Intermittent fuel issue - IIA/2.25 petrol/weber 34ICH/mechanical fuel pump

[yorker]

I'd put a sock on the pickup tube, they are usually made of saran and can help filter out water plus the holes are so small they actually help prevent fuel starvation when you tip or go around the corner with low fuel in the tank. If nothing else I'd get a run of the mill fuel sock, cut the metal part off and fix it to the Land Rover pickup tube with mechanic's wire. It is your first line of defence against crap in the fuel system. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from..._nkw=fuel+sock

[cgalpin]

Good advice, thanks.

[J!m]

Good advice so far, but I will chime in a few details I have gleaned over the years (even though my series is now someone else's problem).

Stating at the tank, it looks very clean. Since it is off and clean, get some tank liner stuff. I have used the POR-15 stuff as well as stuff my company sells that is essentially the same stuff.

Next, the pickup. I actually replaced mine with a piece of copper tubing (it doesn't rust!) that I made a bit longer, to reach the last drops of fuel (and tank sludge). The lined tank is critical for the (lack of) sludge part. You don't want any. The screen is not a bad idea, but the sediment bowl does a fair job getting the 'big chunks' out. Make sure your filler neck still has the extension with the screen in it, so you are not adding any dirt to the newly cleaned system...

Another often overlooked detail is the fuel cap. Did you get a new oner? If so, it is a series III one, which is non-vented. Even on series III restorations, the vapor recovery stuff is usually in a land-fill somewhere... You need to drill a 1/8" hole in the inner lining of the cap (where the chain attaches) if you have a new cap. This vents it, and the venting is critical! Non-vented it will create a vacuum and not allow fuel to flow. The vacuum will dissipate over time, so starting it 'cold' is not a problem, but after it has consumed fuel for a while the vacuum comes back...

Now we move to the hoses. I assume you will replace the pickup and gage gaskets (they will leak) but make absolutely sure the hoses for the fuel are tightly fitted and securely clamped. I had a slightly (and I man slightly) loose clamp at the tank pick up and it allowed air in the line. With that tiny leak (fuel didn't even leak out it was so small) the pump had trouble priming and caused fuel starvation problems. I discovered this AFTER I rebuilt my fuel pump...

At the pump, make sure it is mounted securely. Loose bolts cause lower cam action (less pumping) which is a clear problem. Bowl gasket should be clean and soft. Get a new one if needed and be sure it is sealed well (no air leaks!)

Moving up to your in-line filter, it will fill (or not) dependent on the float in the carburettor. When the carb needs fuel, it will be pumped up; when it is full, the float closes the inlet and the filter appears to do noting (like the fuel pump is not pumping). Again, all fittings need to be air tight.

Now to the carb. Webers are like Holley's: easy to set up; however you have to set them up often. Here's a free trick that I had to do fairly often... Pull the air cleaner elbow off the carb.
Get it running and rev the engine from under the hood.
Once up at a high rev, place your hand over the carb inlet and choke it until it is just about stalled (don't let it stall!)
remove hand and let it get back to a smooth idle again.
Repeat above 3-4 times until you are satisfied the idle is smoother and not getting any better.
Adjust idle and idle mix per carb instructions. You usually have to go back-and-forth on this a few times. And make sure you use a tach so you can accurately see what is going on- don't rely on your 'ear' no matter how god it is.

Finally, as the truck sits, the fuel drains back to the tank past the fuel pump. Some take longer than others. When I was driving the truck, chances were it was sitting for several months before I was trying to start it. Before I even tried, I popped the hood and primed the fuel in the carburettor with the priming lever on the fuel pump. You will see the fuel filter fill up and ten no fuel seems to flow after a time. When the fuel stops, the carb is full. NOW start it and it will start quicker and easier.

If hot starting is an issue, you can try to insulate the fuel lines with pipe insulation. Also, re-run the fuel lines away from heat sources as ,much as possible (exhaust, radiator, hot air from radiator etc.). The extra length is not a big deal, as the pump has to overcome the head (height to lift to the carb) and the length is not a huge issue.

[cgalpin]

OK, I decided to pass on any kind of lining/painting of the inside of the tank. I did get a fuel filter sock and wire it on, thanks for that. I then moved on the carb since the problem did not go away. I wish I just hadn't been afraid to open it up because the problem was clear - junk in the main jet. I cleaned it out and it's back to it's old self again.

The reason I don't like to mess with stuff that works, is that invariably it doesn't afterwards My fuel gauge used to be very steady and now it floats, so I assume I didn't put it back in the exact right orientation. Does anyone know what that is, or could it be something else?

Thanks for the advice everyone.

[yorker]

Yeah that is pretty typical of the Weber even with an inline filter you can get the jet plugged. Hopefully the sock will help.