Help! S3 Trans questions.....

[keithg]

So I have my S3 running pretty well now and I just replaced the clutch hydraulics. I bled the system as per the LR instructions but it doesn't seem like it's working correctly. (I've never driven this rig since it didn't run when I bought it.)

The trans will go into gear while the engine isn't running but upon starting it will not go into gear. With the clutch pedal in, I can try to engage any gear and it will start turning the tires while not fully going into gear.

I've replaced the clutch master, slave, flex and steel lines. I adjusted the clutch pedal so it has almost as much travel as the adjuster will allow and the clutch pedal is almost even with the brake pedal. I also replaced the clutch return spring.

My other question pertains to my overdrive. I've never had one before and mine is a Toro. The lever has three positions, overdrive engaged, neutral, and overdrive disengaged. Should it be in neutral or disengaged?

I'd appreciate any guidance you could provide.

[deezgunz]

clutch

I replaced the clutch in a S3 5-bearing engine and it shifted kind of hard at first. The friction plate settled and it shifts great now. Your tranny will shift into gear when the engine is off without the clutch depressed. I suspect the friction plate is stuck so renewing the hydraulic system will not correct this problem. I would replace the friction plate, pressure plate, bearing...a whole clutch job. While your at it replace the rear seal-especially if you find that your bell housing is fouled with oil.

[keithg]

Could that really be the only answer? Replace everything?

Can anyone shed some light on the overdrive question?

[SafeAirOne]

It sounds a bit like the transmission is still spinning (clutch draging) despite the pedal being all the way depressed.

Presumably you can put it in first gear, then start the truck with the clutch depressed and not have it take off on you. You can probably then drive around around in first. What happens when you are moving and shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th?

Did you have the transmission apart from the engine? If so, what was the condition of the pilot bushing? What about the splines on the transmission input shaft and friction disk?

PS: Replacing EVERYTHING generally always fixes things

[stomper]

Your overdrive should be disengaged unless you are cruising in 3rd or 4th gear, and wish to engage it. Depress the clutch and then slide the lever into the engaged position. Same goes for when you wish to disengage it. Neutral is just that. The internals will turn, but no connection to the output end of the overdrive will occur, and it will not provide any forward movement.

[o2batsea]

Neutral is just that. The internals will turn, but no connection to the output end of the overdrive will occur, and it will not provide any forward movement.

Theft deterrent. Leave the OD in N when parked. Anyone trying to steal it will never figure out that it has an OD.

[keithg]

I have it on jack stands so when I start it in gear the tires will turn slightly. If I pull it out of gear with the clutch pedal depressed it will come out of gear but not engage any other gear. The OD was stuck in neutral so that's why I was asking where it should be for normal usage. Also, I'm only getting pressure on the clutch pedal about 2" from the floor.

I've haven't had the trans apart in any way at this point other than the hydraulics.

[keithg]

Oh yeah....I agree...replacing everything usually DOES fix the problem. I'm hoping to avoid that route though.

[jac04]

... I'm only getting pressure on the clutch pedal about 2" from the floor.

At this point, it seems like you still have a hydraulic issue. Either improper adjustment at the master or air still in the lines. The clutch reservoir is very small and can run out of fluid easily during bleeding. I found bleeding the clutch to be very difficult without either 1) someone to keep pouring fluid into the reservoir, or 2) a power bleeder. I used a power bleeder in conjunction with the pedal pumping method. Also, did you make sure to get the pushrod at the slave cylinder properly installed (and make sure that it didn't become unclipped from the fork)?

Can you get the clutch to disengage or give you pressure higher up on the pedal stroke by rapidly pumping the pedal? If so, you have air in the system.

[keithg]

I'll check those items again and let you know....thanks!

[SafeAirOne]

I agree--If you're not gettinng feedback from the clutch pedal till it's 2" from the floor, something ain't right--most likely air in the system. I feel firm resistance in the first inch or two of travel on my SIII.

The only time I had a low pedal was when a faulty slave allowed my fluid to leak out and air to be pumped in by the dry master cylinder. This was followed rather rapidly by no pedal at all.

[snowboarder]

Clutch Adjustment

I've replaced the clutch master, slave, flex and steel lines. I adjusted the clutch pedal so it has almost as much travel as the adjuster will allow and the clutch pedal is almost even with the brake pedal.

I just took a quick look at my SIII workshop manual and the pedal is supposed to be 140mm from the bulkhead in the upright position with 6mm of pedal free play before engaging. I would double check your adjustments and re-bleed the system.

Many years ago I had a clutch master go out the day before leaving on a trip through the Baja. Not able to get a master cylinder quick enough, I pulled the clutch master, cleaned, and re-assembled it, put in all new Castrol GT LMA and adjusted it to spec. It never gave me any further problems. Of course, with all rover trips, I was working most of the night getting the truck ready.

Cheers,

Nick

[keithg]

Well, I was able to spend some time in the garage tonight and re bled the system. It did have some air in the system and I believe I got it all out this time. However, the clutch is still not working. I can only assume that the clutch disc is frozen to the flywheel.

[Terrys]

You may be correct. A metallic bonded friction disc can rust-freeze to the flywheel when left a long time. This may seem a bit harsh, but try it.
Engine off, in gear, 1st or reverse are OK. Someone sit in it with the clutch fully depressed. Now Rock it back and forth, HARD. Get your local rugby team to help.

[keithg]

Well.....as luck would have it I plan to replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, etc. I looked at what our hosts offer but is there another brand I should look at to compare? Is there a HD version?