove the wife's V8 SIIA 109 the 435 miles from Pa. to our other home in NC. Today we used the winch to pull several stumps and then loaded up the 109 for a trip to the dump.

Tomorrow I head back to Pa., with a stop on the way to talk Series Rovers.

Bob
'02 Disco II SD
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

mrdoiron
04-17-2010, 10:45 PM
...managed to get a brain cramp trying to wire a replacement hazard switch & flasher light on the dash panel. Gonna take a breather (and beer) and try again tomorrow...

mike

scott
04-18-2010, 09:46 PM
painted the fuel tanks that came back from the cleaners the other day. while at it i painted the rear xmbr on my 88 which i should of done months ago when i cut and welded it back into a serviceable thing. had to pulled off and the hitch and grab handles so i painted them. used the ambi and the 88 and some chain stretch between 'em to hang everything on. now the rear of the 88 looks a lot better. the po gave the truck an earl shive paint job. everything including the galvy trim and caps. so now the rear xmber and the tabs that go up to the tub are grey. the grab handles and hitch are black.

utahseries
04-19-2010, 11:12 AM
Ran the brake pipes on the back axle case, had a new trunnion made for the clutch pedal, coated the inside of the gas tank with POR -15, bolted up the drag link, installed new fuel pump, new distributor, alternator, fuel feed pipe, put the pedal grommets into the footwell, and gave it some overall love ;)

TJR
04-19-2010, 11:31 AM
Welded my fabricated receiver hitch together, Degreased the parking brake lever and assy,, POR-15'd my rear Salisbury.. Not bad considering my wife had company over and I had to sneak away to get it done.

JimCT
04-19-2010, 05:05 PM
built a mount and installed a new 10,500 H2O proof winch on the ambulance.

fishguy
04-19-2010, 05:53 PM
Today the gearbox went back in...propshafts on, parking break bits installed and set then started on the steering.

TJR
04-19-2010, 07:23 PM
built a mount and installed a new 10,500 H2O proof winch on the ambulance.

NICE! :thumb-up: but it's too clean.. so is the fan... ;)

what are the little lamps between the bumperettes? ?

..Talbot

JimCT
04-19-2010, 07:31 PM
I am sure it won't be clean for long, will probably do a bit of olive drab to the black. The small lights are fog lights.

NickDawson
04-20-2010, 05:50 AM
built a mount and installed a new 10,500 H2O proof winch on the ambulance.
Looks great! Love the bumper and mount!

siii8873
04-20-2010, 03:35 PM
Jim,
I have never seen the rubber bump stops before, like them.
Had a failure of my back door latch this weekend. Could not open the door latch jammed in closed position (not locked BTW). Of course the fastners were all corroded and had to chisel off the top onewhich made a mess of the corroded latch box. Have a maintenance free bungee cord holding the door shut now. Timing is not to bad as I already have the parts on the way to convert the rotted door to a tailgate/liftgate thanks to some great people on this forum THANKS!!

martindktm
04-26-2010, 08:14 PM
built a mount and installed a new 10,500 H2O proof winch on the ambulance.


Where's the radiator??? It shoud hide that too shiny fan....

jrd51ox
05-01-2010, 10:47 AM
New bumper, overriders, & tow rings.

scott
05-01-2010, 03:11 PM
did a little painting wheels & grill go tan http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=850754&id=1654636087#!/photo.php?pid=850754&id=1654636087&fbid=1355953392940

NickDawson
05-02-2010, 01:19 PM
Got a lot of tinkering done and wanted to tackle something major - finally replacing the front two shocks. I'd ordered 4 procomps a while ago when I blew out a rear shock.

I was pleasantly surprised that a liberal application of PB Blaster made the process of removing the old shock (front right) much much easier than the rear two.

I was unpleasantly disappointed to discover the procomps (ES 9000) are WAY to big for the front. That may be owed to having a 109 front end, or perhaps it is the springs on the front?

Either way, a good day of Rover work...well any day when it is still running once I am done with it is a good day.

rwollschlager
05-02-2010, 06:32 PM
I was unpleasantly disappointed to discover the procomps (ES 9000) are WAY to big for the front. That may be owed to having a 109 front end, or perhaps it is the springs on the front?



Are you sure you put the rear shocks on the rear and the front ones on the front? did they compress at all?

NickDawson
05-02-2010, 09:33 PM
Are you sure you put the rear shocks on the rear and the front ones on the front? did they compress at all?
You are wise to ask that of me :D
I double checked, all 4 are exactly the same (I kept the boxes).
The ones on the rear did compress a fair amount but did not bottom out. Even compressed fully they would not come close to fitting on the front.

LR Max
05-02-2010, 10:35 PM
I rebuild my Rochester carb and then the SOB caught fire.

So forget my rover. LOL

Lalo88DK
05-03-2010, 12:32 AM
Fitted my newly purchased Roof Rack, it's a DIY (not by me) fitted a ladder too.

Later in the afternoon I also took off and sold the 24 volt winch, a 12 volt winch is going on instead.



http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/Volvo960DK/DSC_0001-4.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/Volvo960DK/DSC_0006-4.jpg

Les Parker
05-03-2010, 08:51 AM
Very sharp looking vehicle !
Very nice backdrop, too.
Thanks for posting

crankin
05-03-2010, 11:01 AM
Steen,
You are doing some great stuff! Very nice rig! Looking through your site...I have quick question...what was the purpose of the "DIY: Rude-Vents (http://www.freewebsite.dk/lalo/DIY%3A+Rude-Vents.php)"

bkreutz
05-03-2010, 11:40 AM
I've been working on mounting a "Tuffy" console in my Series III, I got it from RN, but wasn't satisfied with the mounting kit (in all fairness, it was for a Defender:)) So I made a mount that would enable me to easily remove the box so I could check the oil level in the overdrive. Just finishing up the wiring for the radio. After I'm done and satisfied with the results I could post some pictures of the mount if anyone's interested.

Lalo88DK
05-03-2010, 04:01 PM
Steen,
You are doing some great stuff! Very nice rig! Looking through your site...I have quick question...what was the purpose of the "DIY: Rude-Vents (http://www.freewebsite.dk/lalo/DIY%3A+Rude-Vents.php)"


Thanks

"Rude-Vents" = to Provide defroster air to the front corners of your front door glass just like the Defender-vents. :) But I need to fit bigger hoses to make it work properly :rolleyes:

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?p=30881

crankin
05-03-2010, 07:38 PM
Ah ha! That's a great idea!

SafeAirOne
05-03-2010, 09:55 PM
I took a bunch of these...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/4577216720_2fcb608b3f_o.jpg


...and made them into some of these...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4577216076_63abaf6caa_o.jpg


...and stuck them in here:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4576571995_2c12af1c29_o.jpg

Bostonian1976
05-04-2010, 03:21 PM
I took a bunch of these...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/4577216720_2fcb608b3f_o.jpg


...and made them into some of these...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4577216076_63abaf6caa_o.jpg


...and stuck them in here:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4576571995_2c12af1c29_o.jpg

sweet! Now you just need to make an explosion to make it go up and down...

siiirhd88
05-04-2010, 08:07 PM
Today I finished installing a console box and door panels in my 109. The console box is made of 1X12 boards cut to size. It has two compartments, the upper one a deep compartment to hold bits like the winch remotes. I also installed two cup holders made from 3" ABS drain pipe and flat end caps, and a three plug power port. It is attached to the seat box center access cover, so it just lifts out to check the OD oil level.

The door panels are made from painted 1/4 plywood, covered with vinyl. The upper section has a thin layer of padding under the vinyl.

I also finished the cab control switches for the Warn 8274 winch. The winch is mounted on a Pangolin bumper. Thanks Ike.

I also used the 109 to tow our lawn mower 1/4 mile after it overheated (from mice...) and blew the head.

Bob

'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Cubbybox2.jpg



http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Doorpanel1.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Winchbumper1.jpg

4flattires
05-09-2010, 06:32 PM
I finally got around to unbolting and de-wiring a PO fabricated trailer connector that was mounted through the rear tub. I hope to find a great local welder that can patch up the nice round hole that remains.

That was way back at the start of this thread. Found the welder. Them holes just disappeared!

Thanks Greenmeanie for the lead.

Note to all others. Need alu welding in AZ? I've got a kick @ss welder for ya.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/69Rover/Lrover2001.jpg

After

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/69Rover/Lrover2004.jpg

martindktm
05-09-2010, 09:11 PM
De-rusted, painted, check and rebuilt the rear axle and began to prepare the front one for the same treatment.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S9yo6jVOO1I/AAAAAAAAD0U/oTiS5a_xvWk/s800/PIC_0561.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-asEHB0f7I/AAAAAAAAD30/d5P5MhwRvi0/s800/IMG_0625.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-cqvc4v06I/AAAAAAAAD4w/Ybn5TRFIJKk/s800/IMG_0627.JPG

And hopefully will go thru the all the parts of the truck...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S9ypSVNSWqI/AAAAAAAAD2E/4iXxZCG9olE/s800/PIC_0587.JPG

And install them back on this...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-asSk2AQZI/AAAAAAAAD4A/MWGcN0F44x8/s800/IMG_0613.JPG

But today was an axle day. Still a few to come to complete the rear and the front one.

TJR
05-09-2010, 11:05 PM
What seat backs are those in the 1st pics? They look taller than normal?
...Talbot


Today I finished installing a console box and door panels in my 109. The console box is made of 1X12 boards cut to size. It has two compartments, the upper one a deep compartment to hold bits like the winch remotes. I also installed two cup holders made from 3" ABS drain pipe and flat end caps, and a three plug power port. It is attached to the seat box center access cover, so it just lifts out to check the OD oil level.

The door panels are made from painted 1/4 plywood, covered with vinyl. The upper section has a thin layer of padding under the vinyl.

I also finished the cab control switches for the Warn 8274 winch. The winch is mounted on a Pangolin bumper. Thanks Ike.

I also used the 109 to tow our lawn mower 1/4 mile after it overheated (from mice...) and blew the head.

Bob

'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Cubbybox2.jpg



http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Doorpanel1.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c120/SIIIRHD88/Winchbumper1.jpg

siiirhd88
05-10-2010, 01:21 AM
The seatbacks are the normal seatbacks, nothing special.

Bob

TJR
05-10-2010, 11:21 AM
Thks... My eyes were playing tricks on me..

stomper
05-10-2010, 11:38 AM
Did an oil change and also a transmission oil change. No fun trying to fill the transmission without an oil syringe! Used a length of clear hose and a pointy tipped bottle. It worked, but I wore a lot of oil!

Tim Smith
05-10-2010, 12:31 PM
Wasn't today but last weekend I went for a nice drive with some friends up in Canada.

yFkmq6XIVGo

:thumb-up:

Lalo88DK
05-10-2010, 02:20 PM
After I sold my 12000 pound 24 volt winch, I received and fitted my new 13000 pound 12 volt winch.

http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo264/Laoren88/DSC_0113-1.jpg

73series88
05-10-2010, 06:35 PM
hey
i finally got a rack this weekend.
it's great. i could put the whole family up threre.:thumb-up::thumb-up:
aaron

SafeAirOne
05-10-2010, 09:07 PM
i could put the whole family up threre.:thumb-up::thumb-up:
aaron


Yes you can! Obviously you don't garage your Rover at night. :) ;)

Lalo88DK
05-11-2010, 01:26 AM
hey
i finally got a rack this weekend.
it's great. i could put the whole family up threre.:thumb-up::thumb-up:
aaron

Looks like you have enough room on the first floor. :thumb-up:

Is it seat belts you are able to spot through the side windows in the back. Have you got any pictures of the inside of Series Land Rover, I'd love to see your seating arrangement in the back.

SafeAirOne
05-11-2010, 02:14 AM
Today I put this bit on...
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1374/4598097188_02e10891d8_o.jpg


...and cleaned this bit off:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4598097258_47c745d098_o.jpg

Now I'm just waiting for the cam and crank seals to arrive from our hosts so I can install that timing cover.

scott
05-11-2010, 09:40 AM
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs534.ash1/31324_1366846585263_1654636087_873720_1358370_n.jp g (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=873721&id=1654636087)

drove it for the 1st time

Tim Smith
05-11-2010, 12:01 PM
drove it for the 1st timeHooray! Soon you'll be out on the trails.

SafeAirOne
05-13-2010, 09:03 AM
Painted the right side of the engine block as I won't have access to paint it after the next step (installing the timing cover with the injector pump still mounted).

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1417/4603436821_0a66bda7ae_o.jpg

Also discovered (after 6 years of running this engine) that there is an oil temp sender installed in the oil filter manifold:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1220/4604051834_33fe69b83d_o.jpg

I don't think I need another gauge, but it's nice to know it's there if I want it. I guess the MoD 90s and 110s with 2.5NADs must have had an oil temp gauge installed...

SafeAirOne
05-14-2010, 05:48 AM
drove it for the 1st time


I admit to being jealous of your ambulance. From the distance you took the photo, the truck looks perfect! I hope you're not going to ruin the look with some new paint. :thumb-up: Those rims look a little too flawless on her... :D

SafeAirOne
05-14-2010, 06:02 AM
Today (well yesterday now...) I attached that bit to the front of the block and set that other part on the top. Found the crankshaft timing pulley bad. Cried a little bit, then ordered a new one. :( Waiting for pulley to arrive so I can continue...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/4605731583_57c22ee694_o.jpg

stomper
05-14-2010, 06:17 AM
Is it just me, or to others get a huge thrill about seeing an engine come together with the old being combined with new. beautiful work! Makes me want to learn how to do one myself. (of course the P.O. just rebuilt mine, so that will be a while):thumb-up:

83lee
05-14-2010, 09:06 AM
That white-colored block is looking really fine. I had thought of using a light gray, but am now going to have to reconsider.

What paint is it and how did you prep?

Tim Smith
05-14-2010, 09:36 AM
Considering how much my block leaks, crude black would be a preferred color.
;)

Wander
05-14-2010, 01:28 PM
Got a good laugh out if this, my timming is a little off but I haven't been able to really get to it.

While at the gas station today, after checking the oil I gave the mirco adjuster on my dizzy about an 1/8 a turn to the A (left). Damn if it didn't work! The timming is still a little off but that little adjustment improved it 100%- even the needle on my fuel gauge stopped jumping about!

I laughed a good few minutes going down the road about it.

TJR
05-14-2010, 07:24 PM
Today (well yesterday now...) I attached that bit to the front of the block and set that other part on the top. Found the crankshaft timing pulley bad. Cried a little bit, then ordered a new one. :( Waiting for pulley to arrive so I can continue...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/4605731583_57c22ee694_o.jpg

Very Nice. . It motivates me to get mine reassembled (2.25 petrol) I need a few more parts. ... I assume that your is a diesel w/ that massive pump.

martindktm
05-14-2010, 07:29 PM
Did some parts cleaning and painting this afternoon....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-3mK1XUxCI/AAAAAAAAD6Q/j9n79a5VZT8/s800/IMG_0663.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-3mL2e9CdI/AAAAAAAAD6U/3f1z0K5JM-c/s800/IMG_0664.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-3mKExwCTI/AAAAAAAAD6M/pPCRtiVJ2tU/s800/IMG_0662.JPG

I was now getting bored of cleaning and painting. And my new chassis had nothing bolted on it so I did put the new parabolics on it and my front bumper.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-3mNkAec_I/AAAAAAAAD6c/8Y6A5OPCbV0/s800/IMG_0666.JPG

TJR
05-14-2010, 07:30 PM
Today I put this bit on...
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1374/4598097188_02e10891d8_o.jpg


...and cleaned this bit off:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4598097258_47c745d098_o.jpg

Now I'm just waiting for the cam and crank seals to arrive from our hosts so I can install that timing cover.

looking good.. What oilpump is that? Is that a Genuine pump? ... My '73 series had a different screen arrangment? ..Talbot

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UnDdR4sp6bkVxNZScrIy6cQ2coyoxDMlZiUuyR_dU0c?feat=d irectlink

SafeAirOne
05-14-2010, 08:07 PM
That white-colored block is looking really fine. I had thought of using a light gray, but am now going to have to reconsider.

What paint is it and how did you prep?

Well, it may seem a daring move, painting a Rover engine white, but it was really more of a practical consideration--I'm tired of doing everything by feel. I need to be able to see into the dark recesses of the engine/engine bay at night in the bush using a lousy flashlight. The inner wings are going to get the white treatment too, I think.

Prep work consisted of paying a machine shop wodges of cash to, among many other things, strip the engine down to bare metal. Then I removed any other traces of oil/assembly lube, primed with DupliColor (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html)grey engine primer and sprayed 3 coats of universal white engine enamel on. When everything is done, I'm going to give the white areas another 2 coats of clear gloss engine enamel--That should make it pretty easy to hose off any oil leaks/grease marks, etc.


Talbot...

It's a 2.5NA diesel. The oil pickup screen is probably different than on the 2.25. This Allmakes pump actually came with 2 pickups--One straight and one bent, as pictured. Not sure which application uses the straight one...



Martin...

I sure wish your galv chassis w/parabolics was going under my engine. Looking good!

Wander
05-15-2010, 10:17 AM
The white finish is a good idea Mark. In large marine engine rooms , most things are white or very light colored (CAT yellow, MANN grey) so that any leak can be spotted easily and quickly. They also have the advantage of lighting to help. The idea of painting the engine bay white is a good one-that will allow you to reflect the flashlight beam off the walls to pick up any leak or weeping. Are you going to encase the electrical connections to allow you to hose down the area when it gets dusty?

Any before pics, Martin? The swivel balls came out really nice!

martindktm
05-15-2010, 12:03 PM
When I bought it 2 years ago....was running but the frame was too rotten to drive it...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/SFcd-96lx5I/AAAAAAAAAGg/I-HL-yzs3_c/s800/IMG_0689.JPG

Now...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S9ypTGd6L7I/AAAAAAAAD2I/s9wrnYWaZBY/s800/PIC_0588.JPG

Front axle before...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S9ypRX_-ZjI/AAAAAAAAD2A/y_HY7ACaHig/s800/PIC_0586.JPG

Front axle now...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-3mKExwCTI/AAAAAAAAD6M/pPCRtiVJ2tU/s800/IMG_0662.JPG

Today im removing the radiator to be able to remove the stering relay. I will need to zip-cut the entire area to pull it out...its welded there from the rust....

mongoswede
05-15-2010, 12:22 PM
I picked this 109 up last fall from a local guy. Wish I had seen it a few years ago before buying my S111...but thats all luck and timing I suppose. I had intended to put a new exhaust on it and a new wiring harness and then just drive it. However I started looking it over and found lots of little things that I just could not let go....and of course you start looking...you start finding. :nono: So before I put the new autosparks harness in I want to finish cleaning the inside of the bulkhead. The previous "restorer" (hack) decided to rattle can the inside of the white panels with black....the end result is that the black cheap paint is now flaking off...and you can't see a damn thing inside the truck. So I am addressing that as well. I took some pictures last night of the progress.

here she sits patiently:

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1237/867618102_MrhYa-L.jpg

Engine bay with nasty old harness removed...new Autosparks harness sitting on top.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1243/867618452_3DwGk-L.jpg


progress on inner bulkhead:

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1242/867618418_P6tLt-L.jpg


Interesting use of diamond plate to replace a rusted out section of the bulkhead....pretty lame repair in my mine...the thing is just screwed in place and semi sealed with expanding foam. I removed a lot of creatively used expanding foam yesterday.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1241/867618359_qSMAM-L.jpg

In the above picture you might notice that the transmission tunnel cover looks a little odd...it has an extra piece of tin screwed too it...wonder why thats there:

Ooooh thats why the tunnel cover is (a) too short, and (b) rusted out:....more foam.


http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1244/867618499_Rhn6Z-L.jpg



I noticed that the underseat battery box...while solid and in good condition, was not properly attached to the seat box. There were rivet heads on the seat box but they did not attach to anything inside...so the battery tray wanted to fall out the front.:mad: I drilled all the rivets out and will assemble properly once things are painted.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1240/867618278_4ywqQ-L.jpg

SafeAirOne
05-15-2010, 02:49 PM
Are you going to encase the electrical connections to allow you to hose down the area when it gets dusty?

Though it's not really necessary, I'm going to build a new engine harness using these Tyco AMP circular connectors for the engine-to-chassis connection. Eventually, when my credit card recovers from theis engine overhaul, I'm going to rebuild my entire harness using connectors like these where the wires penetrate the bulkhead, where the wiring goes through the wings, radiator support panel, etc.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4609790926_8a01f5d2bf_o.jpg

mongoswede
05-15-2010, 03:59 PM
The other connectors to look at are the GM Surepack style (think thats what they call them) Look something like this:

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00OCLTRgGqsWcu/Waterproof-Connector-Bosch-1way-2way-3way-4way-6way-.jpg


Though it's not really necessary, I'm going to build a new engine harness using these Tyco AMP circular connectors for the engine-to-chassis connection. Eventually, when my credit card recovers from theis engine overhaul, I'm going to rebuild my entire harness using connectors like these where the wires penetrate the bulkhead, where the wiring goes through the wings, radiator support panel, etc.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4609790926_8a01f5d2bf_o.jpg

Lalo88DK
05-15-2010, 04:13 PM
Changed the position of the seatbelt anchorage.

I also nearly sold my beloved 88" series III :( I need the cash :nono: but must find another way to raise some money. :confused: been there before, and I know it's impossible to live with out my trusty old Leafer.

mrdoiron
05-15-2010, 07:30 PM
...because military vehicles were usually painted immediately & often after rolling off the assembly line. Stripping the military-applied paint often reveals factory paint in exceptionally good condition for its age. So, roverlandpark is giving his vehicle a reverse paint job. Hopefully we'll see some photos soon.

Jac04,

I just picked up a lightweight, seems in good shape, but additional coat(s) it appears...wouldn't mind trying the stripping you mentioned to see if I can reveal something in good shape or not underneath...as I'm thinking about a going for a tan color similar to yours ...dependent on what I find underneath (or not)...... 2 questions :

1. Could you tell me anything about the "stripping process" that allows to reveal orig coats without taking those off also ?

2. Appreciate if you can tell me the color code for you lightweight...and a potential source to get it / how much to order etc... ?

I can send you a private msg if easier also...

many thanks (pic is the new lightweight)...

mike

TJR
05-15-2010, 10:34 PM
Now...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S9ypTGd6L7I/AAAAAAAAD2I/s9wrnYWaZBY/s800/PIC_0588.JPG

..


Looking good.. great , mine 88 was that way way too long.. Talbot
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/Teardown/MVC-024S.jpg

mongoswede
05-15-2010, 11:49 PM
More progress. Got most of the old paint off of the bulkhead and started cleaning the rear cargo area floor. Also removed the rear headliner section which was full of mouse stuff and smelled bad...headliner was in bad shape anyways.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1249/868176722_LEGBH-L.jpg


http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1245/868177356_QZZpj-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1251/868175642_6qHPi-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1250/868176168_ZmwWX-L.jpg

martindktm
05-16-2010, 06:58 AM
TJR Talbot...I hope to finish mine this fall or early next spring...Well I hope....

Yesterday I removed the radiator and the steering relay. What a pain in the a$$ it was...Had to zip-cut the old frame and even after the cut it took me half hour to pull it out....

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-_Y0BUUEXI/AAAAAAAAD7E/H1W9KBTL738/s800/IMG_0682.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-_YyqaQnYI/AAAAAAAAD68/SIEi6duo61Q/s800/IMG_0680.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S-_YzY8vcZI/AAAAAAAAD7A/pmE5miJREiA/s800/IMG_0681.JPG

coltsphan
05-16-2010, 08:28 AM
Kicked the truck in the ass. Can't get it to fire.

vkjar
05-16-2010, 09:07 AM
Kicked it. Towed it. Then slept in it. Ever see a 6'2" guy try and curl up on the bench seat of a 2a.

TJR
05-16-2010, 10:24 PM
Shortend my original frame with the sawzall, Left the 4 pieces at the end of my driveway as "FREE scrap steel", Gone in 3 hrs


http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/OldFrame/20100516011.jpg
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/OldFrame/20100516013.jpg

..Talbot

SafeAirOne
05-16-2010, 10:30 PM
Shortend my original frame with the sawzall, Left the 4 pieces at the end of my driveway as "FREE scrap steel", Gone in 3 hrs


You know...

...the sad thing about looking at those pics is that the chassis you cut up looks like it is in better shape than some parts of my current chassis. :(

TJR
05-16-2010, 11:05 PM
Yeah..I've seen many much worse...It was weak and rusted through in many areas, though not totally rotted. Ive seen articles in LRO mag making worse frames slook good again.. I had no time or desire to restore that one. It would have needed considerable plating to restore the weak areas and new rear x-member

TJR
05-16-2010, 11:24 PM
I finally got some paint work done on my 2.2L block...
POR-15 base, and POR 15 Engine Enamel "Austin Healey Green"

I know it's not original, but I like it 100% more than the pastel green. I saw a pic of Ike;s engine in this color a while back and I was sold. I've go enough paint left over to find some other things to paint with it :-)

Here's some before, after, and a few "along the way" pics... Talbot

Pulled out

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC00621.jpg


http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC06537.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC05794.jpg

Back from the shop
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC06451.jpg


http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511001-1.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511031.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511002.jpg



http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511020.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511008.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC06620.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100425016.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/201005160012.jpg

TJR
05-16-2010, 11:32 PM
Part 2 ... I finally got some paint work done on my 2.2L block...
POR-15 base, and POR 15 Engine Enamel "Austin Healey Green"

I know it's not original, but I like it 100% more than the pastel green. I saw a pic of Ike;s engine in this color a while back and I was sold. I've go enough paint left over to find some other things to paint with it :-)

Here's some before, after, and a few "along the way" pics... Talbot

Continued ,,,,

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/201005160008.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/201005160014.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511001.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511010.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100511024.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516002.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516003.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516016.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516017.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516019.jpg

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/20100516021.jpg

SafeAirOne
05-17-2010, 12:34 AM
Looking good Talbot...

Interesting, the similarities between the 2.25 and the 2.5...

It took me a while to figure out that all the bits in this photo aren't ENGINE parts:


http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/88seriesiii/EB_LR/LR_EngineRelated/DSC06620.jpg

73series88
05-17-2010, 03:37 PM
ok started placing some hellla 500 and 500ff lights up on the rack.
hopefully i can get a set of 550s for the bumper in a few weeks
aaron

Terrys
05-17-2010, 04:52 PM
ok started placing some hellla 500 and 500ff lights up on the rack.
hopefully i can get a set of 550s for the bumper in a few weeks
aaron
Six 55 watt Halogens is going to put a strain on your alternator. I hope you're using relays and running the hots to the battery.

bkreutz
05-17-2010, 06:40 PM
This isn't today, it's actually the finish of a job I started Saturday. I cut the snowplow mount off, amazing that 20 minutes with a stick welder can turn into 3 days with grinders to reverse the process. Pretty beefy mount.

SafeAirOne
05-17-2010, 06:56 PM
Installed brand new crankshaft timing belt pulley to replace the damaged one, installed the new tensioner and new timing belt, timed camshaft and injector pump to the crankshaft:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4617212272_7d671b645d_o.jpg



Then I installed the oil sump and cylinder head that I painted yesterday, installed the lifters, rocker shaft assembly and gapped the rocker arms. Finally I attached the gasket to the valve cover and installed that too. I'd like to have finished up everything today. I wish I could get more than an hour or two at a time so I can wrap this up!!

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4617212198_8d66f3b1e2_o.jpg

gudjeon
05-17-2010, 07:28 PM
Put ser2 door latch assemblies on my ser1. These ser1 door latches are very NLA and now I can lock up with a normal lock and key, not a padlock.:thumb-up:

martindktm
05-17-2010, 09:33 PM
Sunday I did start to remove stuff from the interior.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_H02fhmT_I/AAAAAAAAD8A/5MdqNK6nKhA/s800/IMG_0683.JPG

And today I did install the stering relay in the new chassis. Load of anti-seize whent there...And I did sealed the upper part to keep sand, mud and water from getting in-between the chassis tube and relay. So I will tell you in 35 years from now if its seize again and if it will be easy to remove.


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_H1a1B11nI/AAAAAAAAD8c/gufY3fdZSYQ/s800/IMG_0695.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_H1hb0OHHI/AAAAAAAAD8g/314DoR1OHk0/s800/IMG_0696.JPG

SafeAirOne
05-17-2010, 09:46 PM
Martin--What's that plate with the tow ball on the front of the new chassis? A towbar attach point?

masonater
05-17-2010, 10:11 PM
took the bulkhead off so now its just frame and then it hit me that i have to put it all back together..

mrdoiron
05-17-2010, 10:26 PM
I noticed that tow ball as well... nice add at that stage, seems this little girl is planned as a trailer partner ?

martindktm
05-18-2010, 05:11 AM
SafeAirOne and Mrdoiron....The tow ball was already on the front bumper when I bought the truck. So I let it there. Might be useful and easy to park a trailer in a tight space...?

mrdoiron
05-18-2010, 07:50 AM
I think it'll come in handy ... wish I had one on the Lightweight.

martindktm
05-18-2010, 06:03 PM
Today I when to the auto part store because they can make you any color you whant in a spay can with much better quality paint that what we found in any hardware store. So I did tell the guy to make me a can of bronze green paint for testing. I dont have the equipement and money to make a proffessional paint job so I do with what I can do and afford. I also bought a quality spray can primer and cleaned one of the floor pannel for testing and here's the final result...


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_MSssyh-xI/AAAAAAAAD9I/YRS_VfLZad0/s800/IMG_0698.JPG

And here is the passenger side floor pan compare to the one I did. They where both in the same condition before I touch them.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_MStr243AI/AAAAAAAAD9M/EJZboBTHYX4/s800/IMG_0700.JPG

I will let it dry all night and tomorrow I will test how rugged the finish is. Maybe I will spray paint the entire truck...exept the roof becaus its in perfect shape. I will use the truck in the wood anyway and it won't be a trailer queen. So paint job is not the number one prority. Someday when I may be ritch I will pay someone to do a pro paint job on it...

siii8873
05-19-2010, 05:19 PM
This last weekend i replaced my rotted out back door with a liftgate and tailgate. Also replaced my drivers side door top with a RM. Waiting to install passenger side until I replace my windscreen which is dented and hits passenger side door top. The liftgate /Tailgate parts were obtained from a few people on this forum thanks all.
3262

3263

3264

masonater
05-19-2010, 09:39 PM
powder coated the swivel ball housings, u bolts, spring plates, and various other small parts olive drab after a coat of corrosion resistant primer just for the heck of it. Came out really nice. Also got my 1954 baker forklift running that sat for 15 years so now i can pick my frame up solo and take her outside for one last coal slag blasting. Then its eastwood extreme black time. I cant wait to see it all painted up.

To top my day off i had some new friends join me, 2 baby hawks that fell out of the nest of the roof of my hangar and just hung out all day while i worked on the rover! The mother kept bringing them mice and i got to watch them gobble them right up! very neat.

NickDawson
05-20-2010, 07:12 AM
Today I when to the auto part store because they can make you any color you whant in a spay can with much better quality paint that what we found in any hardware store.

Would love to hear how it holds up - might be a good solution for my top.

bmohan55
05-20-2010, 09:25 AM
To top my day off i had some new friends join me, 2 baby hawks that fell out of the nest of the roof of my hangar and just hung out all day while i worked on the rover! The mother kept bringing them mice and i got to watch them gobble them right up! very neat.

Looks like baby Falcons...you know this is a sign that you should name your rig "the Millennium Falcon "...remember the troublesome Star Wars ship?

http://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/American_Kestrel/id

masonater
05-20-2010, 10:16 AM
I thought they were falcons but some guy told me they were hawks, i stand corrected. I saw they up and flying this morning although they still need some practice.

martindktm
05-20-2010, 11:22 AM
Would love to hear how it holds up - might be a good solution for my top.

Ill keep you updated on this. I have only done one floor panels so far. But what I've learn after painting it is that you need a special primer to paint over aluminum. I did not have that when I did my panel. So maybe it won't hold well. I read that you need aluminum oxide primer. I used standard stuff. I will go back to the auto part store after work tonight and see if they have some and make another test on the other floor panel.

thixon
05-20-2010, 01:51 PM
Looks like baby Falcons...you know this is a sign that you should name your rig "the Millennium Falcon "...remember the troublesome Star Wars ship?

http://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/American_Kestrel/id


Too late. My 9 year old already named my 88 "the falcon." The name came about because when I brought it home, I told my wife "it doesnt look like much, but its got it where it counts." My son realized what I was referencing, and it been the falcon ever since. Too bad its not a driver yet.....

TedW
05-20-2010, 02:25 PM
Ill keep you updated on this. I have only done one floor panels so far. But what I've learn after painting it is that you need a special primer to paint over aluminum. I did not have that when I did my panel. So maybe it won't hold well. I read that you need aluminum oxide primer. I used standard stuff. I will go back to the auto part store after work tonight and see if they have some and make another test on the other floor panel.

Hi Martin:

When painting aluminum you need to use self-etching primer, available at most auto parts stores and marine-supply stores.

Ted

thixon
05-20-2010, 04:00 PM
Hi Martin:

When painting aluminum you need to use self-etching primer, available at most auto parts stores and marine-supply stores.

Ted

Can the etch primer and go with an epoxy primer instead. read the instructions, and top coat within the appropriate window of time.

bkreutz
05-20-2010, 05:35 PM
I use epoxy primer when using a gun, but when I want to rattle can it, I use U-Pol Acid 8 primer, been using it a long while and it works well. (just a piece of advice though, the metal has to be bare to use it, if you spray it over any old paint, the old paint wrinkles up badly, pretty aggressive stuff) you can get it at autobody supply places (or online for about half the price supply places want for it). U-Pol is an English brand, so maybe they're thinking of Rovers when they made this stuff.:D

amcordo
05-20-2010, 07:20 PM
1. Here is a picture of what I did with my rover today that will make some of you drool: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45160657&l=fd71b1ac37&id=12302234

2. Does anyone have a picture of a left hand drive model where the steering column attaches to the support that goes between the bulkhead and the frame? It would be a pic you'll have laying around because I need to see the whole thing without the wing on. ...can't remember how that whole area sets up...

TriedStone
05-20-2010, 09:26 PM
1. Here is a picture of what I did with my rover today that will make some of you drool: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45160657&l=fd71b1ac37&id=12302234

I think I just salivated all over my keyboard:D Have you noticed any warping on the bulkhead?

TriedStone
05-20-2010, 09:40 PM
2. Does anyone have a picture of a left hand drive model where the steering column attaches to the support that goes between the bulkhead and the frame? It would be a pic you'll have laying around because I need to see the whole thing without the wing on. ...can't remember how that whole area sets up...

I have more pic's of this area but I'm running out of storage room on our hosts site. I'm having trouble getting my domain name transfered over to my new site so I can host my own pic's. If you want to send me your email I will send you a few more from different angles.

SafeAirOne
05-20-2010, 10:08 PM
1. Here is a picture of what I did with my rover today that will make some of you drool...


Nicely done!

What are you doing about doorskins? I hear pre-made ones are getting to be hard to find...

SafeAirOne
05-20-2010, 10:21 PM
A few days ago I went at my exhaust manifold with some Naval Jelly (or the Rustoleum equivalent of it) followed by a good wire brushing, till I could see only shiny cast iron. Painted it using some 1500-degree paint. Also painted the engine mounts, alternator mount and injector lines with the regular 500-degree paint:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3337/4625414525_a5a3f25152_o.jpg


Prepped and painted the rest of the engine. Prepping has got to be the worst part of this entire engine overhaul--I honestly despise it!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4626020330_092aeb47bc_o.jpg



End result:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3224/4626020418_ba437bafb9_o.jpg

Now for the tricky part--curing the 1500-degree paint on the exhaust manifold. I need to figure out a time when my wife is at work where I can throw the manifold in our oven for 30 minutes at 300 degrees, let it cool for 30 minutes, then do 30 minutes at 450 and have the whole house smelling normal by the time she gets home...

amcordo
05-21-2010, 04:23 PM
Nicely done!

What are you doing about doorskins? I hear pre-made ones are getting to be hard to find...


I've got all of the original door skins still. I had them chemically dipped with the frames, and then sent the frames on to the galvanizer. I just have to re-wrap the skins around the frames and paint them and I'm good to go!

Just a side note: galvanizing adds considerable weight to the parts.

amcordo
05-21-2010, 04:25 PM
I think I just salivated all over my keyboard:D Have you noticed any warping on the bulkhead?


Nope I did a TON of parts. The only part that warped at all was this dumb little cover that goes over one of the holes in the bulkhead. I'll be able to put it back into shape though. None of the door frames, nor the hood frame warped which makes me very happy. It'll be great to open the hood and see a sturdy frame holding it and the spare above my head while I tool around in the engine bay!

martindktm
05-21-2010, 06:47 PM
Today I did removed my fuel tank from the old frame, sand, clean and painted it. I then installed it on the new frame.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_cXgdi8szI/AAAAAAAAD-g/1cvpE340HCY/s800/IMG_0720.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_cZdeKKE1I/AAAAAAAAD_U/Qwvh2V2GRpg/s800/IMG_0721.JPG

After that I began to remove some body panels. Maybe tomorrow I will remove the roof and the rear tub....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_cXfhwXR8I/AAAAAAAAD-c/NYJwA5lGjhs/s800/IMG_0719.JPG

Martin

mongoswede
05-21-2010, 08:09 PM
Looked up the VIN on my wagon today:

Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: NADA Station wagon
Wheel base: 109in
Engine: 6-cylinder
Model years: 1968-1971
Destination: Export, left-hand drive (LHD)00728Serial numberADesign: Unmodified
Suffix used on SIIA from October 1961 till March 1963, and on SIII from 1971 till 1973
It most certainly does not have a straight six in it anymore though I wondered because the bulkhead looked a little different. Also I think the 4 cylinder that is in there now is the lower compression one. And while removing yet more paint from the engine bay...I noticed that the engine mounts are some sort of sawed material painted black...cant tell if they are wood or some sort of rock hard plastic....definitely not stock....explains why the whole truck vibrates like it does when it runs.

JackIIA
05-21-2010, 09:36 PM
Mark - nice work. you can eat off that engine. :thumb-up:

roverlandpark
05-21-2010, 10:14 PM
This afternoon I reinstalled the flat Smith's heater into my Lightweight. The PO had installed and removed a non-standard heater, but included the original heater as part of the sale. After many different wiring combinations, I finally got the two speed heater switch to work correctly. I know I shouldn't need the heater this time of year, but it was bothering me that it was missing.

roverlandpark
05-21-2010, 10:19 PM
1. Here is a picture of what I did with my rover today that will make some of you drool: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45160657&l=fd71b1ac37&id=12302234

That looks very nice. I'm curious to know how you found the shop that galvanized your parts. I'd like to to go the same route, but have zero experience finding a good shop that is willing to to do this work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

martindktm
05-22-2010, 05:40 PM
Instaled the rear differential and shocks. Then I continued to remove parts from the old frame...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_hRea79wGI/AAAAAAAAD_8/YKiRgzTJN7o/s800/IMG_0726.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_hRfZqNhbI/AAAAAAAAEAA/wxlT1IhvS3A/s800/IMG_0727.JPG

amcordo
05-22-2010, 07:37 PM
That looks very nice. I'm curious to know how you found the shop that galvanized your parts. I'd like to to go the same route, but have zero experience finding a good shop that is willing to to do this work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Many galvanizers will do the parts; I had to have them chemically stripped of paint and rust first at a seperate place. I used Columbus Galvanizing to do mine.

Chemical strip: $315
Some welding: $250
Galvanizing: $290

SeriesShorty
05-22-2010, 08:54 PM
Finally some alone time with my truck. Spent a few hours stripping paint, sanding, and hosing down the bare dash. Almost ready for some fresh paint there and then I can set my new fuse block and start rewiring. Figured I needed to get back at it after so many people hit me up to buy my truck at the neighborhood yard sale a few weeks ago. :o

masonater
05-22-2010, 11:22 PM
separated the wheels from the rubber so i can blast them and give them a nice powder coating. Used a harbor freight tire changer, what a pain. Didn't help it was 85 out today either. I should have it bolted to the floor but i always move stuff around so a pallet and the fork lift to hold it down worked pretty well. I did punch my self in the forehead with the pry bar on the first tire, nice knot to talk about now. Also powder coated the swivel balls (see other thread) and did some coal slag blasting outside before it got way to hot to function. then had some beer to cool me down to top off the day

mongoswede
05-23-2010, 01:29 AM
I removed the old junk hacked up wiring harness from the 109 2A last fall....I did leave the distributor hooked up though so today when I went to do some exhaust work I was able to power the distributor and jump the starter. So today I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds and set to changing the exhaust. I ended up painting the exhaust manifold and cleaning the intake a little. I had to drill out the 3 exhaust manifold holes and retap with a 10-1.50 as the old holes were toast. I also painted all of the exhaust pipes with gray POR 15. Figured I'd see how it holds up on exhaust. The intake and exhaust manifolds are back in place and tomorrow I hope to hang the new pipes and muffler.

SafeAirOne
05-23-2010, 03:56 PM
Mark - nice work. you can eat off that engine. :thumb-up:


Thanks--My only hope is that it stays leak-free for at least 3 weeks. Asking anything more is getting a bit optomistic in a Rover!




Friday, while the wife was at work--Baked the exhaust manifold in the oven to cure the paint. Amazingly, the house didn't smell up and the oven still smells like burned food.

Yesterday and today--Installed intake and exhaust manifolds and engine/chassis ground strap and oil dipstick tube:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4632732951_0ed8305718_o.jpg



On the other side of the engine, installed vacuum pump, injector lines and injectors and fuel pump. I'm holding off on the oil filter manifold till I can fill up the new oil pump chamber with oil to prime it:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4632677213_010f2c7711_o.jpg

martindktm
05-23-2010, 06:20 PM
Removed the rear tub and removed more and more parts....

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_m1c9JCynI/AAAAAAAAEAk/LV5WTTOHu_Q/s800/IMG_0728.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_m1de1bAAI/AAAAAAAAEAo/36HPS86IBM4/s800/IMG_0746.JPG

JackIIA
05-23-2010, 09:45 PM
another bit of a 'redo' on some transmission work of my IIA (but not too bad). i'm getting close to the point where i can assemble blindfolded! still, at least i'll know what any bits are in future oil changes.

mongoswede
05-24-2010, 06:19 AM
2 days, $100 in tools and hardware, hours of aggravation....price of having a quiet rover....moderately priceless to the right person :sly:. Well it was a PITA but I put the new exhaust on....er well its all on except for the muffler hangar which was too much of a pain to put on without a lift. The truck is quiet but the exhaust still needs some alignment before its considered done. I did go the extra mile and painted all the pipes and hangars with POR 15 to see if they will last any longer. I had to redrill and tap the flange on the exhaust header as well and installed nice new 10mm 1.50 pitch exhaust studs. The issue now is that the engine smokes....I suspect it has a lot of ring blow by and its coming out 1 or both of the breathers. So short term I'll have to come up with some better routing for the breathers. Long term its either an engine swap with my good one or a bore, hone, rering...or engine swap to something else. I also started using brake fluid to speed up the paint stripping process. The brake fluid works very well at dissolving the black spray paint while not damaging the original white enamel. Trying to decide on what sort of paint to use on the rover interior. The POR 15 gray is a little too dark I think. Considering using the white Hard coat...or the industrial version of the rust oleum.

Will take some pictures tonight.

mongoswede
05-24-2010, 06:21 AM
Removed the rear tub and removed more and more parts....

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_m1c9JCynI/AAAAAAAAEAk/LV5WTTOHu_Q/s800/IMG_0728.JPG



you are cranking right along on this. Its good to see someone is making progress. :thumb-up:

amcordo
05-24-2010, 07:18 AM
Progress! All that's left is wiring and putting the wings back on. Then maybe doing the doors if I'm in a good mood.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45195522&l=5d7312435d&id=12302234

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45195397&l=0f82d114ab&id=12302234

NickDawson
05-24-2010, 07:24 AM
Progress! All that's left is wiring and putting the wings back on. Then maybe doing the doors if I'm in a good mood.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45195522&l=5d7312435d&id=12302234

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45195397&l=0f82d114ab&id=12302234

Looking good - love those seats, what are they from? Do they take up too much room or are they comfortable?

amcordo
05-24-2010, 09:45 AM
Looking good - love those seats, what are they from? Do they take up too much room or are they comfortable?


The seats are AWESOME. Super comfortable, if a little worn looking. I got them off of a 2003ish GMC Sierra 1500 at a junk yard for $40 total. They came with sliding tracks, but that made them too high in the vehicle. As it stands they're still a little high.

Get ready to make fun of me.

You have to remove the steering wheel to get your legs in and out.

It fits perfect though once you put it back on. And it gives me incentive to remove the wheel every night as an anti-theft measure.

IF you get these seats you could fabricate a way to make them sit lower by cutting into the seat box. I don't have many metal working tools (just a grinder that I've used a TON during this work) so I'm just going to deal with it as is.

The benefits of the seats: they're comfortable as hell, have lumbar support and can lean back, and the big thing is the safety belts both lap, inertia, and buckle are all built into the seat's frame. So now when the aluminum seat box rips out in a crash the seat will come flying with me through the windshield!

Also: there's a ton of aftermarket seat covers for these seats so you can make any color seat match your truck with ease.

mongoswede
05-24-2010, 10:41 AM
the seats i'd like to use in a rover are the Corbeau GTS II's. They cost about $350 new but are nice, reclining, low profile and looks like they would fit nicely in a rover....especially with a rear bulkhead removal bar.


http://www.corbeau.com/product_images/gts_ii/black_cloth/GTSII-20301-SR-L.jpg

crankin
05-24-2010, 11:26 AM
the seats i'd like to use in a rover are the Corbeau GTS II's. They cost about $350 new but are nice, reclining, low profile and looks like they would fit nicely in a rover....especially with a rear bulkhead removal bar.


http://www.corbeau.com/product_images/gts_ii/black_cloth/GTSII-20301-SR-L.jpg

A guy on LRRforums had a set for sell a few years ago...

Installed on a D90
http://www.lrrforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1610&d=1157507352

SafeAirOne
05-24-2010, 03:56 PM
Today: Put the timing front cover on, cleaned and installed starter and alternator. Installed water pump and thermostat housing. Primed oil pump and installed oil filter housing. Other than installing the engine mounts and building a new engine wiring harness, this engine is done.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4636921968_e2a29a4ca0_o.jpg


Tomorrow: Pressure wash inner wings and strip them. Paint inner wings white. Wait for new clutch bearing to show up.

mrdoiron
05-24-2010, 04:50 PM
Thought I'd do my garage floor a favor, and replace the seals on the transmission and the differentials, couple before pics here from today :

Let you know if everything comes back together ok....


mike

mrdoiron
05-24-2010, 04:51 PM
Thought I'd do my garage floor a favor, and replace the seals on the transmission and the differentials, couple before pics here from today :

Let you know if everything comes back together ok....


mike
Few more pics :

masonater
05-24-2010, 09:50 PM
When it got below 90 degrees today I took my axles, springs, and wheels outside for a coal slag blast. Got all the rust, gunk, and undercoating off and they look really nice. I broke down and got the full Waxoyl kit from RN (thanks Greg) and that should be in this week then I can try it out and see what all this hype is about! I now just need to do some fab work on my frame then ill have a waxoyl day. Very excited

mrdoiron
05-24-2010, 10:37 PM
Today: Put the timing front cover on, cleaned and installed starter and alternator. Installed water pump and thermostat housing. Primed oil pump and installed oil filter housing. Other than installing the engine mounts and building a new engine wiring harness, this engine is done.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4636921968_e2a29a4ca0_o.jpg


Tomorrow: Pressure wash inner wings and strip them. Paint inner wings white. Wait for new clutch bearing to show up.

Looking almost too good to put back in to oil & grease up......

does that paint have any resistant porosity to it, in that it could be more easily cleaned afterwards ? Just curious on how hard is to maintain the look.

SafeAirOne
05-24-2010, 10:49 PM
...does that paint have any resistant porosity to it, in that it could be more easily cleaned afterwards ? Just curious on how hard is to maintain the look.


Well, it's 3 coats of somewhat glossy paint, though the metal engine castings are pretty rough. I was going to give it a coat of clear gloss 500 degree paint, but I just don't have the time. I think if I give it a wash every now and then it should stay bright enough to bounce some light around during night troubleshooting.

I need to find some plexiglass wings--For the next month or so, this will be the best-looking part of my Rover! :)


BTW--I'd sure like for you to come over and make my rear pinion seal and transfer case cover not leak too. ;)

mrdoiron
05-24-2010, 11:04 PM
Well, it's 3 coats of somewhat glossy paint, though the metal engine castings are pretty rough. I was going to give it a coat of clear gloss 500 degree paint, but I just don't have the time. I think if I give it a wash every now and then it should stay bright enough to bounce some light around during night troubleshooting.

I need to find some plexiglass wings--For the next month or so, this will be the best-looking part of my Rover! :)


BTW--I'd sure like for you to come over and make my rear pinion seal and transfer case cover not leak too. ;)

Nice,

Got me thinking now about my block... wish there was a way to cheat and paint it without removing...my fear is I'll create new problems pulling it out now that it works well.
I once took a 1938 GE fridge (big motor on top of an ice box really) that hummed along at my summer cottage for years... moved it to get painted, and seals never seated right like orig and it was never the same... my ex wife a bit finicky that way too, move a pillow out of place and unleash the dogs!

cheers

martindktm
05-25-2010, 09:07 AM
No picture but worked on the rear tub, removed lots of plastic filler, removed the tub floor panel to replace it and steel crossmembers. Cut some part of the old chassis. Pictures will come later.

siiirhd88
05-25-2010, 03:47 PM
Drove my 109 350 miles round trip today to deliver some bits. Got to meet Kevkon and Mrs.Tom109, and the 109 was 1000 lbs lighter on the way home. The 2.25 with a Weber averaged 14.6 mpg on highway, interstate and back roads and the truck didn't miss a beat.

It was great seeing Kevin and Toms trucks, and putting some faces to names. It was a good day.

Thanks,
Bob

'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

kevkon
05-25-2010, 04:16 PM
And I got to disassemble the engine Bob dropped off!

LaneRover
05-25-2010, 04:56 PM
Put the faded sweatshirt back over the steering wheel to protect the steering wheel from the SD sun.

Trying to figure out when to best mention that I may be needing new tires to the wife - I think a beer might be in order.

martindktm
05-25-2010, 08:46 PM
Here's the week-end work...

Removed body filler from the side of the tub. The rover will weight at least 150 lbs less...HAd about 1/4" of body filler on both side on the entire lenght of it....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvuSG_y6I/AAAAAAAAECY/eBXXDo09L48/s800/IMG_0759.JPG

Removed the tub floor that was corroded.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvxV5iUbI/AAAAAAAAECk/hN-obqHwSCo/s800/IMG_0762.JPG

Cut the old frame. Only thing left is the bulkhead and engine/gearbox...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvyTKqz4I/AAAAAAAAECo/T4ErXKq9irU/s800/IMG_0764.JPG

old rusty frame bits in the pick-up

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvzmzrFiI/AAAAAAAAECs/Yoxj4euqWRM/s800/IMG_0766.JPG

The new 1/8" tub floor...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvvJX3NVI/AAAAAAAAECc/F-Fe_qB8a7o/s800/IMG_0760.JPG

TJR
05-25-2010, 11:44 PM
Nice work.. Be careful of those rare ,red brake lights lenses ... I have the same ones, but have no spares...TJR

kevkon
05-26-2010, 07:30 AM
And don't forget the sidemarker lights as well. Between both the're worth more than the tub!
Martin, what KTM do you ride?

SafeAirOne
05-26-2010, 10:46 PM
Made a bracket to hold the quick-disconnect circular connector for the engine wiring harness.

Also mocked up the engine wiring harness and found out that I didn't have enough brown wire to replace the non-standard red wires from the alternator to the starter and that I had been sent a tiny white/brown wire instead of the enormous one required for the heater (glow) plugs. :mad:

Hopefully our hosts sell the correct wire by the foot, as they are only a "UPS next-day" away from me, whereas British Wiring will be at least a few days in transit in the mail.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4643334133_b5968691d4_o.jpg

SafeAirOne
05-27-2010, 09:56 PM
Stuffed engine. A real pain to do solo.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4646027585_9338e9dac1_o.jpg

shock
05-28-2010, 07:23 AM
Removed the tub floor that was corroded.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_xvxV5iUbI/AAAAAAAAECk/hN-obqHwSCo/s800/IMG_0762.JPG



Did you pour that cement tub floor in place? And the grass is a nice touch too. ;)

mongoswede
05-28-2010, 07:28 AM
Stuffed engine. A real pain to do solo.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4646027585_9338e9dac1_o.jpg


You should have painted the bulkhead while it was easy to get at too. Also...no interest in converting to LHD?

bmohan55
05-28-2010, 07:41 AM
My thought too...I'm looking forward to really cleaning the engine bay when it comes out.
I'm afraid of contracting shipfitters disease!

mrdoiron
05-28-2010, 12:24 PM
Few more pics :
Got the trans cleaned up, reseals almost done, and ready to go back in...

SafeAirOne
05-28-2010, 12:56 PM
You should have painted the bulkhead while it was easy to get at too. Also...no interest in converting to LHD?


I'm more of a function-over-form type guy. The center bulkhead is pretty well protected paint-wise, though I will rust convert and paint the footwells before I put the wings back on.

There is absolutely no interest in converting it to RHD.

Terrys
05-28-2010, 03:08 PM
Stuffed engine. A real pain to do solo.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4646027585_9338e9dac1_o.jpg
Mark, Not to be critical (and I'm no one to be critical anyway) but seeing the brown rust staining at the bend in your footwells, makes me think this would be the ideal time to put in those nice half-footwells that RN sells. They are much easier to install than the whole one (having done the whole ones on my '65 last fall, and the halfs on my buddy's '72 S3) It's amazing how fast the rust stain goes to swiss on them.

mongoswede
05-28-2010, 05:28 PM
There is absolutely no interest in converting it to RHD.


Wait....you mean converting it from RHD? Unless the picture is backwards it looks rather RHD now?

mongoswede
05-28-2010, 05:30 PM
I picked up an excellent used bulkhead today. A few hours of driving...a very reasonable pile of cash and now its stored away in my living room :thumb-up: I need to get it sand blasted and galvanized. Then paint...and decide if it goes into the 88 series or 88 hybrid.

SafeAirOne
05-28-2010, 08:11 PM
Wait....you mean converting it from RHD? Unless the picture is backwards it looks rather RHD now?


Er...Yeah. That's what I meant. See---All that right-hand driving has got me confused. I'll be back to turning on the windshield wipers every time I change lanes in my wife's Toyota in no time!

SafeAirOne
05-28-2010, 08:18 PM
Mark, Not to be critical (and I'm no one to be critical anyway) but seeing the brown rust staining at the bend in your footwells...


Yeah--That's actually corrosion in the weld area where I patched in a new panel several years ago when I lived in the desert. I thought I'd live there a lot longer, so I admittedly skimped on the paint prep and just gave it the old rustoleum almond treatment. Since moving back to New England my 109 usually takes the winter off, but one year I drove it on our salt-water winter roads and am now paying for it.

I'm going to strip it and rust-convert it, then paint it before I put the wings back on.

NickDawson
05-29-2010, 10:25 AM
Today (so far) I just drove it...knock on wood...its running so well right now.
Took the dog to the farmers market for the first time. She loved having the door tops off. Athough, we went to visit some friends and she decided to jump out, not realizing her leash was tied to the overdrive shifter, did a back flip and her claws did a number on the driver's side paint job. Oh well, funny story to tell.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4649639383_8c3d28383f.jpg

bkreutz
05-30-2010, 02:23 PM
Polished up the turn and stop light lenses. I used Mothers restoration kit but instead of using the "power ball" in a hand drill, I put in the drill press at 500 rpm. The picture shows before and after, the lower line is the "after" (as if one couldn't tell:D)

mongoswede
05-31-2010, 07:20 PM
After a long weekend or work on the 71 SIII I have the chassis rolling on all 4 again. I had taken apart, sanded, painted, and reassembled the leaf spring packs on all 4 corners...WOW the suspension actually moves. I can get a good 6 to 8 inches of deflection out of the rear suspension. When I first got the truck the suspension was so stiff you didn't need shocks and the wheels practically bounced off the ground when you hit a bump. When I get the motor mounts the drive train goes back in.

I will have some photos up in a day or two.

SafeAirOne
05-31-2010, 08:00 PM
I had taken apart, sanded, painted, and reassembled the leaf spring packs on all 4 corners...WOW the suspension actually moves. I can get a good 6 to 8 inches of deflection out of the rear suspension.


Out of curiosity, did you happen to install the low-friction tape between the leafs during reassembly? When it comes time to re-spring, I definitely want to do this.

Copied from Teri Ann's page on optimizing your leaf spring suspension (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/leafSprings.htm):

"Once you have the springs that provide the best dampening for the weight of your vehicle, the next step is to minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic.
This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 degrees F.
The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#76445a24/=7c2j4i)and is part number 76445A24 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#76445a24/=7c2j4i).
You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps in the road."

mongoswede
05-31-2010, 08:02 PM
Out of curiosity, did you happen to install the low-friction tape between the leafs during reassembly? When it comes time to re-spring, I definitely want to do this.

Copied from Teri Ann's page on optomizing your leaf spring suspension (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/leafSprings.htm):



No, but I painted each and every leaf completely with black POR 15 which is both flexible enough to bend with the leaves and and quite slippery. My original plan was to put a thin bead of high pressure assembly lube down the middle of each one prior to assembly....but I didn't have that stuff handy when they went back together.

martindktm
05-31-2010, 09:34 PM
Tonight I tryed to weld some standard aluminum sheet together with an oxygen/acetylen torch. I did try to fill the gap with a third strip of the same material. The 3 aluminum strip did melted but they did not want to fuse together...End up with 3 chunk of molted aluminum that did not welded together. I try on regular aluminum scrap I had before to throw myself on my rear tub.


Someone know the trick to make this work??

badvibes
05-31-2010, 10:41 PM
I'm not a welder but I thought you needed TIG or MIG to weld aluminum. I'm not familiar with oxy/acetylene working on aluminum. I could be wrong.

Jeff

SafeAirOne
05-31-2010, 10:57 PM
I'm not a welder but I thought you needed TIG or MIG to weld aluminum. I'm not familiar with oxy/acetylene working on aluminum. I could be wrong.

Jeff


Sure--I remember using ox/acet it in high school metal shop class to do Aluminum. It kind of went like this: Heat up the aluminum. It's shiny now... Hey, where'd it go?

You really need to practice, practice, practice, practice, practice...

Incidentally Martin, what are you welding on the tub? I'd think that either riveting or bonding would be easier. Lots of folks just bond it.

mongoswede
05-31-2010, 11:41 PM
photos of repaired frame covered with POR15 Silver paint and now bolted to refinished stock springs on stock rover axles. The tires and wheels are pretty ugly but good enough to roll on for now.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310256/885714050_q828X-L.jpg


http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310254/885713801_62fte-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310255/885713913_ucmkw-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310253/885713680_6C3Y8-L.jpg

martindktm
06-01-2010, 08:12 PM
Did you pour that cement tub floor in place? And the grass is a nice touch too. ;)

So tonight I did replace my concrete tub floor with an aluminum one.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TAWpRfavtdI/AAAAAAAAEDc/mCMLDLFYsAw/s800/IMG_0770.JPG

I put over 62 rivet to hold the new sheet in place since I can't spotwel the new one in place. Steel crossmember are at my friend shop for some sandblasting and I will install them later.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TAWpQQmwELI/AAAAAAAAEDU/yqf04vz9ylg/s800/IMG_0769.JPG



For my body welding/fixing questions I did found yesterday on the net "Durafix" and "Alumaloy" stuff to brase aluminum with a simple torch as we do plumbing at home. Type those name in Google and their demo video is pretty amazing. Anyone ever try that stuff?? How it turned out?? How long it last?

TJR
06-01-2010, 09:38 PM
Looking real good!.. That rear X-member look "beefed" up a bit..

How much POR 15 did it take?



photos of repaired frame covered with POR15 Silver paint and now bolted to refinished stock springs on stock rover axles. The tires and wheels are pretty ugly but good enough to roll on for now.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310256/885714050_q828X-L.jpg


http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310254/885713801_62fte-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310255/885713913_ucmkw-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310253/885713680_6C3Y8-L.jpg

mongoswede
06-01-2010, 10:41 PM
Looking real good!.. That rear X-member look "beefed" up a bit..

How much POR 15 did it take?

It took about 1.5 Pints of silver POR to coat the whole frame on the outside. i still would like to fill the frame rails with something or get them waxed. The frame came with a group of parts that I bought and someone else had reinforced the rear bumper. We did have to cut the welds and align it properly as it was crooked.

you can just barely see the gussets in this photo. We also did some repair work and patching other spots on the frame but they are pretty well blended in.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/P5310257/885714169_xixVX-L.jpg



here are a bunch of photos from last fall and winter when we had the frame on the rotisserie and I was cutting off the bad sections, removing rust, straightening parts etc. Also used the spiral sanding pads to clean every square inch of the frame. The only thing I would still like to do is make some rock sliders/side impact protectors and possibly some sort of cage. But If I am going to sell it I'll probably skip the cage.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1181/886980177_CzcQQ-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1183/886982207_STyui-L.jpg

rear bumper underside prior to repair, descale, sanding etc...much uglier then it is now:

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1176/886976080_MUhye-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1179/886978497_soy5Y-L.jpg

This photo is brought you you by PB Blaster:

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1185/886983730_C7FPE-L.jpg

PPE....Eye protection..check, Hearing protection...check, Lung protection...check, Hands free work lamp..check.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1254/886985820_im9nT-L.jpg

mongoswede
06-01-2010, 10:48 PM
also picked up 4 new drive train mounts, 4 shackle bolts, and two shifter boots.

bkreutz
06-05-2010, 10:34 PM
Got my wheels from the powdercoater Friday, then got the new tires mounted and at least the back ones are on.

mongoswede
06-06-2010, 12:36 AM
put the engine/transmission/transfer box back onto the frame today. DAP and Rovers North were both out of series engine mounts so I just went ahead and bought the newer ones intended for a range rover...or maybe a discovery. They are the same height but a little bigger in diameter and the mount studs are also bigger (12 mm). So I drilled all of the mount plates out with a 1/2" drill bit. The mount that goes on the left front of the engine has to be shaved and filed slightly to clear the frame. Otherwise no issues. The other thing I found was that I could not get the engine to drop into place...then I realized that I must have a Series II or IIA frame and I have a Series III drivetrain...so the clutch slave interfered with the reinforcement ribs on the cross member. I quickly fixed this with a grinder and then was able to fit the engine properly. next up...exhaust and brake lines...power steering.

martindktm
06-06-2010, 06:26 AM
Yesterday I did TRY to patch some hole in the rear tub...I won't open a body shop anytime soon :nono:. Im a better mecanics than body fixer...:D

Passenger side for a reference of the damage...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TAqzkB6FIyI/AAAAAAAAED4/F1p7MhwOZQQ/s800/IMG_0786.JPG

And the driver side new damage...primed with zinc oxyde primer. It was my first time using body filler...I wanted to let the rivet there. I will paint it bronze green next week.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TAqzk9ouy0I/AAAAAAAAED8/r9hgOu8gdYg/s800/IMG_0787.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TAqzl5qjt8I/AAAAAAAAEEA/G4kQwKL6LWo/s800/IMG_0788.JPG

Maybe the passenger side will be better since I will now have 3 patchs of experience...At least I won't see the fix while driving it...

jac04
06-06-2010, 07:35 AM
I mounted a skid plate. Not that I'll vever need it:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1942.jpg

LaneRover
06-06-2010, 09:55 AM
Back east for a long week-end, got my '66 88 started up to drive it around. Runs like a champ again - didn't even have to charge the battery!

After driving around awhile I noticed that it should have been registered back in January! Looks like I'll be going to the townhall first thing Monday morning!

Brent

mrdoiron
06-06-2010, 10:21 AM
I mounted a skid plate. Not that I'll vever need it:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1942.jpg
Great job Jeff, I made a much more crude version for my IIa.. the cross member part that is removable is similar also. Of course mine is not galv and clean like this ! Is this your own design, if so any change you have made any dwgs of did you bang out as you went ? Looks really good.

jac04
06-06-2010, 02:07 PM
Is this your own design, if so any change you have made any dwgs of did you bang out as you went ? Looks really good.
Thanks. The only thing that needed to be made were the machined aluminum mounting blocks. All other pieces are Land Rover parts. The first set of blocks wasn't quite right due to accurate measurements being so hard to get. I tweaked the design a little and Greg (G.G. Sprock) made another set that worked great.

scott
06-06-2010, 04:18 PM
removed and refurbished the fuel tank selector valve. put it back in and the ambi fired right up! couple weeks ago switch tanks after emptying one and it died. found that the cork gasket was crumbling and clogged both ports. ahh pleasures of driving a rover that's been sitting awhile. something new will fail every week for the first couple of months

SafeAirOne
06-06-2010, 09:39 PM
THURSDAY: Pulled an all-nighter in an attempt to get the rebuilt engine completely hooked up and ready to go to British by the Sea on Sunday. Failed; Spent 3 precious hours completely disassembling my electrical system while troubleshooting what turned out to be a poorly grouded negative battery cable on my relocated battery.

FRIDAY: Registered the Rover --$27.00. Started the rebuilt engine for the first time ever. Filled the neighborhood with white smoke--Advanced the injector pump timing to make the neighborhood smoke free. Slept for 12 hours as a result of Thursday.

SATURDAY: Test drove the Rover for the first time. Came home immediately when engine temps rose off the charts. Changed back to my old temp sender and found out that temps were OK after all.

SUNDAY: Missed British by the Sea--Not enough break-in/test miles on the new engine to make the 6-hour round trip with confidence. Found injector pump timing is now too advanced--need to retard it to prevent knocking under load.

mongoswede
06-07-2010, 07:14 AM
Only thing I managed to do yesterday was to pull the carb/intake/exhaust manifolds off of the side of the engine. I hung the new headers on the engine to check the fit. Now I need to get new gaskets, finish the head work, swap in a new cam, distributor, and carb.

JackIIA
06-07-2010, 09:57 AM
FRIDAY: Registered the Rover --$27.00. Started the rebuilt engine for the first time ever. Filled the neighborhood with white smoke--Advanced the injector pump timing to make the neighborhood smoke free. Slept for 12 hours as a result of Thursday.



Sounds like a little pain along the way but....REGISTERED!!!!! CONGRATS.

SafeAirOne
06-07-2010, 10:31 AM
Sounds like a little pain along the way but....REGISTERED!!!!! CONGRATS.


Thanks--It's hard to get excited about registering your daily-driver Series Rover. Passing the annual state safety inspection, however, is always exhilarating. In another 3 years it'll be biennial (every 2 years) safety inspections for me!!:thumb-up:

amcordo
06-07-2010, 10:41 AM
Thanks--It's hard to get excited about registering your daily-driver Series Rover. Passing the annual state safety inspection, however, is always exhilarating. In another 3 years it'll be biennial (every 2 years) safety inspections for me!!:thumb-up:


Question: how do you even pass any level of safety inspection in any Series?

SafeAirOne
06-07-2010, 10:47 AM
Question: how do you even pass any level of safety inspection in any Series?

My lawyer advises that I excercise my constitutional rights and decline answering that question... :)

Jim-ME
06-07-2010, 09:04 PM
Mark,
Glad to hear that you are up an running. Congrats. I got a new injector pump installed today plus new bits to hook up a hand throttle. Had a great day.
Jim

SafeAirOne
06-07-2010, 09:50 PM
Mark,
I got a new injector pump installed today plus new bits to hook up a hand throttle. Had a great day.
Jim

Thanks Jim--I put 100 miles on the engine yesterday and another 100 today breaking it in. Only got stopped once for not having a current inspection sticker. :thumb-up:


It sounds like you had a great day!--Have you driven it with the new injector pump yet? Just curious if you notice any differences say, in acceleration or ease of starting or exhaust smelliness or...anything.

Are you going to start mixing in a little biodiesel now that you have a zero-time pump? I'm sure you've seen this lubricity test (http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf) summarized on the GnR site a year or two ago. Very interesting (to me anyhow). Seems that a small amount of biodiesel is the best additive to replace the removed sulfur in modern diesel fuel, according to the test. Probably a subject for a new thread, though...

Jim-ME
06-08-2010, 07:00 AM
I drove my truck from Eliot to Brewer which is about 185 miles. My new pump seems to have more power than the old leaky one but it could just be my imagination. I don't get the diesel smell in the cab anymore but that is probably just because fuel isn't dripping on everything. Unfortunately, I don't have a source of BioD and will continue to run Opti-Lube to make sure everything in the pump gets well lubricated. Thanks for the link. Looking forward to seeing you in July.
Jim

NickDawson
06-12-2010, 04:05 PM
Started the winch install process. Found a $150 mount plate on Amazon that fit the frame horns perfectly. Got it all together and was cranking the bolts when the skies opened up. I'm looking forward to finishing tomorrow, realizing that one thing is wrong, taking it all apart and doing it again :D

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4693746425_0b1a8f9e13.jpg

mongoswede
06-13-2010, 12:07 AM
started putting the new Autosparks harness into the 109 today.

martindktm
06-13-2010, 07:40 PM
Removed some parts on the old chassis...I was at that point this morning...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_m1c9JCynI/AAAAAAAAEAk/LV5WTTOHu_Q/s800/IMG_0728.JPG

And at the end of the day....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm2ZW6NHI/AAAAAAAAEEs/9jtrQC0GDJE/s800/IMG_0790.JPG

First was the gearbox

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm5y-zGXI/AAAAAAAAEE0/h2GvilqLc3Y/s800/IMG_0792.JPG

After that the engine followed. Would do a great boat anchor. The bastard was way more heavy than I thought...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm7iHVbSI/AAAAAAAAEE4/VI6HqYaHN_8/s800/IMG_0793.JPG

After that was the bulkhead

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm9W1TcRI/AAAAAAAAEE8/swzmKyIwoNY/s800/IMG_0794.JPG

And began to dismantle the gearbox for inspections.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm-wCQN9I/AAAAAAAAEFA/UyF-RlFN6Is/s800/IMG_0797.JPG

So thats my day for now. I would have done more if I had someone to help me. I have done all this alone. Had to use some imagination to move the heavy stuff from outside to inside the garage.

Im now tired and taking a few beer...

Martin

mrdoiron
06-13-2010, 10:12 PM
Removed some parts on the old chassis...I was at that point this morning...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/S_m1c9JCynI/AAAAAAAAEAk/LV5WTTOHu_Q/s800/IMG_0728.JPG

And at the end of the day....

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm2ZW6NHI/AAAAAAAAEEs/9jtrQC0GDJE/s800/IMG_0790.JPG

First was the gearbox

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm5y-zGXI/AAAAAAAAEE0/h2GvilqLc3Y/s800/IMG_0792.JPG

After that the engine followed. Would do a great boat anchor. The bastard was way more heavy than I thought...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm7iHVbSI/AAAAAAAAEE4/VI6HqYaHN_8/s800/IMG_0793.JPG

After that was the bulkhead

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm9W1TcRI/AAAAAAAAEE8/swzmKyIwoNY/s800/IMG_0794.JPG

And began to dismantle the gearbox for inspections.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TBVm-wCQN9I/AAAAAAAAEFA/UyF-RlFN6Is/s800/IMG_0797.JPG

So thats my day for now. I would have done more if I had someone to help me. I have done all this alone. Had to use some imagination to move the heavy stuff from outside to inside the garage.

Im now tired and taking a few beer...

Martin

Solid day !

cheers,

SafeAirOne
06-14-2010, 10:47 AM
WOW. Martin's been busy.

I've been putting break-in mileage on my engine. 600 miles as of today. Installed new front turn signal socket to replace the rusted-out original, thus passed safety inspection this morning, so am legal for another year. :cheers:

Note to others ordering new turn signal socket assemblies: Order a new bulb at the same time that you order the socket assembly, because you'll never find a #382 bulb locally! I ended up having to file one of the bayonet lugs off a standard 1057 bulb to get it to work in the socket (the 382 bulbs are single-filament bulbs with offset bayonet lugs). :(

Still aspiring to reply "nothing" to this "What did you [have to] do to your rover today?" thread.

Jim-ME
06-14-2010, 01:25 PM
You should be totally all set for the trip in July. Can't wait!
Jim

LaneRover
06-14-2010, 07:42 PM
martindktm, when I saw the 2nd pics with just the jack stands I was worried that someone had stolen your project!

martindktm
06-14-2010, 08:58 PM
martindktm, when I saw the 2nd pics with just the jack stands I was worried that someone had stolen your project!


HAhaha!!:D

martindktm
06-14-2010, 09:12 PM
Humm Today I went deeper in the gearbox. Worked only a few hours on it. Everything seemed fine till I pulled the shaft from inside.

Looks like the shaft that sit under the input/mainshaft is worn out on one of the machined gear on it. Its the Layshaft cluster...Rover part 576686.

Anyone has one in good condition that they don't need??

Martin

siiirhd88
06-16-2010, 04:05 PM
I've had a spare 2.25 cylinder head at the machine shop for a few weeks for unleaded seats and a valve job. The machinist called today to tell me the head already had hardened exhaust valve seats..... He just wanted new valve seals since everything else was in excellent condition. Hmmm..... This head was off of the wife's SIIA 109 ex-amby, which had under 30K original miles when it was wrecked. I dropped off the seals and took a look at the head. Whoever had installed the hardened seats had left a 1/16" to 1/8" visible flat step where the seat rests on the head. I can't imagine the step would be good for flow, so the machinist is going to smooth out the step and clean up the guide area.

This head is going on my 109, to replace the head that needs valves adjusted every two weeks or so due to valve seat recession.

Tomorrow I install new plugs, wires and coil packs on the '02 Disco II to hopefully solve some damp weather misfires.

Bob
'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

Lalo88DK
06-17-2010, 08:07 AM
Removed the Roof Rack, It will be put back on later this summer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ1wbQkprj8

luckyjoe
06-17-2010, 09:11 AM
Hmmm, about to bolt-up the new exhaust, so I decided I'd pull the original starter to have a look-see while access was easy. Looked great inside, only a little surface rust, even the brushes were plenty tall! Blew out the dust, cleaned-up the copper, sanded the casing a bit, top coat of POR-15 (outer casing). Looks great!

Hope to have everything bolted-up and push the button by Sunday...

txffjim
06-17-2010, 11:24 AM
I finished painting!:)

cachinfool
06-17-2010, 11:20 PM
After replacing both foot wells, door pillars and the transfer case I'm finally getting the insides put back together and in my pile of stuff I came across this, and for the life of me I can't figure it what it is, maybe it was a part that was in a box when I got the truck but I don't know.


http://img.geocaching.com/cache/log/3e442165-3248-4cb1-84d4-36beab1aae37.jpg

greenmeanie
06-18-2010, 12:31 AM
Its a GM clutch cover for one of their cast aluminium bell housings. This coves the lower front of the flywheel. That part has been modified to remove the starter motor opening on the RHS. My guess is it was once part of a Scotty's conversion.

rwollschlager
06-18-2010, 09:51 AM
On Wednesday my scout troop and i drove it through the mickey D's drive thru:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs558.ash1/32522_1497552883942_1387727377_1353758_3533510_n.j pg


And on Thursday I actually drove it for the first time since December, killing of the mosquitoes within a ten mile radius: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs122.snc4/36439_398881536885_646291885_4745145_6956248_n.jpg

-Rob

Jim-ME
06-18-2010, 11:47 AM
Looking excellent Rob!
Jim

NickDawson
06-20-2010, 11:48 AM
Today I rigged up some tailgate "chains" using some rock climbing prusik cord. I'm pretty pleased, it is strong enough to support me sitting on it, although I don't think I'll put that to the test too often :D


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4717229209_e93c7a86a9.jpg

I also got my new brake booster sorted out, and tidied up a few lose ends from other projects.

Tim Smith
06-21-2010, 09:26 AM
Removed the Roof Rack, It will be put back on later this summer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ1wbQkprj8
Cute video. The music kept me thinking it was a magic trick. :D

Lalo88DK
06-21-2010, 03:01 PM
Cute video. The music kept me thinking it was a magic trick.

:p thanks

siiirhd88
06-23-2010, 04:26 PM
I swapped heads on my 109 to a fresh unleaded head yesterday, and found the water pump to be badly leaking. I'm going to clean up an old used spare today, while I wait for a new replacement.

Bob
'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

feildpickedrover
06-23-2010, 08:49 PM
I was running the rover with a hose into a gas can until tonight, just got done scraping the tank clean inside, when i first got it running it ran for 5 min and filled the sediment bowl with crud, so i siphoned and filtered the gas(tried the drain plug but it was so full of 25 year old laquer it was plugged) and tonight i scraped about a pound of rust and old gas, and strandely what looked like mud(go figure) out of it with an old curtain rod, after an hour i sloshed gas around in it, drained it and filled it, ran the truck at idle for an hour and it never plugged:thumb-up: though the trucks backfireing when romped on now, wasnt doing it with the filtered gas from the tank:confused:

mongoswede
06-23-2010, 10:47 PM
http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1262/907689300_feEcD-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1265/907690971_5enuN-L.jpg

Disco motor mounts:

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1261/907688809_dyyi3-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1258/907687946_Ces9S-L.jpg

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1259/907687471_wADpU-L.jpg

quick ugly frame modification to allow a Series III gearbox to fit a Series II frame.

http://crazyswede.smugmug.com/Trucks/Land-Rover/IMG1260/907688411_7wcc5-L.jpg

SGS714
06-23-2010, 11:29 PM
Drove my 71 IIa for the first time after 6 weeks of ownership. For that matter it was the first time I ever drove a Series.

albersj51
06-24-2010, 12:12 AM
Just got some parts in from our hosts, hope to put them on this weekend. I took the hardtop off for the first time on Sunday...that was a bear! Put the HT back on and just finished putting all of the bolts back in place.

Tim Smith
06-24-2010, 05:56 AM
I was running the rover with a hose into a gas can until tonight, just got done scraping the tank clean inside, when i first got it running it ran for 5 min and filled the sediment bowl with crud, so i siphoned and filtered the gas(tried the drain plug but it was so full of 25 year old laquer it was plugged) and tonight i scraped about a pound of rust and old gas, and strandely what looked like mud(go figure) out of it with an old curtain rod, after an hour i sloshed gas around in it, drained it and filled it, ran the truck at idle for an hour and it never plugged:thumb-up: though the trucks backfireing when romped on now, wasnt doing it with the filtered gas from the tank:confused:
Some knowledge passed on to me by another rover enthusiast.

If you still find the tank full of gunk and rust, you can pull the tank again, put a length of chain inside and turn the tank all about to help scrape any other bits that you might not been able to get by hand. Steel on steel won't spark so this is a relatively safe procedure.

Sputnicker
06-24-2010, 10:09 AM
Another low-tech option is to drain and remove the tank, add pea gravel (the kind used to make concrete) and some water and shake the heck out of it. Then rinse it out and do it again until the water runs clear. The gravel is abrasive and leaves a very clean surface. Your back will be sore, but it should solve your sediment issues.

amcordo
06-24-2010, 10:15 AM
Drove my 71 IIa for the first time after 6 weeks of ownership. For that matter it was the first time I ever drove a Series.

Was it all you expected? Terrifying? Fun? Smelly? All of the above? Congrats!

SGS714
06-24-2010, 10:48 AM
Was it all you expected? Terrifying? Fun? Smelly? All of the above? Congrats!

It was a much rougher ride but engine ran smoother and had much more pep than I expected. Of your terms above I would pick "fun". This is my new summer car/truck and came after 13yrs of driving a MGB. I much prefer the Series. Thanks!!

greasyhandsagain
06-24-2010, 01:20 PM
Took my S2 over to the local "real" mechanic, to get a new exhaust system hung. Since Ive had the rover...over ten years...its had this Previous Owner concoction of swivel pipe, hose clamps, tractor muffler, home made hangers.....

Should sound a lot quieter now, with the exhaust all tight and the pipe exiting behind the right tire instead of in front of the left rear!

96 degrees here today....

jac04
06-24-2010, 05:16 PM
I installed a Land Rover work light on the back of my Lightweight.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1982.jpg

bkreutz
06-24-2010, 06:14 PM
I've been doing many things to mine over the past couple of months, now I'm going to drive it for a while as I think about the next step. Probably paint, but I'm going to enjoy it for the summer and maybe make that a winter project. I've got the interior finished off, wheels powder coated and new tires, sorted out the dodgy wiring (got rid of the lamp cord) replaced all the tie rod ends (the old ones were rusted in place, sure steers a lot easier now:D) and re-galvanized the front bumper. Eventually it will be Marine Blue, but as I said, that's on hold for now.

SafeAirOne
06-24-2010, 06:32 PM
I installed a Land Rover work light on the back of my Lightweight.


Isn't that a Hella worklight?

jac04
06-24-2010, 07:39 PM
Isn't that a Hella worklight?
No Hella markings on it. Came in a Genuine Land Rover box:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6081-flood-lamp-assembly.aspx

mrdoiron
06-24-2010, 09:21 PM
I installed a Land Rover work light on the back of my Lightweight.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1982.jpg
This is useful; what do you have it wired to ? A switch on the dash, or actually reverse ?

thx

Nium
06-24-2010, 09:25 PM
I've had the landy up on stands for a couple of weeks now. Started with a brake overhaul and it's progressing into thoughts of chassis galvanizing and renewal.

Took lots of pics of the front end. Took the Warn hubs off and am at the least going to take off the brake plates and powder coat them. Started the day by killing the wasps in the door handle cavities. Found carpenter ants inside the LH door. WTF, carpenter ants?

jac04
06-24-2010, 09:40 PM
This is useful; what do you have it wired to ? A switch on the dash, or actually reverse ?
I have it wired to a switch on the dash.

albersj51
06-24-2010, 11:42 PM
Installed my remote axle breather front and rear...Thanks Les!

SafeAirOne
06-24-2010, 11:52 PM
Installed my remote axle breather front and rear...Thanks Les!

Just curious....Are these essentially hose barbs that are plumbed to a high spot somewhere? I am considering something similar to this.

albersj51
06-25-2010, 12:42 AM
Yup, its basically a threaded fitting with a hose attachment. I believe its designed for wading so you can vent the axle pressure without letting water in. The good thing about it is there is no ball bearing to get stuck forcing the 90wt out the pinion seals and/or hubs. It has 4 crush washers, 2 above the hose and 2 below...very simple install. I got 2 rear (cheaper than the front ones) because they have a longer hose. I have no experience since I drove a 1/4 mile after the install, but I hear they are a nice upgrade and will usually eliminate axle leaks.


Just curious....Are these essentially hose barbs that are plumbed to a high spot somewhere? I am considering something similar to this.

redmondrover
06-25-2010, 01:32 AM
We just received our new Exmoor seats for the 109--2 Trakkers Extreme for the front and 3 Classic High Back for the middle row. Four of the seats have seat heaters because, as they say, "Mamma ain't happy; Ain't nobody happy!"

The 109 is being reassembled now (only 8.5 months after we began the project) and we have been promised that we will drive it to the All British Field Meet in Bellevue, WA on July 24th--just 30 days from today!:thumb-up:

Hit the link for some pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9746804@N06/

jac04
06-25-2010, 07:40 AM
Just curious....Are these essentially hose barbs that are plumbed to a high spot somewhere? I am considering something similar to this.

The remote breathers use a banjo fitting at the axle case. There are only 2 crush washers per fitting. The rear line runs into a hole in the chassis, while the front line normally heads up into the engine compartment.

albersj51
06-25-2010, 09:27 AM
Mine had 4 washers; 2 above the hose and 2 below. These were needed as a spacer on my SIIA. It doesnt matter I guess as long as it fits and works! :thumb-up:


The remote breathers use a banjo fitting at the axle case. There are only 2 crush washers per fitting. The rear line runs into a hole in the chassis, while the front line normally heads up into the engine compartment.

Jim-ME
06-26-2010, 12:25 PM
I changed the oil, greased, topped up the 90W stuff and fixed a leaking front hub. Good day didn't break anything.
Jim

martindktm
06-26-2010, 05:20 PM
Got some part last friday. So I was able to rebuit the front axle and install it on the chassis. Ist just a great feeling to see it on its leg again....

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TCZ5OTmsQYI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/dabNH2l4kKE/s800/IMG_0815.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TCZ5MTd5VWI/AAAAAAAAEHI/eLEmzpgsmPw/s800/IMG_0812.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TCZ5Ndtfa6I/AAAAAAAAEHM/DGb7RZwrsRs/s800/IMG_0813.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wprKvXHKgAQ/TCZ5PubqiaI/AAAAAAAAEHU/ZgI8QSaEAR8/s800/IMG_0816.JPG


Next step is the gearbox. Waiting for some parts from England. So trans and engine sould be next step in the rebuild.

Martin

feildpickedrover
06-26-2010, 08:02 PM
yesterday i went out and tinkered with my points on the rover, it was running kinda rough and missing a bit after my dad decided they were off and adjusted them without a gauge, my feeler gauges are rusted so much i can read the sizes(haven't used them since i was 14, and they sat in the shed since then) so after my grandpa told me they were supposed to be 25 thousands of an inch i remembered my dirt bike was the same and i used to use a matchbook cover for that, so went ahead and did that, put it together and lo and behold it worked, im running great at idle and the scary looking shake was gone from the engine, but it still backfires like crazy at higher rpms(i use the hand throttle on full to start it cold with the crank) and now it starts after a few turns of the handcrank, but, in playing with the points i noticed the distributor is loose, and turned it a bit and now it runs real smooth, but i cant figure out how to tighten it

mrdoiron
06-26-2010, 11:00 PM
So I took the original 16" wheels for my Ser III Lightweight, which were not in very good shape cosmetically, and had them bead-blasted, then since the vote was tied... decided to go with black powder coat - mostly 'future versatility' on vehicle color was the tie breaker. Pictures below show the 3 stages from orig shape, bead blasted, and powder coated...

Now to find some new rubber...

mike

printjunky
06-26-2010, 11:47 PM
Built a little audible continuity tester, and tested every single wire on the front end, in advance of reconnecting the wiring (PO put in the harness, but stopped before hooking anything up), and it turned out that every single circuit not only works, but is the correct color and configuration. Buttoning it up tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

morgant
06-27-2010, 09:02 PM
After a few days of removing, shearing off, and grinding off bolts, plus disconnecting a few wires and windscreen washer hose, I finally have the left fender off!

I initially thought it was going to be about 6 bolts, but it turned out to be more like 16. Looks like it'll need a new mud/splash guard and I'll have to try to stop the spread of galvanic corrosion.

feildpickedrover
06-28-2010, 01:11 AM
I went outside and gave my marker lights another look over, one socket was completely shot, someone tried to rebuild it and failed miserably, that and i needed bulbs for them and didn't have those tiny twist in bulbs, however, i have more of the blade type little bulbs than i care to count, and looking at the socket i noticed its held to the housing by little metal tabs, and figuring it'd be changed anyway, i popped those tabs and cut the rubber boot to slide the socket out of the housing, then i cut a marker light socket (small blade type bulb in a soft rubber socket) from my old chevy pickup and tried to fit it into the hole, it was the perfect size, pressed it in, and grabbed the rubber with needle-nose pliers to pull the seating tabs through(on the chevy they twist in) and they seated nicely, i couldn't get it to fall apart no matter how i tried, and now i can use the more common modern bulb:thumb-up: now i need to modify the other one the same way, however, the housing on that ones rotten, so ill have to butcher one of my spares, which is kinda scary, anyway, i figured this would be a good, cheap alternative to buying whole new housings, and you guys might like it.:D

mongoswede
07-03-2010, 07:38 PM
Put on my new passenger side exit exhaust on my 71 series III project today. I bolted all the pipes together with SS hardware and currently have it strapped to the rear frame. I don't have any sort of hangers yet so its just strapped up with a nylon tie down strap. Next step is to put in Brake lines, get the new bulkhead and breakfast painted, and then the body can be remounted.

Moose
07-03-2010, 10:52 PM
Started the 2.5NA diesel install. The 2.25 petrol is out and sitting on the floor and the diesel has taken up residence in the engine compartment. Bit of a struggle getting it to mate up to the gearbox, but if it was too easy, what fun would it be? Tomorrow we will fab the new motor mounts then hook up all the bits and pieces. No pix today as I forgot the camera at the shop, but will hopefully post some tomorrow along with some varoom varoom noises.

Brett

albersj51
07-05-2010, 11:31 PM
It was a fun long weekend with the rover. Fixed my leaking rear hub, changed the rear differential fluid and, thanks to Gudjeon, installed a bypass filter to stop the darn vapor lock! I'll start her up shortly...let's hope I don't blow myself up! :)

mongoswede
07-05-2010, 11:51 PM
I drove my 109 down the street and back....an adventure in itself given that it has no wiring harness, no lights, a dead battery...etc. the 7:1 compression engine was..uninspiring :D I made it back though...

BackInA88
07-06-2010, 07:30 AM
Killed a nest of hornets living in the read door handle.:D

TedW
07-06-2010, 08:40 AM
I made a bracket to hang it off the front tank outrigger. My OE pump is 40 years old and I feel like I'm on borrowed time with it.

The only annoying feature about this pump (it seems quite robust - and heavy) is the push-on power connectors (see photos). They are prone to loosening, and require a supplied hanger to keep them in place - a little blue loctite helps, too.

This pump (Carter 4070) is highly recommended for Weber carbs, and is a popular choice on various antique and enthusiast sites.

I'll update with my experience with it as time goes on.

bkreutz
07-06-2010, 09:09 AM
I made a bracket to hang it off the front tank outrigger. My OE pump is 40 years old and I feel like I'm on borrowed time with it.

The only annoying feature about this pump (it seems quite robust - and heavy) is the push-on power connectors (see photos). They are prone to loosening, and require a supplied hanger to keep them in place - a little blue loctite helps, too.

This pump (Carter 4070) is highly recommended for Weber carbs, and is a popular choice on various antique and enthusiast sites.

I'll update with my experience with it as time goes on.

I've had good results using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on the rubber boots that hold the electrical connections, keeps them stuck in place and will peel off easily when the need arises.

TedW
07-06-2010, 09:43 AM
I've had good results using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on the rubber boots that hold the electrical connections, keeps them stuck in place and will peel off easily when the need arises.

Great idea! I have a tube handy and will do that tonight. Thanks, bkreutz.