BUMPER LIFTING / TOWING EYE

[stonefox]

Using these rings as designed, you will not have an issue with an original bumper. They aren't recovery points and aren't designed to be. As for the shine, put them on and let mother nature take it's course.

Jason,
what were they designed for,if it wasn't recovery?

[disco2hse]

Lifting and towing. That's why they are called Lifting and Towing rings.

[disco2hse]

Sorry, just being a little facetious :P

They were developed for the MOD for use by the armed services for deployment.

See here, at 5:53.

[eventhorizon]

Not that useless. I have yet to see one break.

Yeah well if one did pull out under load and you where standing near it, you probably would not be around to tell the story!
When the military used them for lifting, they are in stripped down vehicles and the forces applied are vertical (usless for my purpose). Towing doesn't say much either as there isn't that much resistance when towing a vehicle in the tarmac (unlike recovering a vehicle that is bogged).
Recovery straps, shackles, cables and winches are rated for a reason. I'd hate to find out the breaking load of these rings in a recovery situation!

The video doesn't prove much, but it was sure entertaining to watch. Thanks

[greenmeanie]

Yours are home made pig tails and I wouldn't trust them.

On the other hand the Rover parts are 3/8th plate with the D-ring being 3/4dia bar. You do have a weld to throw into the mix but there would have been some sort of quality process attached to that. You then have 2 (Hopefully high grade) 3/8th X 4" bolts through the chassis plus another two shorter ones through the bumper top plate. When pulled the load translates to a moment arm on the ends of the chassis.

Consider that the chassis this is mounted to is made from 14 gauge mild steel, admittedly doubled up round the spring hangers at the front. There is a stiffener plate inside the chassis too which helps prevent crushing but also tends to trap water and muck. This whole area at the front of the chassis is one of the first places to go soft. I would worry less about ratings on the D-rings and more about making sure that part of your chassis is in top condition if you plan to effect high load recoveries.

[eventhorizon]

Yours are home made pig tails and I wouldn't trust them.

On the other hand the Rover parts are 3/8th plate with the D-ring being 3/4dia bar. You do have a weld to throw into the mix but there would have been some sort of quality process attached to that. You then have 2 (Hopefully high grade) 3/8th X 4" bolts through the chassis plus another two shorter ones through the bumper top plate. When pulled the load translates to a moment arm on the ends of the chassis.

Consider that the chassis this is mounted to is made from 14 gauge mild steel, admittedly doubled up round the spring hangers at the front. There is a stiffener plate inside the chassis too which helps prevent crushing but also tends to trap water and muck. This whole area at the front of the chassis is one of the first places to go soft. I would worry less about ratings on the D-rings and more about making sure that part of your chassis is in top condition if you plan to effect high load recoveries.

Thanks, thats great info. I was wondering what to call those. Guess "pigtails" make sense. If they are "home made" the guy was a hell of a fabricator with access to some serious bending machinery and an eye for detail as they are both identical. Not that I trust them for anything else that lashing/ road towing anyways. Assuming the chassis is good nick. What's the best way to get some strong recovery points in while keeping the original bumper? Thanks again

[I Leak Oil]

Jason,
what were they designed for,if it wasn't recovery?

Well, they're too big and too round to be built in church keys so I guess I'll have to side with the parts manual term for them, lifting and towing.

[SafeAirOne]

Well, they're too big and too round to be built in church keys...

I wouldn't be so sure about that:

[I Leak Oil]

I wouldn't be so sure about that:

Nice! Must be from Doug's farm...

[greenmeanie]

Lets look at your requirements:
- Must keep original bumper. That's a shame because Ike builds a REALLY nice bumper that looks OEM but has the revovery eyes welded in. Its thicker material so very, very strong.
- Must used rated parts. See above. They are not rated but Ike's bumpers are very, very strong. Again, they will not be the weak pointin the system.
- You don't like shiny galvy. Ooohhhh dear. All truly wonderfull goodies on a series only com in one shade.

There are many, many ways to add recovery points to your truck but they almost all require some fabrication of new parts or fabrication of mountings. Some options are:
1. Ike at Pangolin 4x4 bumper. Awesome. (You may be picking up on a theme here.)
2. Dare I say it the afore mentioned D-rings. Rover has sold them for decades and while not 'rated' you'll find the internet is not awash with stories of death and maiming from their failure.
3. Any of the screw or bolt on recovery eyes out there. Yes the eye is rated but now you have to secure it. Are you sure that OEM bumper is strong enough? (Hint - NO.)
4. Build a modified spring shackle with a wider web and an extra hole in it to pass a recovery shackle through and put on on each side. Again its not rated, not particulalry convenient to access and you have to be able to fab it up.
5. If you can weld the sky is your limit. Do you trust your welds?
6. Or if you are truly worried about these things you can do the same things as series owners have always done and wrap the towing strap round the spring pivot eye on the front of the chassis. That is going to be strongest because you are pulling directly on one of the strongest parts of the chassis, there are no 'rated' components to fail and no mount to worry about. Just protect your strap from sharp edges and for best effect use a shrt strap to wrap through the spring eyes to spread the load and then a single long strap to the recovery vehcile. Oh, its the cheapest too.

[eventhorizon]

Lets look at your requirements:
- Must keep original bumper. That's a shame because Ike builds a REALLY nice bumper that looks OEM but has the revovery eyes welded in. Its thicker material so very, very strong.
- Must used rated parts. See above. They are not rated but Ike's bumpers are very, very strong. Again, they will not be the weak pointin the system.
- You don't like shiny galvy. Ooohhhh dear. All truly wonderfull goodies on a series only com in one shade.

There are many, many ways to add recovery points to your truck but they almost all require some fabrication of new parts or fabrication of mountings. Some options are:
1. Ike at Pangolin 4x4 bumper. Awesome. (You may be picking up on a theme here.)
2. Dare I say it the afore mentioned D-rings. Rover has sold them for decades and while not 'rated' you'll find the internet is not awash with stories of death and maiming from their failure.
3. Any of the screw or bolt on recovery eyes out there. Yes the eye is rated but now you have to secure it. Are you sure that OEM bumper is strong enough? (Hint - NO.)
4. Build a modified spring shackle with a wider web and an extra hole in it to pass a recovery shackle through and put on on each side. Again its not rated, not particulalry convenient to access and you have to be able to fab it up.
5. If you can weld the sky is your limit. Do you trust your welds?
6. Or if you are truly worried about these things you can do the same things as series owners have always done and wrap the towing strap round the spring pivot eye on the front of the chassis. That is going to be strongest because you are pulling directly on one of the strongest parts of the chassis, there are no 'rated' components to fail and no mount to worry about. Just protect your strap from sharp edges and for best effect use a shrt strap to wrap through the spring eyes to spread the load and then a single long strap to the recovery vehcile. Oh, its the cheapest too.

Yeah Pangoli's bumpers look great and seem to be the tits. I'd very much like one except I'd have to haul it half way round the world to Thailand and then probably pay 200% duty on it.
Option #6 is new to me but make the most sense as a quick solution.
So think I'll go with #6 till' I land a good pile of dough and order one from Ike.
Thanks for the write up.

[disco2hse]

Recovery straps, shackles, cables and winches are rated for a reason. I'd hate to find out the breaking load of these rings in a recovery situation!

Hmmm bit grumpy are we? As I said, I have yet to see one break, but I have seen them bent. There are plenty of rated rings about. Just Google for them.

Even rated components break and sometimes they are stamped as rated but break below that rating. Rating is not a guarantee that something will not break. All stamping will do is tell you when to expect a component to break. In the end, in a recovery situation, you are the controller of the equipment and you need to decide what is going to be safe and what is not, regardless of rating stamps.

The same thing applies to jate rings. I have seen some that are so-called rated but most are not and LR branded rings are not. Essentially they were only ever designed for lifting. Yet they have been used on Land Rovers for decades in recoveries and without issue. Most Land Rover owners would advise using jate rings over other recovery points, yet most are not rated. How would you get round that?

However, rating also shows that prototypes of manufactured components have passed some texts of deformation and breakage. On individual items, those numbers may vary. I have seen some pretty manky so-called rated components but most are good for purpose. On the other hand, for example, I have a Warn rear recovery shackle that fits into a hitch receiver. It is not stamped as rated, but Warn freely admitted when asked, none have ever broken and they don't know when the 2" square lump of galvanised metal would break.

The discussion could go round and round.

The video doesn't prove much, but it was sure entertaining to watch. Thanks

The video was not provided to prove anything The video was intended to answer your question. Towing and -->l i f t i n g<-- rings.

[jac04]

They were developed for the MOD for use by the armed services for deployment.

See here, at 5:53.

The video at 5:53 shows an Air Portable being lifted. This may seem like a technicality, but the Air Portable lifting rings are not the same as the 242139 lifting rings. The Air Portable rings are supposedly forged and are supposed to be used with a proper shackle. 559882 is the part number for the front rings.

[disco2hse]

The video at 5:53 shows an Air Portable being lifted. This may seem like a technicality, but the Air Portable lifting rings are not the same as the 242139 lifting rings. The Air Portable rings are supposedly forged and are supposed to be used with a proper shackle. 559882 is the part number for the front rings.

Good call.

[eventhorizon]

Hmmm bit grumpy are we? As I said, I have yet to see one break, but I have seen them bent. There are plenty of rated rings about. Just Google for them.

Even rated components break and sometimes they are stamped as rated but break below that rating. Rating is not a guarantee that something will not break. All stamping will do is tell you when to expect a component to break. In the end, in a recovery situation, you are the controller of the equipment and you need to decide what is going to be safe and what is not, regardless of rating stamps.

The same thing applies to jate rings. I have seen some that are so-called rated but most are not and LR branded rings are not. Essentially they were only ever designed for lifting. Yet they have been used on Land Rovers for decades in recoveries and without issue. Most Land Rover owners would advise using jate rings over other recovery points, yet most are not rated. How would you get round that?

However, rating also shows that prototypes of manufactured components have passed some texts of deformation and breakage. On individual items, those numbers may vary. I have seen some pretty manky so-called rated components but most are good for purpose. On the other hand, for example, I have a Warn rear recovery shackle that fits into a hitch receiver. It is not stamped as rated, but Warn freely admitted when asked, none have ever broken and they don't know when the 2" square lump of galvanised metal would break.

The discussion could go round and round.



The video was not provided to prove anything The video was intended to answer your question. Towing and -->l i f t i n g<-- rings.

Sorry if you misunderstood mate.I did not mean to come through as anything other than interested on the subject and appreciative for the information. Guess I forgot to put in some smilies to transmit the mood. I just wanted to know the SWL of my equipment, so I don't do something stupid and pull one out doing a simple recovery or something like that. And now I know. I wont be using them for anything other that easy towing and perhaps a lift if I ever need one